Dougwe wrote:

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For those that didn't read my "Original" thread about the Prado not starting now and then it appeared at first to be the inhibitor switch as when I moved the transmission selector back and forth it started but then it was ok for a week then had the problem again for two weeks then ok for a week.

I bit the bullet last Saturday and had the starter motor replaced as it was leaning more to that being the problem. All was good until I refuelled last  Sunday on my way north and the Prado decided not to start at all. After getting it started I put it in to a mechanic at Penrith and they found the power plug to be loose, so sorted that and as I was also using a lot of fuel check the timing and found it out one notch so adjusted and made some tuning adjustments.

After 3 days now the Prado is sort of starting ok and fuel situation improved, looks like an extra 70km per tank minimum at this stage so that's good. The only thing is it takes two tries at starting first thing in the morning and then ok. The mechanic said let things settle and a couple of tanks of fuel and all should be ok.

Overall I am a happy camper and time will tell if the starter motor was the original problem. If I haven't had a problem in that department for a month I would say PROBLEM SOLVED.

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 lets hope so, as it could get expensive these sorts or problems. As my post said in your original thread, it seemed like the starter and to have a better fuel economy, is a good bonus. Only time will tell, hope it's a very long time before it does.

Thanks all, I did a 300km drive up hill and down dale and all around yesterday and have gained an extra 70km a tank with about 20 lts spare so that's great. The tug also started first time this morning as I was told it would.

Nope, not good anymore Radar. Problem flared up again at Coffs Harbour bugga. Making a dash for Townsville to get there and off the road. I will get Dr Toyo to operate in Townsville.

Checking in a moment to see if I can make it in a day from Gin Gin, Q'land. Should I reckon 

  

I wonder if my health fund covers that 

Doug did you read my comments re immobiliser on your other post.

Daughter and partner had similar problems but with Nissan, went on for nearly 2 years I think,, so maybe you need to look further afield for help.

I would be removing the connection from the starter solenoid, and then running a wire from that solenoid starter terminal and just touch it on the + on the battery after making sure it was in park with the hand brake on...I am a cowboy too David...

 

Aussie Paul. 

-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 10:55:09 PM

Plendo wrote:

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Doug, I think it is time to stand back, and look at it from first principles.

A starter circuit is simple, you have a switch (the one you turn), that delivers power through a gearbox inhibitor switch (the one that only works in Park and Neutral) to a solenoid, the solenoid (or modern equivalent) amplify the small amount of current going through the two switches and feed power with lots of current to the starter. In front of all of this you probably have an immobilizer that cuts off power from the ignition switch, and stops the whole lot dead in tracks.

The symptom you describe of a clicking noise, but nothing more indicates a problem with one of the two circuits feeding the solenoid (it is the solenoid making the clicking sound).

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Plendo    Did Doug state he heard a clicking noise,, if so I missed that on the other posts?

Also in your statement above you appear to have left out the ECU in the sequence (I refer to more info from other sources on my other post above/below).

 

Edited because my auto complete in windows 8.1 is giving my curry,,,lol.

-- Edited by Baz421 on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 11:08:20 PM

Sorry if I misinterpreted guys, but I am sure there was mention of a clicking but no start early in the story, and I have assumed Doug is stil experiencing the same symptoms.

I did not mention the ECU, as like 03_Troopy I believe it would not stop the motor turning over, but may inhibit the spark. My understanding is that the motor is not turning over.

I also just realised that the Prado has a gas conversion, I wonder if there is anything in the gas setup to delay the start while the gas is primed, or if there is a connection to the starter switch circuit to sense start and give a priming shot of gas that is maybe drawing too much power, thus effectively shorting the starter switch line. 

Very difficult without being able to stick a multimeter on things.

Thanks everyone for all the info but now I am confused and that's not hard to do.

I will try to some up as easily and quickly as possible and hope this doesn't turn into a horror novel.


1998 Toyota Prado 3400 V6, auto, petrol/gas, 260,000km on the clock.


First started about six weeks ago when car wouldn't start in morning for 3 days. (clicking sound heard) Started with 1900amp jump starter ok and no prob for rest of day. Auto Elec tested battery and said, faulty so replaced. All good for the next week.

One week later problem back same as before but this time wiggled transmission selector and all good for rest of day and for a week.

Following week problem back every time tried to start car and sorted same as before. Thing now might be Inhibitor switch.

Blow me down the next 2 weeks no problem then started again.

Decided to replace stater motor as after discussions here and elsewhere was leaning to that.

Hit the road 2 Sundays ago on my northern migration and stopped the engine for rest times 3 times with no problems, then again to refuel but this time no start, dead, nothing, no clicking.

Got in behind front right tyre and wiggled what seemed to be wires going into SM, started, continued on my way without turning engine off until first destination.

Put car into mechanic who found loose plug on SM, fixed plus a couple of other minor jobs for me.

All good for next week and left on next leg of migration stopping twice for fuel, all good, next refuel, no go again, same as one week earlier.

NMRA tapped SM with small hammer and started so I continued to next night stop. The mechanic said there is a small oil leak around the SM area and just MIGHT be getting a little oil on contacts or similar. Car started ok next morning.

Decided to get fuel containers, total 30lts and fill petrol by hand in open space and away from people etc (not using gas until sorted) I kept doing this all day without turning engine off and worked. I know, please don't shoot me at dawn. I also used spray brake cleaner to remove said oil/grease away from SM area and put some engine stop leak in.

Next day car started in morning so did my 12 hour drive to Townsville without turning engine off and spend the day like the day before, all good, still living with no explosions or anything like that, phew!

Turned engine off when finally partly set up in Daughters yard and turned engine off. After 1 hour went to start car and started. Buggered if I know.

I just went out at 9.45am Townsville and car started first time, will try again soon and maybe a few times during day as today is rest day. I need it after the last few days.

I understand what people are saying but I can't see how the key or ignition switch or Inhibitor switch is the problem as everything seems to start when something is done to starter motor.


Now, just wondering if,

A, starter motor might be faulty ?

B, Plug or wiring to SM faulty (as mentioned by a couple) ?

C, heat effecting something as seems to be mainly when engine is hot and I have turned it off for short time ?

D, or could oil be the problem ?



I will arrange to take Prado to Dr Toyo ASAP with written explanation. (then he can be confused like me)


Mmmm, is this a horror novel now ?

Does it have a computerized Key and is the battery in it unwell.???

Doug do you get the clicking noise every time your starter malfunctions and if so is it a deep sound like a heavy starter solenoid or a light click as from a small relay.
Alan

Dougwe wrote:

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Key seems ok Baz, have also tried spare.

The problem since new starter went in is NO noise, nothing, zilch, dead as a do do Alan.

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OK Doug we are only guessing here ATM and Mr Toyota will hopefully find an error code (if one exists for your problem) but I researched a lot on the 2 websites I posted before and there was an almost identical problem to yours and many similar that pointed to a MASTER KEY PROBLEM.

Lets hope that's not it,, but you need to solve this obviously.

Good luck, hope it's sorted soon and with minimal cost to you.

Cheers Baz 

Dougwe wrote:

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Well, my daughter had friends visit this morning and I got talking to her friends husband, nice bloke too, he is a soldier here in down town Townsville and just happens to be of importance at the base. We got chatting and the conversation got around to the tug problem. No problem he said, bring it to the base in the morning he will meet me and take over, get the workshop to sort problem, they just love a good challenge and have never been beaten.

Now as he said all this he had a look on his face that I must admit worries me. I just hope they aren't going to take it down the back and use it for target practice 

Time will tell now. looks like when you need something done, call in the Army.

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 They have to practise on something Good on you Doug for volunteering!!!!!

Did he also tell you about the "All care taken, but no responsibility accepted" policy. ;)

Dougwe wrote:

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Gee, pick on dougwe it looks like but that's fine I'll just pick on wombat.

Verdict so far is, battery, starter motor and cabling all got 10/10. Tomorrow they are pulling the isolator switch out and checking that and do a full service on the switch. In other words they haven't been able to find any problem. Apparently they are enjoying the challenge though. They did notice that my spot lights were wired all wrong and illegal, they are wired directly into the high beam so are fixing that before I get it back.

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 the only way to fix that heap it to take the wombat scooper off and all your problems will be fixed