That is why the portable panel Peter. Time will tell if I have to add another panel to the roof. So far so good.

Aussie Paul. 

I guess that's a little due to battery calling it quits at night?
The thinking is more storage..??

iana wrote:

---

I am having fun here, Its okay moderators, I know some of the folks on here may have delicate tickers, but mine is not that flash either. you see its a case of asking the question "Why". Ever since I was knee high to a grass hopper, I have been asking the question "Why". Just ask my present boss, when I say " now I've been thinking" I know he's thinking "what the hell is he coming up with now".
And yet I come up with some pretty wiz bang solutions to situations that we have just put up with, just because someone else has said that is the way it is, until I interrupt and ask "Why".
Now in this post I have not mentioned portable panels, that has just been an assumption by those who are saying if they are not fixed then they must be portable. But yes technically I am thinking of portable panels, but thinking outside the square, what if the panels can be mounted on the roof, but can be orientated for the optimal ( note , I did not say best), efficiency?
Still mounted on the roof, hence can't be stolen, maybe packed away prior to moving, or left fixed flat, still to be explored.
Just remember I am intending to travel to a spot, camp for a week or so, I have plenty of time to set up, life is going to be a dream. Provided I've got the design of the van right!

PS I don't have a sense of humour, nor do I have any sense.

-- Edited by iana on Wednesday 31st of December 2014 03:56:08 PM

---

 Hi

 I had exactly what you are thinking

I initially sarted with the panels mounted flat & also had limited space for more panels

The best I could fit was 2x80W & 1x 40W[total 200W]

While not being to bad ,it was obvious I was not getting anywhere near full output

 I built a tilt & turn frame,mounted the panels on that

Maually changed the panel orientation last thing at the afternoon[ when panel output has decrease to 0A]to face the rising sun with panels tilt adjusted

then around 11AM reset then to basical North&, depending on location altered the tilt angle so they faced into the midday sun,  around 2PM reset to face the Sunset position

Not something one would bother with IF there was plenty of area for more panels, but in my case there were significant gains EVERY day

They were layed down & bolted to the main supporting frame when traveling or high winds[ rocked the boat too much for my loved one if left up in high winds]

Also had 200Ahrs deep cycle battery capacity

For OUR use, it was a well balanced system, with all our camping away from mains power!

PeterQ

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 2nd of January 2015 12:19:52 PM

Juergen,

Agree with your sentiments on Solar and Batteries, we are on a couple of other forums.

Just a question, Where are you going to mount the Domestic Air Con? I have a Coaster like yours and I have yet to decide.

You may also be interested in the facebook page for Coasters at

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1464807453774034/

Regards

Rob

HI iana

How you get it all set up is up to you But this is a typical set up when using solar 

The van has XX deep cycle batterrie these are charged by an inbuilt mains charger when mainsupply is available

the charger shall have an isolating switch, which can be used to switch the chargerOFF if solar charging is sufficient

The charger will also supply any 12V Loads that are within ITs'current limits,any extra required will be drawn from the house batterrie

There is usually also some 240V outlets for 240V devices when on mains supply

The batterries will usualy be also charged by the vehicle alternator when driving  this should be done by some form of automatic disconnect when the engine is not running [either an ignition switch conrtolled relay or a VSR "volttage sensitive relay

The Solar panels usually are connected direct to the House battery through a solar regulator

Now" how do youKnow if the panels are working"?/

 But the Very basic set up should have an ANOLGUE DC ampmeter between the solar contoller & the batterries

I say anolgue because they do not draw down the batterries when in use,.with that you can tell when ever you look just how many amps the solar is putting into the batterries or other12V loads if they are on

THe next basic is a good voltmeter , Anolgue again has the advantage that their load on the battery is almost zero but Digital will beeasier to read 

With THAT you will be able to tell roughly what SOC the batterries are in AND how any charging is going .

OR you could go for a regulator that has all the bells & whistles that will give you a lot more information.

 

The house batterries should also be charged by the vehicle alternator when travelling,but as mentioned else where  needs an ignition controlled relay or a VSR to isolate the two battery groups when the engine is not running 

This ensures the crank battery cannot be flattened by van loads

A DC to DC charger may be required with some vehicles, for the alternator to do any wortwhile charging of the house batterries

JUst remember If you go for a 3WAY fridge, the 12V heater circuit should only be taken from the vehicle .[heavy cables ,size dependent on fridge model & cable length]

Depending on fridge model that may or may not require it's own isolator so the fridge does not flatten the crank battery

All circuits should be fused as close to the batterries as practical,but not in the battery comparment as fumes can affect the contacts [corrosion]

Fuse Amp rating should be no higher than the current rating of the cables they are protecting.

THat is about as basic as it can get

A wise extra extra is a battery monitor 'LOW VOLT CUTOUT,[ again fitted as close as practical to the house batterries as it is battery voltage that is to be monitored [,not battery voltage& voltage drop in cables]" which disconnects the house  battery, to protect it from life shortening over discharging

I prefer one that can be adjusted  to cut out  @ around 11.8 <12.2v ,the type of loads will determine the best setting

PeterQ

r 

-

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 3rd of January 2015 11:04:49 PM

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 3rd of January 2015 11:11:33 PM

Iana

1. Roof mounted panels will charge the battery bank while you are driving. Our older system definitely charged from both the tow vehicle and the panels. The tow vehicle only put out 12 amps at 12V (144 W). Grandson changed that tab on the pig tail cable so that now used for the rear view TV (backup TV). Since we get up to 1330 W maximum from panels (around 850 W now in mid-winter in southern New Mexico at 32 degrees N)

2. Just wash the panels with a hose and perhaps mild soap and warm with a sponge. Just hose under the panels

3. You do need to consider your location vis a vis trees with roof mounted panels. If there are a lot of trees, we try to site ourselves so that we have solar insolation in the morning and shade in the afternoon.

4. As a few others have noted, the cost of panels has gotten so low that it is much easier to mount more panels than it is to tilt them. Very large commercial level arrays on rooftops are laid flat since tilting would just cover other panels. The cost of panels in the US is well below $1US/Watt and in pallet loads, the cost is below $.50 US/Watt

5. Know some folks that use both flat-mount and dismounted frame mounts. Flat-mounts will not provide a lot of power until mid-morning in winter. These folks set up about 200 W on frames to get the early morning insolation. They basically do with their frame mounted panels that PeterQ does with his. They do re-orient the panels during the day and get the late afternoon insolation as well.

One friend has 1800 W of panels on his pickup camper/motorcycle tow hauler trailer. Pickup and trailer have their own systems of panels and battery bank with inverter. He can put the tow hauler trailer in direct sunlight while his pickup-camper is in the shade. He has mounted several panels to the side of his pickup-camper to get maximum insolation in winter.

Reed and Elaine