How to tell if your tow bar hitch is snatch recovery rated

Wannabe nomad · Senior Member

How to tell if your tow bar hitch is snatch recovery rated

Peter_n_Margaret · Guru

I don't use the hitch.
Remove it and put the snatch loop into the reciever and secure it with the pin.
I actually use a higher tensile pin to avoid the possibility of bending it, alternatively, use a 50mm long piece of pipe over the pin and inside the snatch loop to spread the load.
Cheers,
Peter

Mike Harding · Guru

I hate bloody snatch straps! God alone knows what forces a snatch recovery generates. I do own one as a very, completely, absolutely, last resort but I don't think I've ever used it. If you really must use one ensure you understand how to use them; hint, it's *not* with a heavy right foot.

I suggest ordinary recovery straps joined by passing the loop of strap A through the loop of strap B and then inserting a 200mm piece of dowel (sawn up broom handle) into the loop of strap A and maybe a bit of tape to stop it falling out. Add 25m of 10mm Dyneema rope and a shovel. I have a snatch block too.

I agree with Peter about not using the tow ball, buy one of these instead:

Recovery tow hook thingie

A pair of the plastic recovery ramps may save all that messing around with straps/rope?

yobarr · Guru

Mike Harding wrote:
I hate bloody snatch straps! God alone knows what forces a snatch recovery generates. I do own one as a very, completely, absolutely, last resort but I don't think I've ever used it. If you really must use one ensure you understand how to use them; hint, it's *not* with a heavy right foot.
I suggest ordinary recovery straps joined by passing the loop of strap A through the loop of strap B and then inserting a 200mm piece of dowel (sawn up broom handle) into the loop of strap A and maybe a bit of tape to stop it falling out. Add 25m of 10mm Dyneema rope and a shovel. I have a snatch block too.
I agree with Peter about not using the tow ball, buy one of these instead:
Recovery tow hook thingie
A pair of the plastic recovery ramps may save all that messing around with straps/rope?

Hi Mike.Those hitches are B heavy though,and I ditched mine for a high tensile bolt,as recommended by Peter.Cheers

Peter_n_Margaret · Guru

`NEVER connect a snatch or tow strap to a ball. NEVER EVER.
They break off and become a cannon ball.
Cheers,
Peter

-- Edited by Peter_n_Margaret on Wednesday 8th of December 2021 02:38:18 PM

elliemike · Guru

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
`NEVER connect a snatch or tow strap to a ball. NEVER EVER.
They break off and become a cannon ball.
Cheers,
Peter

-- Edited by Peter_n_Margaret on Wednesday 8th of December 2021 02:38:18 PM

I'm of the same opinion as the above.

I was in a4x4 club. They had the Golden rule of "Snatch Strap recovery was the last resort" when every other method failed.

I have never done a Snatch Recovery even though I carry all the gear.

But as for getting your Tow Hitch and the Barwork attachments to the chassis checked What about a Tow Hitch Specialist, or 4x4 outfit like ARB or similar.

I have a friend (Farmer) who almost lost all the Tow Bar when just pulling his Avan Cruiseliner with his farm, Toyota Landcruiser. Truck. Bolts had come loose on the chassis and it broke away on one side.

So its worth checking the whole assembly now and then

-- Edited by elliemike on Wednesday 8th of December 2021 04:30:54 PM

yobarr · Guru

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
`NEVER connect a snatch or tow strap to a ball. NEVER EVER.
They break off and become a cannon ball.
Cheers,
Peter

Possum3 · Guru

X2. A tow hitch must be used to snatch/tow/recover vehicles.

Wannabe nomad · Senior Member

Thanks everyone. I will try and respond to all your answers .
I probably used the wrong terminology. I meant to do as the 'tick' picture above and I did mean it as a last resort.
I have some maxtrax and a trusty spade and intend letting tyres down.
I've already discovered my x-trail recovery hook (at the front); is not snatch strap rated.
I was just thinking I should know if the pin was strong enough on the off chance got bogged and I couldn't get myself out of it and someone came along and offered to help me.
But in all honesty if I couldn't get myself out I would be much more comfortable with a tow (like the old days) as snatch straps scare the s,,,,t out of me.
But I might just try sking ARB just in case.
Thanks again

yobarr · Guru

Wannabe nomad wrote:
Thanks everyone. I will try and respond to all your answers .
I probably used the wrong terminology. I meant to do as the 'tick' picture above and I did mean it as a last resort.
I have some maxtrax and a trusty spade and intend letting tyres down.
I've already discovered my x-trail recovery hook (at the front); is not snatch strap rated.
I was just thinking I should know if the pin was strong enough on the off chance got bogged and I couldn't get myself out of it and someone came along and offered to help me.
But in all honesty if I couldn't get myself out I would be much more comfortable with a tow (like the old days) as snatch straps scare the s,,,,t out of me.
But I might just try sking ARB just in case.
Thanks again

Hi Lucy.Don't EVER ask a salesman/company if you actually NEED tgeir product,as it is easyvto guess their response.Seem to recall that your car is an HRV or something similar? If so,a bit of research shows that the hooks underneath are rated towing hooks,so no problem.Cheers

Peter_n_Margaret · Guru

Many vehicles have what look like recovery hooks front and rear, but they are in fact tie downs for restraining the vehicle during ocean freight.
They are NOT suitable for towing or snatching.

We have done many snatch strap recoveries. It is the quickest and most effective method available, but as has been said, good quality qualified training and great care is required for both drivers and especially bystanders.
Cheers,
Peter

yobarr · Guru

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
Many vehicles have what look like recovery hooks front and rear, but they are in fact tie downs for restraining the vehicle during ocean freight.
They are NOT suitable for towing or snatching.

We have done many snatch strap recoveries. It is the quickest and most effective method available, but as has been said, good quality qualified training and great care is required for both drivers and especially bystanders.
Cheers,
Peter

Understand what you say,Peter,but my research showed that the the towpoints in the photo are rated as such.I am fully aware that most are for restraint,as you have said,which is why I researched them.Cheers

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

I have pulled boat out with number 8 over tow ball. Most the pulling force is on the tongue .

Craig1 · Guru

A K, well documented "of towball failure" , especially with snatch strap. Maybe the old balls were stronger and probably made here as well. Also little " give " in No 8 so you were lucky.

yobarr · Guru

Aus-Kiwi wrote:
I have pulled boat out with number 8 over tow ball. Most the pulling force is on the tongue .

Hi Graeme.It is the leverage effect that breaks the shaft of the towball. If you're hooked up to the tongue,it is a straight pull.When you're hooked up to a towball,the pull is above the shaft,which is where leverage occurs.Bad news!

-- Edited by yobarr on Thursday 9th of December 2021 12:45:26 PM

Peter_n_Margaret · Guru

Rhett, the bloke who owns Lorella Springs was hit in the head by a ball. It came through the rear window of the ute. He was very lucky to survive.
Cheers,
Peter

Izabarack · Guru

A Snatch strap is the first thing out of the vehicle if I get stuck. Done properly, the loadings on the vehicle recovery points are not of concern. Two straps are sometimes used to double the Kinetic energy properties of the method. I have used a mate's Jimny to recover the DMax on several occasions using two straps. Secret to doing it right is to stop immediately you loose traction and start to dig yourself in. Second part of the secret is to load the strap and use the Kinetic energy release to do most of the recovery.

The DMax has two recovery points bolted to the chassis and if the towbar is used, the loop on the strap is held in the receiver with a turned down Aircraft wing bolt, AKA high tensile. The campervan has bullbar mounting points bolted to the chassis. A couple of soft shackles to a short length of winch extension strap as a bridle has been an effective way to connecting the front to a strap, especially if the pull is going to be a bit off centre. The soft shackles and bridle are used on the DMax as well to even out the pulling forces as much as possible.

I am not aware of any rating system for towbars to be utilised in snatch situations. How might you ever measure the forces in the method in use and how would you ever create some way to limiting the pulling forces to whatever rating is specified? If the strap is loaded efficiently, the pulling forces come on with some level of gradient, rather than a jerk, and that minimises the chances of causing anything in the connections, strap, or pulling point letting go catastrophically.

-- Edited by Izabarack on Thursday 9th of December 2021 04:30:30 PM

Mike Harding · Guru

Izabarack wrote:
Done properly, the loadings on the vehicle recovery points are not of concern.
[snip]
How might you ever measure the forces in the method in use and how would you ever create some way to limiting the pulling forces to whatever rating is specified?

And *that* is exactly why I don't like snatch straps.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

You misunderstood what a number 8 is . It goes around the tow bar not the ball .

Craig1 · Guru

was to me no 8 fencing wire, or gauge, not a not.

elliemike · Guru

Aus-Kiwi wrote:
You misunderstood what a number 8 is . It goes around the tow bar not the ball .

Perhaps "Figure Eight " is the term !

landy · Guru

Aus-Kiwi wrote:

You misunderstood what a number 8 is . It goes around the tow bar not the ball .

More info please AK.

yobarr · Guru

landy wrote:
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
You misunderstood what a number 8 is . It goes around the tow bar not the ball .
More info please AK.

As you would expect,Graeme (AusKiwi) was raised in NZ,where "Number 8" is the most commonly used fencing wire.A typical Kiwi farm fence has 7 wires,with a couple of barbed wires included,one on top. Anyway,it is a commonly used piece of gear for many different tasks.Tying things down with a bit of "Number 8" is common,with its uses almost unlimited. Towing cars etc with "Number 8" is an everyday occurence,as is it being used to build flying-foxes for the kids.Graeme is telling how number 8 is used to tow things,simply by wrapping it a couple of times around the towbar structure. Hope this helps? Cheers

-- Edited by yobarr on Thursday 9th of December 2021 11:30:08 PM

Possum3 · Guru

British Standard Wire Gauge (often abbreviated to Standard Wire Gauge or SWG) is a unit for denoting wire size given by BS 3737:1964 (now withdrawn). It is also known as the Imperial Wire Gauge or British Standard Gauge. Use of SWG sizes has fallen greatly in popularity, but they are still used as a measure of thickness in guitar strings and some electrical wire. Cross sectional area in square millimetres is now the more usual size measurement for wires used in electrical installation cables. The current British Standard for metallic materials such as wire and sheet is BS 6722:1986, which is a solely metric standard.

SWG was fixed by Order of Council August 23, 1883. It was constructed by improving the Birmingham Wire Gauge. It was made a legal standard on March 1, 1884 by the British Board of Trade. SWG is not to be confused with American Wire Gauge, which has a similar but not interchangeable numbering scheme.

A table of the gauge numbers and wire diameters is shown below.[1][2] The basis of the system is the thou (or mil in US English), or 0.001 in. Sizes are specified as wire diameters, stated in thou and tenths of a thou (mils and tenths). The wire diameter diminishes with increasing size number. No. 7/0, the largest size, is 0.50 in. (500 thou or 12.7 mm) dia., No. 1 is 0.30 in. (300 thou), and the smallest, No. 50, is 0.001 in. (1 thou or about 25 µm).

The system as a whole approximates a (constant-ratio)[further explanation needed] exponential curve. The weight per unit length diminishes by an average of approximately 20% at each step. Because the weight per unit length is related to the cross sectional area, and therefore to the square of the diameter, the diameter diminishes by approximately 10.6%:

{\displaystyle {\mbox{Diameter Ratio}}=1-{\sqrt {1-0.2}}\approx 10.6\%}{\displaystyle {\mbox{Diameter Ratio}}=1-{\sqrt {1-0.2}}\approx 10.6\%}
But the system is piecewise linear, only approximating the exponential curve loosely. Thus it runs in constant steps of 0.4 thou (0.4 mil) through the range No. 49 - No. 39 and 0.8 thou (0.8 mil) through No. 39 - No. 30.

British Standard Wire Gauge (SWG) diameters
SWG (in) (mm) Step
7/0 0.500 12.700 0.036"/gauge
6/0 0.464 11.786 0.032"/gauge
5/0 0.432 10.973
4/0 0.400 10.160 0.028"/gauge
3/0 0.372 9.449 0.024"/gauge
2/0 0.348 8.839
0 0.324 8.230
1 0.300 7.620
2 0.276 7.010
3 0.252 6.401 0.020"/gauge
4 0.232 5.893
5 0.212 5.385
6 0.192 4.877 0.016"/gauge
7 0.176 4.470
8 0.160 4.064
9 0.144 3.658
10 0.128 3.251 0.012"/gauge
11 0.116 2.946
12 0.104 2.642
13 0.092 2.337
14 0.080 2.032 0.008"/gauge
15 0.072 1.829
16 0.064 1.626
17 0.056 1.422
18 0.048 1.219
19 0.040 1.016 0.004"/gauge
20 0.036 0.914
21 0.032 0.813
22 0.028 0.711
23 0.024 0.610 0.002"/gauge
24 0.022 0.559
25 0.020 0.5080
26 0.018 0.4572 0.0016"/gauge
27 0.0164 0.4166
28 0.0148 0.3759 0.0012"/gauge
29 0.0136 0.3454
30 0.0124 0.3150 0.0008"/gauge
31 0.0116 0.2946
32 0.0108 0.2743
33 0.0100 0.2540
34 0.0092 0.2337
35 0.0084 0.2134
36 0.0076 0.1930
37 0.0068 0.1727
38 0.0060 0.1524
39 0.0052 0.1321 0.0004"/gauge
40 0.0048 0.1219
41 0.0044 0.1118
42 0.004 0.1016
43 0.0036 0.0914
44 0.0032 0.0813
45 0.0028 0.0711
46 0.0024 0.0610
47 0.0020 0.0508
48 0.0016 0.0406
49 0.0012 0.0305 0.0002"/gauge
50 0.0010 0.0254

Izabarack · Guru

Aus-Kiwi wrote:
You misunderstood what a number 8 is . It goes around the tow bar not the ball .

Reads like a description of another method of attachment I have seen. The loop of the strap goes over the tongue receiver before the tongue retaining pin is replaced by a very long pin (300 mm?). Strap is then routed back towards the other vehicle involved. I find the method quick to set up as you only have to remove the standard pin and replace With the longer pin. Much lighter than also carrying a couple of extra heavy bits of steel and there is no need to remove and store the standard tongue. I personally dislike having any bits of metal either end of the strap. One other advantage of the method is that the pulling point can be either from above or below the tongue receiver.

Another variation of an attachment point on the tow bar is to mount two extra tow balls on a tongue at right angles to the usual. Again, the strap loop is put over the whole arrangement and results in no direct forces applied to a tow ball.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Yobarr has it right . We use this method when pulling
up transmission over head cable . We need a quick release to attach to winch . As with most knots or connections in the overhead they need to be quickly undone but work at the same time . Yes #8 wire was a fencing wire . We joke about it fixing EVERYTHING. Before cable ties . In elect game it was elect tape !!! Every profession has their simple fix methods ! How do you explain a knot on text ? Lol