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Post Info TOPIC: Waeco Powersupply


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Waeco Powersupply


Sounds good to me.

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D.L.Bishop


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Thanks DeBe for helping.
The thermostat idea came from posts on this board and I plagiarized it. On my way out soon otherwise i would go back and find and acknowledge the original people.
I put the unit in the butter compartment, powered from the 10v interior light and ran two wires down to the compressor. After doing this I realised I could have made a loom with plugs to connect into the board. No cutting or soldering. The thermostat would have to be mounted outside the fridge and i thought it would be beaten up by foldup chairs and tables ect.

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If its working ok with your thermostat, then I guess its OK. Its possible the micro processor is faulty on your board, which makes it unrepairable.



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D.L.Bishop


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It is a Coolfreeze CF 40
The suspect board is the control board and is a 00552268 Rev 0
Sp-005 / 028-1-pc-vl2 #123995 2005.11.25.
My searches on Ebay et al tell me this board is not obtainable and I need to replace the display board, the control board and the wiring loom for nearly $300.
While on Ebay I ordered a 12v thermostat which arrived today and I fitted it. The Waeco is happy cooling a dozen cans of soft drink as I type.
The display board still has ER1 showing, no flashing error light.

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Need to know what the model number is for starters? You wont find any workshop manuals for any Waeco fridges.



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D.L.Bishop


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Need to know what the model number is for starters?



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D.L.Bishop


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I am using quick reply so not sure where this will end up.
My waeco is about 10 years old and I had to fit a new thermostat about 5 years ago.
It was running as a beer fridge for the last 8 weeks on 240v when it froze some cans. After turning up the thermostat it let the contents get warm. The temp readout at that stage was reading ok
Thinking it needed a new thermostat I pulled the covers off and then discovered that the read out has "er1" on it. No flashing lights and the compressor will not run except with the emergency switch.
I have spent hours on the net searching for a workshop / service manual no luck.
My bottom board is a ver 0 and appears to be unobtainable.



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Hi Guys, I had a couple of emails indicating recent activity. I've realised I haven't been back to report/update my dysfunctional 12V operation.

I did all that was suggested with mixed results from memory (digital controller plus/plus) and profusely thank everyone for their help and tolerance, mainly dorian and Debe (without re-reading the whole thing).

I finally bit the bullet and invested in a 120AH AGM Deep Cycle battery, reinstalled/replaced the factory control boards and it now works fine for the once -a-year use it has.
I think it's taken time to come back because I needed to make sure it was all well first, had work interfering and hands and mouth full of humble pie....and had memory lapses

The bottom line is letting you all know the outcome, and for any one else with a similar issue , even though the battery I was trying to use showed enough Volts, it just wasn't up to the task.

cheers and thanks again

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Its looking more like a fault in the electronics of the supply, not capacitors. Unless you are fairly competent in repairing SMPS, it will be easier & cheaper to remove the in built 240V unit & just buy & use an external 240V AC to 13.8V DC @ 12Amp. That's how I run one of my fridges, there are 240V to 13.8Vdc @ 12 Amp power supplys available on E bay for $70 free freight here in Australia.

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D.L.Bishop


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Thanks for the reply DeBe.
I have replaced the C4 capacitor, fridge is doing the same thing.
When it's plugged into mains, but switched off, it makes a high pitch pulsing sound and the relay stays engaged.
When I then turn it on, it jumps up and down, relay goes on/off.
My electrical knowledge is pretty basic, but it would seam like a capacitor problem. Are there any other you recommend I try?
It does work fine on 12/24volts.
Thankyou for your input mate!

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Posibly C4 100uf 35V electrolytic capacitor has dried out.

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D.L.Bishop


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Hi, I'm having problems with my CF40 on 240 volt. I have accessed the power supply board (exact same as yours at the start of this thread).
I can't see anything visually wrong.
When I plug the fridge in, it rapidly flickers on and off, and the relay can be heard flicking. When I then unplug it, the relay clicking gets slower, to a stop.
I have checked the output voltage of the board, it goes up and down from 8-12v.
What could the most likely cause of this be? Not wanting to fork out nearly $200 for a new power board.
Thanks.

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Good to see you was able to fix it.


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D.L.Bishop


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Got it all back together and working like new.  I got a response from Domeetic-Waeco claiming that pre 2006 CF60 would not have a problem and if so it is because of low voltage/power supply cabling.  They are in complete denial that the 2006-on models were simply upgraded because of this fault, and claim the pre 2006 models had no fault.  Yep and pigs can fly.

Anyway BIL happy and thanks to you guys, I managed to identify and fix what Waeco won't admit to, to me anyway.



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:38:32 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:39:25 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:40:21 PM

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Hmm, I need to drill the pins that hold the board in, not to mention the glue. Must be devised as an anti-tamper warranty thing!



-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 09:51:17 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 05:40:29 PM

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Thank-you muchly DeBe, was the critical encouragement I needed. Just went back to it, un-taped the wiring, clipped the wire tie at the top and withdrew the thing. I really should have just done the suggested bypass with an external temp control. It's my BIL's fridge and he needs it soon.


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The only reason I answer is I get an email notification when theres a post here. Have marked your pic on where I have bent parts to get it out, it is not an easy exersize.CF60.JPG



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D.L.Bishop


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Debe and habana have successfully removed the PSU but for the life of me it has me beat.
Sorry new to this forum and found it trying to solve a Waeco CF60 error light condition mucking around with temperature of the fridge. Even though the thread is old I hoped these guys still look in.
I bought the 9 amp polyfuse but struggling to pull the PSU unit free. The condenser pipes are in the way. Even lowering the compressor tray and bending the bottom tube, there is no way of pulling the unit out. What also stops it coming are the leads and suppression doughnut on top of the plastic housing getting in the way.
If those who have been successful doing this task, I'd love to hear some clues I might be  missing.

CF60.JPGCF60 2.JPG


-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 03:13:45 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 06:52:58 PM

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The 560 ohm resistor is for the Fault LED. The 680 ohm resistor on the switch is to give 3000RPM on the compressor if you want it to cool down quicker, it does draw more current when running. With the switch closed bridging the resistor it gives a mutch slower 2000 RPM  (economy) draws less current when running.



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D.L.Bishop


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Hi guys, sorry to not have updated for a while, been caught up with other stuff..in fact I thought I posted this the other day.

The digital controller didn't arrive until after the NY break, so I made do with what I had. That was to rig a 24V application, which ultimately worked significantly no better than 12V, whilst away over the break.
It worked fine with plenty direct sunshine, but even though the apparent battery voltage was generally around 12V, it still did the random cutout and error light on...I have a feeling the unit is super-sensitive to battery capacity.
...however...

But the main reason today is, I need to connect the digital controller, and looking at Debe's diagram and photos, looks simple enough, but am confused by the 560 resistor, as doesn't match to the resistor codes I'm looking at...?

Is any chance of clearer details of that and the one (680 ?)on the switch ..?? I just want to make sure I get it right thanks again for your help, and don't forget I'm not a tech-head

cheers, duTch



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I'll get hold of 12v thermostat anyway, but as I have the goods to do so, I'll reconfigure my panel(s) and set up a 24V system and see if it runs OK off that, as it did before. .If that doesn't work, then I'll try the 12v thermostat- ¿but in that case I can't see any need for a step down doodad anyway. ..?

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The 12V one is the one I use. The step down do dad, is the 10V reg & part of the circuit board cut off a Waeco.



-- Edited by DeBe on Sunday 14th of December 2014 11:54:28 PM

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D.L.Bishop


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Dorian- I noted the other day that when I left it overnight, the heat sinks were warm before I switched the unit on, which made sense when I traced the power in (it doesn't really make sense though to have the on/off downstream from the control module/control board without an on/off switch at point of entry as a standard item, rather than an 'add on' ).
Having said that I guess it's not normal to be plugged in unless in use...!

Haven't had the available time I thought this week....been suckered into 10 hour days

Debe, it seems those thermo units come in a variety of dedicated voltage, I guess a 12v one will be more versatile in conjunction with your step-down doodad for 24 V.....now I just need to find the best place to get one



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ISTM that the design of the 5V and 10V regulators on the main PCB is problematic. AFAICT, the input to the 7805 and 7810 can go as high as 29V, which means that even at low load currents the regulators would be dissipating significant wattage. Perhaps this could explain the failure of the 7805 on the original PCB and the consequential failure of all the ICs on both boards, assuming that is what happened.


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"I'm at a loss to understand your measurements. cry.gif'

How do ya reckon I feel..?? 

"CP2-3 is a puzzle."     Yes I agree, it goes nowhere neither on the new board, nor on the old board...

"SW1 on your new board is configured as a battery voltage limit selector. The LOW, MED, and HIGH settings connect resistors R3, R5, and R4 between the compressor's P and C terminals. LOW is selected when the slider is closest to CP2, and HIGH is selected when the slider is nearest to CP3. In the LOW position the resistance is zero (R3 is a wire link).'

I'll process that tomorrow.....I assumed when I found 'R3' that it be a Jumper you referred to earlier..?

 

Debe, I'll look at your pics closer tomorrow- will have time to kill......thanks

 just a note, whilst checking above stuff, still running on mains/24V, it cut out @ -6/+3 set on LED 8, so that indicates the thermostat is functioning in some kind of fashion...?

I'm hoping that all of this will be of some benefit to someone else in the future......



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WAECO CF-110 circuit-Elect Thermostat.jpgWAECO CF110.1.JPGWAECO CF110.2.JPGWAECO CF110.3.JPGWAECO CF110.4.JPGWAECO.8.JPGWAECO.3.JPGIt should run on 12vdc or 24vdc. When on 12v check the voltage on the top 2 conectors ont -Danfoss Bridge C & T to run comp @ 2000RPM.JPG

If all else fails then this is how it was done with a fixed battery dropout voltage & a 2 speed compressor selection. Used the 10V reg to feed power to the electronic thermostat (this is used if its likely to be run on 24V.)

-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 08:19:01 AM



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:42:34 AM



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:43:21 AM



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D.L.Bishop


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I'm at a loss to understand your measurements.

SW1 on your new board is configured as a battery voltage limit selector. The LOW, MED, and HIGH settings connect resistors R3, R5, and R4 between the compressor's P and C terminals. LOW is selected when the slider is closest to CP2, and HIGH is selected when the slider is nearest to CP3. In the LOW position the resistance is zero (R3 is a wire link).

The pinout of connector CP2 appears to be ...

CP2-1,2 <-- red -----> V+
CP2-3 <---- red -----> ???
CP2-4 <---- black ---> Compressor-D (error lamp output)
CP2-5 <---- white ---> Compressor-C (common)
CP2-6 <---- yellow --> Compressor-T (RPM select)
CP2-7 <---- grey ----> Compressor-P (battery voltage limits)

CP2-3 is a puzzle. I can't see where it goes, and I can't even guess at what it might be. Do you have any idea?

Some of the interconnections on the PCBs are obscured, so there could be errors in my drawings or interpretations (I've had to guess at a few).

Do the wire colours at the PCB end match the colours at the compressor end?


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Definitely SW1 onboard switch, the original remote switch is by appearances identical, and nowhere to connect to..

When running, it doesn't seem to matter which position

Quote from Allvolts;

"As for the slide control, slide it to the left and leave it like this(this is the instruction from Waeco, we dont find that the position makes a difference).
>The fridge should work as before except that the the slide control will always be in the low or economy position depending upon the size in litres.'

 

Photos are

1) Old remote SW1 

2) Reverse of New PCB, SW1 at bottom above thumb

3) Closeup of R3, R5 which are beside SW1



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A resistance of 18K between the compressor's P and C terminals selects 12.0V cut-in and 10.8V cut-out.

The fact that this resistance does not vary as you operate the slider switch suggests that either the switch is not configured to operate as an ABS selector, or perhaps you are operating the wrong switch.

Since the new PCB has on onboard switch rather than an external one, then this is the switch that you should be using. The external switch that was connected to the old PCB via connector CP5 is no longer functional.



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Ok, power disconnected, checked between 'C' - 'P' resistance....same readings on each switch setting- none zero, one meter (DIGITECH) '20K' setting says 17.41, another meter (AMPROBE) on '40K' says 16.4....??...analogue meter says something completely else...!!!!

 

Compressor did run happily on 12V(11.5) this morning for about 10 minutes, then back to old ways....I think I might have to use two batteries in series for 24V and rearrange the charge panel to suit...and chase up one of Debe's digital thermistor

One Thermostat wire initially read 11.3? (on 20K) then nothing, but is the pair that consistently allows compressor to start, the other gave 12.02 (on 20K) then nothing and consistently will NOT allow compressor to start...

 

Thus far, I still have hair but maybe not for long..!!!!!



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