Waeco Powersupply

duTch · Member

RE: Waeco Powersupply

dorian · Guru

ISTM that the design of the 5V and 10V regulators on the main PCB is problematic. AFAICT, the input to the 7805 and 7810 can go as high as 29V, which means that even at low load currents the regulators would be dissipating significant wattage. Perhaps this could explain the failure of the 7805 on the original PCB and the consequential failure of all the ICs on both boards, assuming that is what happened.

duTch · Member

"I'm at a loss to understand your measurements. '

How do ya reckon I feel..??

"CP2-3 is a puzzle." Yes I agree, it goes nowhere neither on the new board, nor on the old board...

"SW1 on your new board is configured as a battery voltage limit selector. The LOW, MED, and HIGH settings connect resistors R3, R5, and R4 between the compressor's P and C terminals. LOW is selected when the slider is closest to CP2, and HIGH is selected when the slider is nearest to CP3. In the LOW position the resistance is zero (R3 is a wire link).'

I'll process that tomorrow.....I assumed when I found 'R3' that it be a Jumper you referred to earlier..?

Debe, I'll look at your pics closer tomorrow- will have time to kill......thanks

just a note, whilst checking above stuff, still running on mains/24V, it cut out @ -6/+3 set on LED 8, so that indicates the thermostat is functioning in some kind of fashion...?

I'm hoping that all of this will be of some benefit to someone else in the future......

DeBe · Guru

WAECO CF-110 circuit-Elect Thermostat.jpg WAECO CF110.1.JPG WAECO CF110.2.JPG WAECO CF110.3.JPG WAECO CF110.4.JPG WAECO.8.JPG WAECO.3.JPG It should run on 12vdc or 24vdc. When on 12v check the voltage on the top 2 conectors ont - Danfoss Bridge C & T to run comp @ 2000RPM.JPG

If all else fails then this is how it was done with a fixed battery dropout voltage & a 2 speed compressor selection. Used the 10V reg to feed power to the electronic thermostat (this is used if its likely to be run on 24V.)

-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 08:19:01 AM

-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:42:34 AM

-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:43:21 AM

dorian · Guru

I'm at a loss to understand your measurements.

SW1 on your new board is configured as a battery voltage limit selector. The LOW, MED, and HIGH settings connect resistors R3, R5, and R4 between the compressor's P and C terminals. LOW is selected when the slider is closest to CP2, and HIGH is selected when the slider is nearest to CP3. In the LOW position the resistance is zero (R3 is a wire link).

The pinout of connector CP2 appears to be ...

CP2-1,2 <-- red -----> V+
CP2-3 <---- red -----> ???
CP2-4 <---- black ---> Compressor-D (error lamp output)
CP2-5 <---- white ---> Compressor-C (common)
CP2-6 <---- yellow --> Compressor-T (RPM select)
CP2-7 <---- grey ----> Compressor-P (battery voltage limits)

CP2-3 is a puzzle. I can't see where it goes, and I can't even guess at what it might be. Do you have any idea?

Some of the interconnections on the PCBs are obscured, so there could be errors in my drawings or interpretations (I've had to guess at a few).

Do the wire colours at the PCB end match the colours at the compressor end?

duTch · Member

Definitely SW1 onboard switch, the original remote switch is by appearances identical, and nowhere to connect to..

When running, it doesn't seem to matter which position

Quote from Allvolts;

"As for the slide control, slide it to the left and leave it like this(this is the instruction from Waeco, we dont find that the position makes a difference).
>The fridge should work as before except that the the slide control will always be in the low or economy position depending upon the size in litres.'

Photos are

1) Old remote SW1

2) Reverse of New PCB, SW1 at bottom above thumb

3) Closeup of R3, R5 which are beside SW1

dorian · Guru

A resistance of 18K between the compressor's P and C terminals selects 12.0V cut-in and 10.8V cut-out.

The fact that this resistance does not vary as you operate the slider switch suggests that either the switch is not configured to operate as an ABS selector, or perhaps you are operating the wrong switch.

Since the new PCB has on onboard switch rather than an external one, then this is the switch that you should be using. The external switch that was connected to the old PCB via connector CP5 is no longer functional.

duTch · Member

Ok, power disconnected, checked between 'C' - 'P' resistance....same readings on each switch setting- none zero, one meter (DIGITECH) '20K' setting says 17.41, another meter (AMPROBE) on '40K' says 16.4....??...analogue meter says something completely else...!!!!

Compressor did run happily on 12V(11.5) this morning for about 10 minutes, then back to old ways....I think I might have to use two batteries in series for 24V and rearrange the charge panel to suit...and chase up one of Debe's digital thermistor

One Thermostat wire initially read 11.3? (on 20K) then nothing, but is the pair that consistently allows compressor to start, the other gave 12.02 (on 20K) then nothing and consistently will NOT allow compressor to start...

Thus far, I still have hair but maybe not for long..!!!!!

dorian · Guru

                               Waeco CoolFreeze CF-110 

                               Display PCB (005221 Rev:0)


                                    CP6-5,11

                                      VCC
                                       +
                                       |
                                .--------------.
              LED4     ___ R20  |     14       |     CP6-2
     Cold |---|<------|___|-----|3          1,2|-------o   Display data
          |                     |              |
          |   LED5     ___ R21  |              |
          |---|<------|___|-----|4            8|-------o   Display clock
          |                     |              |     CP6-1
          |   LED6     ___ R22  |              |
          |---|<------|___|-----|5            9|-------|   VCC (/CLR)
          |                     |              |
          |   LED7     ___ R23  |              |
          |---|<------|___|-----|6  SN74HC164  |
          |                     |              |
          |   LED8     ___ R24  |     U5       |
          |---|<------|___|-----|10            |
          |                     |              |
          |   LED9     ___ R25  |              |
          |---|<------|___|-----|11            |
          |                     |              |
          |   LED10    ___ R26  |              |
   Freeze |---|<------|___|-----|12            |
          |                     |              |
          |   LED3     ___ R12  |              |
    Turbo |---|<------|___|-----|13            |
          |                     |      7       |
          |                     '--------------'
          o                            |
                                      ===
        CP6-3                         GND

    Display enable                  CP6-12




    CP6-10  o----|         CP6-4   o----|         CP6-9   o----|
                 |                      |                      |
                 |                      |                      |
            SW2  o |               SW3  o |               SW4  o |
                   |=|                    |=|                    |=|
         On/Off  o |             Turbo  o |              Temp  o |
                 |                      |                      |
                 |                      |                      |
                ===                    ===                    ===
                GND                    GND                    GND




             Power LED1 (bicolour)

                LED      LED
    CP6-8  o---->|---+---|<----o  CP6-7
                     |
                    .-.
                    | |
                    | | R15
                    '-'
                     |
                     |
                    ===
                    GND



               LED2         ___               Error lamp output
   CP6-5  o---->|----oo----|___|----o  CP2-4  Compressor-D
                    CP6-6   R2
              Error

          Display PCB     Main PCB


(created by AACircuit v1.28.7 beta 02/28/13 www.tech-chat.de)

dorian · Guru

CP1 -> lamp
CP2 -> compressor
CP3 -> emergency switch
CP4 -> thermistor
CP5 -> ABS/RPM switch (optional)
CP6 -> control/display panel

With power disconnected from the fridge, measure the resistance between the compressor's C and P terminals for each position of the battery protection slider switch (SW1). According to Danfoss's datasheet, the position that produces a reading of zero ohms corresponds to the lowest voltage setting (9.6V cut-out, 10.9V cut-in).

duTch · Member

Thanks again for the input...

I'm a bit confused, there is no 'J' jumpers that I can see on the new board..(?) The 'ABS' SW2/CP5 is now incorporated on the new board. Allvolts said to slide it to the left, but was not sure if he meant my left or the other left (whether switch is at top of board or bottom, as the photo we were referring to at the time was rotated 90- switch at side)...

I've attached both boards for easy reference, but further update... I've gone full circle and back to the original issue...

I have two identical wire pairs with yellow connector blocks which I expect are to/from the thermostat CP4/NTC (resistance between these is I think ~16.6 on I think the 20K setting ). This morning I had full functioning switch buttons and LED's, but no compressor action, but when I swapped these thermostat wires it fired up immediately.... on mains/24v and runs fine, (got down to 0/10 on 4 led setting, and cuts out/in- responds to further Temp setting) but on 12V still the compressor tries to kick in but fails even with hardwired to battery/80W panel with upwards of 12.6V(a bit cloudy), which drops to just under 11V under start load- fan runs but retries startup after ~75 seconds (timed), and I have error #1

Edited 11.08 7/12/14 Just to save any confusion;

NEW PCB (LEFT) OLD PCB (RIGHT)

-- Edited by duTch on Sunday 7th of December 2014 12:09:56 PM

dorian · Guru

                                Waeco CoolFreeze CF-110 

                                Main PCB (028221 Rev:A)

                                U3 = EM78P458AP
                                U4 = AT24C02

                                           VCC
                                           ___
                                            |
                                            |_____________
                                            |      |     |
                                            |      |     |
                                         .------.  |    .-.
                                         |  16  |  |    | | R14
                                 Q2 <----|1     |  |    | |
                                         |    20|--|    '-'
                                 Q1 <----|2     |        |
                          VCC            |    19|--------+---o CP6-4  Turbo SW
                          ---            |      |
                           |             |      |              C5
                          .-.            |      |           ||
      Thermistor       R8 | |            |    18|-----+-----||--> GND
          NTC             | |            |      | X1  |     ||
           |              '-'            |      |    _-_
          _V_      CP4-2   |             |      |   |___|3.58 MHz
      |--|___|---------o---+-------------|3     |     -
      |----------------o---+             |      |     |     ||
                   CP4-1   |             |    17|-----+-----||--> GND
                          ===            |      |           || C6
             Temperature  GND            |      |
             Display                     |      |
 CP6-3 o---| Enable          VCC o-------|4   15|------------o CP6-8    Power LED (bicolour)
           |                             |      |
            \|                ___        |      |    VCC
         Q4  |---------------|___|-------|6     |    ---
            <|                R9         |      |     |
           |       VCC                   |      |   +-+--+
           |       ---                   |      |   |    |
          ===       |                    |  U3  |  .-.  .-.
          GND       +--------+---+       |      |  | |  | |
                    |        |   |       |      |  | |  | | R16
                    |       .-. .-.      |      |  '-'  '-'
               U4   |    R18| | | | R19  |      |   |R17 |
               __   |       | | | |      |    14|---+----)---o CP6-9    Temp SW
           .-o|1 |o-'       '-' '-'      |      |        |
           |-o|  |o---> GND  |   |       |    13|--------+---o CP6-10   On/Off SW
           |-o|  |o----------+---)-------|7     |
           |-o|__|o--------------+-------|8     |
           |                             |      |
           | 24C02        CP6-1 o--------|9   12|------------> GND
           |            Display Clock    |      |
          ===                            |    11|------------o CP6-7    Power LED (bicolour)
          GND             CP6-2 o--------|10    |
                        Temperature      |  5   |
                        Display Data     '------'
                                            |
                                            |
                                           ===
                                           GND

(created by AACircuit v1.28.7 beta 02/28/13 www.tech-chat.de)

dorian · Guru

The new PCB is not directly compatible with the original one. The new board has jumpers J2 and J4 while the old board has jumpers J1, J3, and J5. This means that the battery voltage slider switch behaves as an RPM selector on your original PCB, but functions as an ABS switch on your new PCB (as per the manual).

attachments.allvolts.com.au/products/images_large/11998.png

     Waeco CoolFreeze CF-110 

   Main PCB (028221 Rev:A) - ABS control section

 Jumpers J2, J4 installed & J1, J3, J5 not installed


   Compressor-C (Common)
        CP2-5
                 
          o
          |
          |
          o
           ) J2
          o
          |    SW2  slider switch
    CP5-3 o    ABS
         /
        /
      o/  o   o  CP5-1,2,4
      |   |   |
   R3 |   |R5 | R4
     .-. .-. .-.
     | | | | | |    R3 = LOW (zero ohm link)
     | | | | | |    R5 = MEDIUM
     '-' '-' '-'    R4 = HIGH
      |___|___|
          |
          o
           ) J4
          o
          |
          |
          o

   Compressor-P (Battery Limit Selection)
        CP2-7

-- Edited by dorian on Saturday 6th of December 2014 09:04:21 PM

dorian · Guru

According to the following manual, there is a slider switch for setting the battery protection voltage. It provides three settings -- Low, Med, High.

http://www.waecofridges.co.uk/pdf/coolfreeze-manual.pdf

The Main PCB has a switch connector (CP5) identified as Active Battery Security (ABS SW2). After examining the circuit, it appears that there are two possible functions for this switch, and these functions are selected by jumpers J1 - J5.

In fact, contrary to the manual, SW2 on the subject board behaves as an RPM selector, not as an ABS selector. That is, the slider switch selects LOW, MEDIUM, or HIGH compressor RPM when normal mode is active (not Turbo).

The ABS setting is fixed -- the compressor's P terminal (Battery Voltage Limits) is linked to its C terminal (Common).

                   Waeco CoolFreeze CF-110 

              Main PCB (028221 Rev:A) - RPM control section

              Jumpers J1, J3, J5 installed & J2, J4 not installed

                  Compressor-T (RPM select)
                    CP2-6
                 
                      o
                      |
                |-----+----------+----------|
                |     |          |          |
                |     |          |          o
                |     |          |           ) J3
   Emergency    |     |          |          o
      SW3       |     |          |          |    SW2  slider switch
       _/  CP3-1|     |          |    CP5-3 o    ABS
  |--o/  o---o--+     |          |         /
  |----------o--+     |          |        /
           CP3-2|     |          |      o/  o   o  CP5-1,2,4
                |     |          |      |   |   |
                |     |          |   R3 |   |R5 | R4
               .-.   .-.        .-.    .-. .-. .-.
               | |   | |        | |    | | | | | |    R3 = LOW (zero ohm link)
               | |   | |        | |    | | | | | |    R5 = MEDIUM
               '-'   '-'        '-'    '-' '-' '-'    R4 = HIGH (unpopulated)
             R1 |     | R7    R6 |      |___|___|
                |     |          |          |
                |     |          |          o
                |     |          |           ) J1
                |     |          |          o
                |     |          |__________|
                |     |          |
                |     |          |
                |      \|         \|       ___
                |   Q2  |---|   Q1 |------|___|---> U3-2   Normal RPM
                |      <|   |     <|       R10
                |     |     |    |
                |     |     |    |         ___
                |     |     -----)--------|___|---> U3-1   Turbo RPM
                |     |          |         R11
                |-----+----------|
                      |
                      |
                     ===

                  Compressor-C (Common)
                    CP2-5


    Compressor-C  o------|
      CP2-5              |
    (Common)             o
                          ) J5
                         o
                         |
    Compressor-P  o------|
      CP2-7
  (Battery Voltage Limits)

duTch · Member

Update- the short story- found a Control Board at;

http://www.allvolts.com.au/catalogue/3778_item.html?ref_cat_id=FRIDGE-FREEZER-COOLER-WAECO-SPARE-PARTS

installed, and all the top panel lights work except 'TURBO', but battery low volts the compressor isn't kicking in.....but no error LED..more later

duTch · Member

I thought I posted this reply, but it must've failed.... so extra update at bottom

Hi Dorian, I was in the middle of isolating each resistor to check them, but had a small interruption from a "light rain shower" here...torrential storm actually!!! I think they are mostly ok, depending on tolerances.. I need to go do a job, so will try and analyze that and reassess later when I get back

It seems something isn't switching, as nothing happens when I do the on/off button, and the only LED that fires up is the 'error'. I think the operating panel (for the most part at least) is ok, and I suspect one or more of the three trannies (8050S C331), but I tried RS, Jaycar and Prime but they don't seem to be available in Oz, the guy at Jaycar suggested trying BC 639 021. (I understand the difference between these is 80V/1.0A, rather than 20V/1.5A..?)

I think it's likely it needs a whole new board...??

cheers

Update- with my extensive knowledge of Transistors and ceramic resonators garnered from a 10 minute internet session, apart from one trannie with a broken leg (Q4), all three tested with readings of ~ 980 (ohms?) between two sets of two of the three pins, with each set having a common (NPN), and only in one direction using the diode function.. so I replaced the one with the broken leg (Q4) with the above BC 639 021, which had a test reading of ~960 ( ?). The Resonator broke off completely, so I found a blue one(same value) at Prime Electronics, but they only had a three pin one which I soldered in and disregarded the centre pin. (gnd?)

So having done all that, nothing really changed, still only runs constant on 24V (to -10C freezer/0C fridge).......

I've had a look at results for the WH7016C Thermostat, and there's a few different versions- still processing that one.

dorian · Guru

The Danfoss controller's terminals have the following function:

C = Common (ground)
P = Voltage Limits
T = RPM

The error LED is reporting a "battery protection cut-out error". However, a voltage of 0V at the P terminal selects the following operating conditions, so I can't see why the Danfoss controller should be complaining.

At 12V ...

12V cut-out = 9.6V
12V cut-in = 10.9V
max voltage = 17.0V

At 24V ...

24V cut-out = 21.3V
24V cut-in = 22.7V
max voltage = 31.5V

A voltage of 0V at the T terminal selects 2000 RPM. That's the emergency override setting.

In normal operation the main board connects the T terminal to ground via one of two resistors which are switched by transistors Q1 and Q2 (Normal and Turbo speed). The fact that this terminal is sitting at 5V means that the compressor is not being turned on by the main board. Was the On/Off button pressed before the measurements were taken? If so, then this would suggest that either the main board or the display board are faulty.

duTch · Member

Thanks Debe and Dorian, had a quick read- so if I find one of those, and ? connect to C,P,T &(D) then I can eliminate Operating panel, and Control Board?

Ive checked the Voltage at the Control Module (101N0220) see below;- seems every time I reconnect, something different happensthis time the compressor has continued to run on 12v (Emergncy)~ , and I feel immediate cold on the comp. outlet pipe....well for a while..

Note that with D,C,P, T all disconnected, readings at module pins with 12.V in, are:
D   0.0        (3.6v @ Wire end)
C   0.0
P 4.95
T   4.95

Input SupplyVoltage

            Mains/24v                Doesn't start on normal Inputs)    ~12v/13.3v

    24v                               24v                                12v                             12v
    Emergency PWR.     Normal Input                   Normal Input               Emergency
    (-ve)    0.0
    +    27.0v           27.15v          13.08v        12.3v
    +      v              v                   V                  v
F            15.0        23.92v              10.07v       0.35v
D      3.6-3.9v         4.05v          3.67v        3.68v
C        0.2        0.0 v         0.0v                0.0v

P 0.04 0.0v (4.95v disconnected) 0.0v 0.07v/ (4.95v disconnected)

T        0.2                 4.95v       4.97-5.01v       0.22/   (4.95v              )

With T jumped to C @12V, there is only ~0.07v @ T

I'll go have a hunt for a "WH7016C Thermostat Product'                Thanks yet again, duTch

dorian · Guru

DeBe wrote:
When costs get out of hand these Digital thermostats have been fitted, cost around $15 on Ebay.

Here is the WH7016C Thermostat Product Manual:

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/8/88/WH7016C_instructions.pdf

dorian · Guru

I would measure the voltages at the compressor control board's terminal block. That will tell us what the Waeco main board is doing.

DeBe · Guru

When costs get out of hand these Digital thermostats have been fitted, cost around$15 on Ebay. The last picture is what a person did bypassing the control panel as it as it was faulty & was costing too mutch. The switch on the right gives 2 different compressor speeds, he is quite happy with its performance, even if it does look a bit rough. DIG TEMP CONTROL.1.JPG DIG TEMP CONTROL.3.JPG WAECO ELECTRONIC THERMOSTAT.F.jpg

-- Edited by DeBe on Wednesday 26th of November 2014 08:24:40 PM

duTch · Member

Yo Debe, I tried to garner as much info as I could from your other photos, but figured not much point....

I've added photos of each boards front and reverse, and the reverse side of each board flipped vertical for easy(?) viewing- hope that's helpful

Sorry about the last three being bigger files/resolution...!!

Jaycar close by, so I've replaced the (sn) 74HC164n, but still only runs on 240/24v Emergency gets to <0/0, and kicks in for a bit on 12v but drops out quickly with the voltage error light (1 FLSH/4 SEC.) supply is a bit over 12v, and drops to 11.5ishV under start load...

I've also made a list of all the resistor values, as far as I can determine from the colours which ~match their values in situ. (isolated), and all other bits same.

PS, I meant to add that I'm ok with trying to repair the boards as a learning exercise, but if I can buy new ones at a reasonable price would also be ok....?

-- Edited by duTch on Wednesday 26th of November 2014 08:22:11 PM

DeBe · Guru

Any chance of a clear picture of the printed circuit side of the main controller board & the small control board? as they are slightly different to the ones ive posted.

duTch · Member

Thanks Dorian, much appreciated- I'll have a read.. the 7805 did in fact cook and I've replaced it that's a 5v one and it seems the 7810 is 10v (makes sense by the # but not necessarily !! )
I thought 74HC looked like it needed n extra digit

Cheers (I'll turn the gas down on the front burner)

dorian · Guru

All the information you need is in this thread:

http://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/mobile.spark?p=topic&topic=57291481&page=3

That said, the fact that the SN74HC164N chip is cooked would suggest that it may have been overvolted, in which case you would need to examine the 7810 and 7805 regulators. Also, you would have to be concerned about all the other chips which share the same +5V supply.

There would be no point in replacing the microcontroller (EM78P458AP) as it incorporates appliance-specific OTP ROM code.

EM78P458/459 8-Bit Microcontroller with OTP ROM:
http://www.emc.com.tw/twn/database/Data_Sheet/8BIT/EM78P458459.pdf

http://www.emc.com.tw/eng/database%5Csa2%5C8BIT%5CERRATA%5CEM78P458459_Errata_ver1.5.pdf

Similarly, the 24C02 probably stores user defined settings. A blank chip's contents might be automatically regenerated in normal operation, though.

The 3.58 device is a crystal or ceramic resonator.

-- Edited by dorian on Wednesday 26th of November 2014 09:39:11 AM

duTch · Member

Hello again.

    I hope this all makes sense..??....it's taken all day to do it!!!!

This Waeco (CF 110 series 1/Mk2-? ) is still causing grief.Waeco/Danfoss arent very helpful at all..!!!!! bring it in and well give you a quote cant be all that hard..?.So, Im looking at changing bits until its fixed..unless someone has a better idea, other than burn it..?

The short version;-
      Please, I need to identify these bits (see photo) or find alternatives; Ive wasted time setting this out as I see it in situ.

Chip on Temp. operating/control board;- numbers missing (photo #1)
4CCEF8M
SN74H>?<N ?     I assumed   # 74HC14N

..and on main control board ?
X1 # 3.58M (+ a symbol-)   looks like a Tantalum Cap but peanut shape...?....Closeup see Photo #2

U3              LANEM78P458AP-G
                        0502RBG5143                 See Photo #3

U4                          ATMEL426                   "      "     "
                                  24C02
                                PPP127D

Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4;-         8050S    "    "    "
                                  C331

A longer version ~;-
I took some time to process all the previous informationreasonably straight forward.
Had to then put it on the back-burner (almost feel like adding it to anything that burns..!!!).

After a lot of searches I found and bit the bullet and bought a new Comp.control Module (101N0220), but still not a lot of glory, but in theory should eliminate that as a problem.

It doesnt generally show any LEDs but cools to 0 on mains->24V, on emergency, and on12v almost, but doesnt quite start, even with ~13V supply.if Im lucky sometimes get a voltage error (1 flash/4secs).
   It all suggests to me that one of the startup/control chips or a capacitor may be at fault..??

I'm trying to identify some components that I thought may be easy to replace as I had a blown chip on the Temp Control Panel (photo attached), but I can only see 4CCEF8M SN74HCN, so took a punt and bought a 74HC14N, which made a difference (enabled on/off button) but not sure if its the correct part?


                             Thanks again in advance, duTch

-- Edited by duTch on Tuesday 25th of November 2014 06:07:13 PM

duTch · Member

Hoo boy- heady stuff- Well, I felt like Max Smart trying to break into Fort Knox, but did it, not many screws left unscrewed...

My control board is different, as per photo#1, but Fort Knox jewels (mission controller) look the same- as per photo#3
Installed a in-line fuse, but the 12v factory lead has a lead-plug (ceramic) fuse which hadn't blown but did later..for some reason...(?)

I don't want to waste any-ones' time unnecessarily, but appreciate your input and maybe can be of help to others.

dorian, apart from initially having the 'error' led and then system cutout (running on 12v), after the 'short/arcing' I have no idiot lights at all..??

I've no idea what revs it's at, sounded healthy yesterday, but had it propped up at an angle for access, so was a bit more noisy than today on the level- just feel spinning/motion.

Just for information, to remove the controller, I up-ended the unit and unscrewed the bottom 'plate', and chocked it up with wooden blocks to access the inner unit.(photo#2)

Photo #4 is just the overall kinda view, with the new fuse dead centre.

Bit burned out now, more later..

DeBe · Guru

This is the Compressor controller. To make absolutely sure I would bridge C & T . The compressor should run with 12V supplied to the top 2 terminals. If it doesn't then there is probably a fault with the controller. They aren't cheap around $250. DANFOSS CONTROLER.1.JPG DANFOSS CONTROLER.2.JPG DANFOSS CONTROLER.3.JPG DANFOSS CONTROLER.4.JPG

dorian · Guru

ISTM that duTch's voltages are correct. The compressor should be spinning at 3500 RPM. If it isn't spinning, then it should be flashing its error output at the D terminal. If there is no error output, then this suggests that the microcontroller within the Danfoss control module must be dead.

DeBe · Guru

That picture was to show where to measure the input voltage, the red wire loop was for forcing the compressor to run. There should be a control board somewhere? can you post a picture of it? What you have shown is the Compressor control box, & you appear to have 12V on the top 2 conectors. There should be a fuse usualy inside the cigarette lighter type plug. If you have wired a different plug on the lead then you should have a fuse somewhere fitted to the lead. Is your temp control a slidecontrol? The control board will look something like this. WAECO CDF-40.JPG