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Post Info TOPIC: Waeco Powersupply


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Waeco Powersupply


JohnnShell, What are the model numbers of the Waeco fridges & are they chest or upright type? Waeco keep changing the controler boards.

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D.L.Bishop


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...my fridge controller is playing up on it's fastest speed due to high heat days but works fine on the two lowest speeds if that is worth a try!

 

edit: not a danfoss but a Wancool copy.



-- Edited by phild01 on Saturday 19th of December 2020 12:43:33 AM

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If you are suggesting they only work on 12v then you could just buy some 240/12v 10a power bricks.

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Late to this party and my first post! I have 2 x 80lt waecos with the lcd display, I think I have blown both controllers when trying on 240v, replacement DANFOSS 101N0220 is cost prohibitive, I intend to run with the external temp controller like I do on my 110, just wondering if anyone here is handy with figuring out the component I have blown on both boards and would be happy to repair for me? I will of course be happy to pay. My mobile is 0404046610 or email jefahey71@hotmail.com, wife and I are planning our lap or 3 in the next couple of years. Thanks all

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But now something new. The compressor starts but stops after 3 seconds. It's it blocked?

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Turned out the voltage cut out switch was corroded and cutting out the power. Cleaned up the switch and it all works fine.

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I would suspect the Motor control module is faulty

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D.L.Bishop


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Can anyone help me out?

I have a CF80 version A.

1. When plugged in fridge won't turn on at the control panel. No error lights or anything.
2. Emergency switch won't work either, thermisor is ok.
3. Voltage checked at the controlled module and getting 12.7V. Internal light also on. I even ran power directly to the module and nothing happened.
4. If I bridge T & C I can then turn on the display panel and the fan starts, also flashes error three. Motor pressure issue. I can turn off the display but the fan stays on till I unplug the fridge.

What now? Is the module dead or is the compressor not working?

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Sounds good to me.

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D.L.Bishop


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Thanks DeBe for helping.
The thermostat idea came from posts on this board and I plagiarized it. On my way out soon otherwise i would go back and find and acknowledge the original people.
I put the unit in the butter compartment, powered from the 10v interior light and ran two wires down to the compressor. After doing this I realised I could have made a loom with plugs to connect into the board. No cutting or soldering. The thermostat would have to be mounted outside the fridge and i thought it would be beaten up by foldup chairs and tables ect.

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If its working ok with your thermostat, then I guess its OK. Its possible the micro processor is faulty on your board, which makes it unrepairable.



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D.L.Bishop


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It is a Coolfreeze CF 40
The suspect board is the control board and is a 00552268 Rev 0
Sp-005 / 028-1-pc-vl2 #123995 2005.11.25.
My searches on Ebay et al tell me this board is not obtainable and I need to replace the display board, the control board and the wiring loom for nearly $300.
While on Ebay I ordered a 12v thermostat which arrived today and I fitted it. The Waeco is happy cooling a dozen cans of soft drink as I type.
The display board still has ER1 showing, no flashing error light.

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Need to know what the model number is for starters? You wont find any workshop manuals for any Waeco fridges.



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D.L.Bishop


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Need to know what the model number is for starters?



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D.L.Bishop


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I am using quick reply so not sure where this will end up.
My waeco is about 10 years old and I had to fit a new thermostat about 5 years ago.
It was running as a beer fridge for the last 8 weeks on 240v when it froze some cans. After turning up the thermostat it let the contents get warm. The temp readout at that stage was reading ok
Thinking it needed a new thermostat I pulled the covers off and then discovered that the read out has "er1" on it. No flashing lights and the compressor will not run except with the emergency switch.
I have spent hours on the net searching for a workshop / service manual no luck.
My bottom board is a ver 0 and appears to be unobtainable.



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Hi Guys, I had a couple of emails indicating recent activity. I've realised I haven't been back to report/update my dysfunctional 12V operation.

I did all that was suggested with mixed results from memory (digital controller plus/plus) and profusely thank everyone for their help and tolerance, mainly dorian and Debe (without re-reading the whole thing).

I finally bit the bullet and invested in a 120AH AGM Deep Cycle battery, reinstalled/replaced the factory control boards and it now works fine for the once -a-year use it has.
I think it's taken time to come back because I needed to make sure it was all well first, had work interfering and hands and mouth full of humble pie....and had memory lapses

The bottom line is letting you all know the outcome, and for any one else with a similar issue , even though the battery I was trying to use showed enough Volts, it just wasn't up to the task.

cheers and thanks again

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Its looking more like a fault in the electronics of the supply, not capacitors. Unless you are fairly competent in repairing SMPS, it will be easier & cheaper to remove the in built 240V unit & just buy & use an external 240V AC to 13.8V DC @ 12Amp. That's how I run one of my fridges, there are 240V to 13.8Vdc @ 12 Amp power supplys available on E bay for $70 free freight here in Australia.

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D.L.Bishop


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Thanks for the reply DeBe.
I have replaced the C4 capacitor, fridge is doing the same thing.
When it's plugged into mains, but switched off, it makes a high pitch pulsing sound and the relay stays engaged.
When I then turn it on, it jumps up and down, relay goes on/off.
My electrical knowledge is pretty basic, but it would seam like a capacitor problem. Are there any other you recommend I try?
It does work fine on 12/24volts.
Thankyou for your input mate!

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Posibly C4 100uf 35V electrolytic capacitor has dried out.

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D.L.Bishop


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Hi, I'm having problems with my CF40 on 240 volt. I have accessed the power supply board (exact same as yours at the start of this thread).
I can't see anything visually wrong.
When I plug the fridge in, it rapidly flickers on and off, and the relay can be heard flicking. When I then unplug it, the relay clicking gets slower, to a stop.
I have checked the output voltage of the board, it goes up and down from 8-12v.
What could the most likely cause of this be? Not wanting to fork out nearly $200 for a new power board.
Thanks.

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Good to see you was able to fix it.


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D.L.Bishop


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Got it all back together and working like new.  I got a response from Domeetic-Waeco claiming that pre 2006 CF60 would not have a problem and if so it is because of low voltage/power supply cabling.  They are in complete denial that the 2006-on models were simply upgraded because of this fault, and claim the pre 2006 models had no fault.  Yep and pigs can fly.

Anyway BIL happy and thanks to you guys, I managed to identify and fix what Waeco won't admit to, to me anyway.



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:38:32 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:39:25 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Monday 1st of May 2017 10:40:21 PM

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Hmm, I need to drill the pins that hold the board in, not to mention the glue. Must be devised as an anti-tamper warranty thing!



-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 09:51:17 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 05:40:29 PM

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Thank-you muchly DeBe, was the critical encouragement I needed. Just went back to it, un-taped the wiring, clipped the wire tie at the top and withdrew the thing. I really should have just done the suggested bypass with an external temp control. It's my BIL's fridge and he needs it soon.


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The only reason I answer is I get an email notification when theres a post here. Have marked your pic on where I have bent parts to get it out, it is not an easy exersize.CF60.JPG



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D.L.Bishop


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Debe and habana have successfully removed the PSU but for the life of me it has me beat.
Sorry new to this forum and found it trying to solve a Waeco CF60 error light condition mucking around with temperature of the fridge. Even though the thread is old I hoped these guys still look in.
I bought the 9 amp polyfuse but struggling to pull the PSU unit free. The condenser pipes are in the way. Even lowering the compressor tray and bending the bottom tube, there is no way of pulling the unit out. What also stops it coming are the leads and suppression doughnut on top of the plastic housing getting in the way.
If those who have been successful doing this task, I'd love to hear some clues I might be  missing.

CF60.JPGCF60 2.JPG


-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 03:13:45 PM



-- Edited by phild01 on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 06:52:58 PM

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The 560 ohm resistor is for the Fault LED. The 680 ohm resistor on the switch is to give 3000RPM on the compressor if you want it to cool down quicker, it does draw more current when running. With the switch closed bridging the resistor it gives a mutch slower 2000 RPM  (economy) draws less current when running.



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D.L.Bishop


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Hi guys, sorry to not have updated for a while, been caught up with other stuff..in fact I thought I posted this the other day.

The digital controller didn't arrive until after the NY break, so I made do with what I had. That was to rig a 24V application, which ultimately worked significantly no better than 12V, whilst away over the break.
It worked fine with plenty direct sunshine, but even though the apparent battery voltage was generally around 12V, it still did the random cutout and error light on...I have a feeling the unit is super-sensitive to battery capacity.
...however...

But the main reason today is, I need to connect the digital controller, and looking at Debe's diagram and photos, looks simple enough, but am confused by the 560 resistor, as doesn't match to the resistor codes I'm looking at...?

Is any chance of clearer details of that and the one (680 ?)on the switch ..?? I just want to make sure I get it right thanks again for your help, and don't forget I'm not a tech-head

cheers, duTch



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I'll get hold of 12v thermostat anyway, but as I have the goods to do so, I'll reconfigure my panel(s) and set up a 24V system and see if it runs OK off that, as it did before. .If that doesn't work, then I'll try the 12v thermostat- ¿but in that case I can't see any need for a step down doodad anyway. ..?

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The 12V one is the one I use. The step down do dad, is the 10V reg & part of the circuit board cut off a Waeco.



-- Edited by DeBe on Sunday 14th of December 2014 11:54:28 PM

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