Charging house batteries from the tug....

Ondabeach · Senior Member

RE: Charging house batteries from the tug....

aussie_paul · Guru

I want to be able connect the portable solar panel via the Anderson plug that connects to the tug.

Aussie Paul. smile

greyhoundtom · Senior Member

aussie_paul wrote:
I want to be able connect the portable solar panel via the Anderson plug that connects to the tug.
Aussie Paul.

And me, but certainly not at the same time as I have not yet got around to making up an Anderson plug double adaptor. Lol

Ondabeach · Senior Member

In that case Paul you can't have the tug and solar connected at the same time, so go ahead and use your solar through your DC to DC via Anderson plug smile

aussie_paul · Guru

Ondabeach wrote:
In that case Paul you can't have the tug and solar connected at the same time, so go ahead and use your solar through your DC to DC via Anderson plug

Right, that is what I thought. Now, when connecting portable solar to the DC to DC charger via the Anderson plug it does not activate the DC to DC charger. The DC to DC charge specs say input voltage 12.8 to 16 volts.

Awaiting info when I get up in the morning. biggrin

Aussie Paul. smile

-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 8th of September 2015 10:44:06 PM

Cruising Cruze · Guru

Hi Paul

I did not know that you can connect a solar panel to a normal DC-DC charger

Do you have the MATSON 20AMP DC CHARGER SOLAR INPUT ??

They are 3 different ones

a 10 amp DC-DC Matson

a 20 amp DC-DC Ridge Ryder from Super Cheap

and the 20 amp with solar input DC-DC from Matson

Cheers John

-- Edited by Cruising Cruze on Tuesday 8th of September 2015 11:22:32 PM

Ondabeach · Senior Member

No John, Paul has the Ridge Ryder that has no dedicated solar input, but because he will only have either the tug or solar connected at any time it should still work fine as the charger can't tell the difference, it can only sense the input voltage.

Paul, how much sun did you have on the panel at the time? It will need to put more than 12.8v into the input of the charger for it to turn on and it needs 13.4v before it will start charging your van batts. Hook it up and puta meter across the input and see what you've got.

PeterD · Guru

Ondabeach wrote:
No John, Paul has the Ridge Ryder that has no dedicated solar input, but because he will only have either the tug or solar connected at any time it should still work fine as the charger can't tell the difference, it can only sense the input voltage.

If what you say is correct then why did Redarc re-engineer their DC-DC chargers to work on solar using the same input (and not use a second input like the D250S?) I think you should do some more REAL research and give us the REAL facts. I listed the DC-DC chargers that I know will work as solar regulators a page or two back.

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Peter, I'm not interested in one of your pissing contests mate.

Paul, I just went and bought the exact same charger you have as I needed one anyway so I can charge my AGM house batts from the alternator in my bus. The reason the charger isn't switching on is probably because the input voltage coming straight out of your solar panel is too high. There's a way around that though by putting a diode or 2 between the panel and the charger input. I won't be using mine with solar but I'll hook it up the way you're wanting to and test it and let you know how what you'll need.

PeterD · Guru

Steve, diodes will not work. Try again and find out the real reason you can't drive DC-DC chargers with solar panels.

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Paul, I'm ordering some diodes and should have them in a couple of days. The place I buy components from is crazy cheap so once I've got it sorted I'll get your address and post some to you. We just need to drop the voltage down a bit so the charger will start.

greyhoundtom · Senior Member

I'm still in the same boat and still following the various answers to questions asked by Paul.

Considering it's a portable panel being plugged in, and the voltage is supposedly too high for the DC to DC charger to do its job, will it work if you leave the existing regulator on the panel intact.
Or will that stuff up the function of the solar panel regulator if it is plugged into the DC To DC charger?

I seriously think I will need to forget about using the same cable and plug as used to plug in the tug to the van while driving, and run an additional cable from the van battery just for the portable solar panel.

This is becoming just to damn complicated. :(

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Tom, if you have a solar controller at your disposal then the best thing to do is to have a separate cable and plug for your panel. You could try plugging the controller into the DC to DC charger, it can't hurt anything, but I doubt that it'll work and if it does it won't be as efficient.

As far as I know Paul doesn't have a spare solar controller, just the Ridge Ryder 20 amp DC to DC charger, which is why I'm suggesting he use diodes to drop the input voltage. It's not as efficient as using a separate solar controller but it will work, he'll just lose a few watts.

greyhoundtom · Senior Member

Thank Steve,

I will do that as for me it's obviously the simplest and most efficient way out to keep the two separate. I was just trying to avoid a little bit of extra work by using the same cable. Lol

Cheers,
Tom

Cruising Cruze · Guru

Wow the things we still learn
Just a pleasure reading this topic
Thanks for all of you involved in this topic

Cheers John

aussie_paul · Guru

Thanks everyone, I thought that the higher voltage from the panel might be the case. I do have a spare solar controller, the one that actually came mounted on the portable panels. We are hoping to get away tomorrow for the Dandenong, Yarra Valley area for 10 days. Eril wants to do the Spring gardening thing!!

I also have several largish diodes as well. The van changes from last trip are the 200 watt solar panel along with the DC to DC charger and much heavier wiring. So, I will take the controller and diodes and have a bit of a play with them.

Aussie Paul. smile

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Nice one Paul, the Yarra should be pretty this time of year... still pretty cool too so don't forget your woollies smile

With the diodes, just keep putting more in series until you get the charger to kick in. Hopefully they're silicon diodes which will give about .7v drop each so you shouldn't need any more than 3. They shouldn't get too warm as they'll only be dissipating about 20 watts in total.

Ideally though, since you do have a solar controller after all, set some time aside to run a lead in and use that as it will be more efficient.

aussie_paul · Guru

I tried 1, 2,and 3 diodes and now it has the DC DC charger cutting in and out. I also connected the 10 amp controller output to the DC DC charger and the same thing happens. Now I have the output of the portable panel 10 amp MPPT solar charger straight to the battery. I think I will forget about using the DC DC charger to take advantage of the portable solar. Time to get a 30 amp mppt solar charger and have an extra Anderson plug that I can use for the portable when needed.

When I get home I will add the videos of what the 10 watt MPPT, the diodes and the DC DC charger.

Trying to make less work and utilise what I have is not gonna cut the mustard it seems!!!

Aussie Paul. smile

-- Edited by aussie_paul on Sunday 13th of September 2015 03:23:39 PM

Cruising Cruze · Guru

Hi Paul

It's a pity that it didn't work out for you mate
Jaan put me on to a new ( for me ) MPPT charger
It seems to work very well for me

www.ebay.com.au/itm/40A-MPPT-Solar-Charge-Controller-Regulator-TRACER-MAX-PV-100V-INPUT-W-Meter-MT-5-/121067529663

Cheers John

Ondabeach · Senior Member

If the DC to DC charger is cutting out then I'd say your diodes aren't rated for enough current Paul. I've ordered some of these (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/4854312/?searchTerm=BYV32E-100&relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D4259563332452D31303026) which should be up to the task.

But since you have a solar controller that's still the most efficient way to go.

aussie_paul · Guru

Would this be suitable as a mains charger for my two 120 a/h house batteries?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-Battery-Charger-40-Amp12V-240V-40A-ATV-Boat-4WD-Caravan-Motorcycle-/360680228173?hash=item53fa37854d

Aussie Paul. smile

-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 22nd of September 2015 05:51:42 PM

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Sounds too cheap for a 40 amp to be any good to me Paul, batteries are expensive so I'd spend more and get a name brand charger that is at least a 5 stage or even better, a 7 stage like this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221312655832?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

aussie_paul · Guru

Ondabeach wrote:
Sounds too cheap for a 40 amp to be any good to me Paul, batteries are expensive so I'd spend more and get a name brand charger that is at least a 5 stage or even better, a 7 stage like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221312655832?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks Steve.

Aussie Paul. smile

Ondabeach · Senior Member

No worries Paul, I googled Mishto chargers and the only review I could find was for the 20 amp version and it wasn't good, the guy said it kept blowing the fuse in his house when he plugged it in.

I got those 20 amp diodes from RS Components a few days ago and my new 160w folding solar panel just arrived this morning, and I have my Ridge Ryder DC to DC charger set up in the bus. Now I have everything I need to try out my solution for your original post. I'll hook it all up and let you know how it goes smile

Cruising Cruze · Guru

@ Paul & Steve

I've got as well one from Bitdeal the $80 12 volt battery Charger

It seems to work ok to me

did had no problems with it so far

Cheers John

-- Edited by Cruising Cruze on Wednesday 23rd of September 2015 12:12:24 PM

aussie_paul · Guru

Bought these, one for battery input and one for output. biggrin

Aussie Paul. smile

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271987623991?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Do they come with the shunts Paul?

aussie_paul · Guru

Ondabeach wrote:
Do they come with the shunts Paul?

Nothing external Steve, I will tread carefully.

Aussie Paul. smile

Ondabeach · Senior Member

Just ask the seller if they need shunts or not. I don't think the Smiths 30-0-30 needs one, just google them and make sure though if the seller can't help.

aussie_paul · Guru

Ondabeach wrote:
Just ask the seller if they need shunts or not. I don't think the Smiths 30-0-30 needs one, just google them and make sure though if the seller can't help.

Ta Steve. I reckon I put one of those Smith ones in my 1969 Mazda 1200 Coupe...

Aussie Paul. smile