Electric Brakes on Van /Trailer.

Haji-Baba · Senior Member

Electric Brakes on Van /Trailer.

rgren2 · Guru

I believe that each unit needs to be adjusted to what you have and the conditions.

Greg 1 · Guru

I use slightly higher settings for highway than slow speed around town as the speed is higher. At slower city speeds readjust down so the van is not locking brakes or jerking the vehicle about. On steep descents I regularly adjust the van brakes to what is needed. The Redarc TowPro is great for that. I have the knob mounted alongside my gearshift.

PeterD · Guru

Haji-Baba wrote:
My controller paperwork refers to Sync control and Output control but no other specific details.
Haji-Baba.

What make and model is your controller? It sounds like you have a timer/synchroniser type of controller. They are last centuries technology. If it is one of those types I suggest you upgrade to an inertial type controller. They do not require resetting as you change speed. That means they are at the correct setting every time you use them. The attachment at the bottom explains the difference between the two types.

Proportional Vs Timed Brake Controllers.PNG

Haji-Baba · Senior Member

Thanks for the replies.

My electronics in my braking system are fairly modern but the question I was asking is related to the output settings for Highway and town Travel.

I did read an article on a forum years ago that stated that brakes should be adjusted to maximum output for highway travel.

I have severe doubts if that is the correct way to go considering the fact that most tow vehicles have ABS. brakes and trailers do not.

I have done a lot of miles and know that when a vehicle starts to skid it has lost traction and steering and is basically out of control.

In my opinion highway settings with existing braking systems need to be carefully adjusted to prevent skidding and subsequent loss of control.

On paper and in the brocures pertaining to any system a lot is left to the operator to prevent disasters.

Over to the experts.

Have fun Haji-Baba

-- Edited by Haji-Baba on Sunday 17th of January 2021 11:41:16 AM

oldbloke · Guru

I have red arc. In the manual mode, If I recall correctly 4 or 5 for highway. 3 around town.

But usually use it in the auto/proportional mode. About 4 then.

Gundog · Guru

I Have a Tekonsha P3

Initial brake setup:

1. Connect trailer to tow vehicle.

2. With engine running set power (with Power Buttons) to indicate 6.0

3. Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and fully apply Manual Knob

If trailer brakes lock up: q Turn power down using Power Buttons.

If braking was not sufficient: q Turn power up using Power Buttons.

4. Repeat Step (3) until power has been set to a point just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient force as to achieve maximum braking power.

Boost Setting

The boost button was designed to allow a more aggressive setting for your trailer brakes and is available in three levels - B1, B2, B3.

Each incremental boost setting increases the sensitivity of the P3s inertial sensor, enhancing the participation of the trailer brakes during a braking event. Truck/Trailer B1 icons on the screen indicate Boost On. For example: With the boost off, during a braking event, the power to the brakes starts out at zero and increases with deceleration.

With the boost on level 1, B1, during a braking event, the power automatically starts out at approximately 13% of the power setting and increases with deceleration. With the boost on level 2, B2, or with the boost on level 3, B3, during a braking event, the power automatically starts out at approximately 25% of the power setting and increases with deceleration.

Some cases where you might want to use the boost button: You like the trailer braking to LEAD the tow vehicles braking Towing a full vs. empty trailer Degraded brake performance (most electric brakes require manual adjustment)

Haji-Baba · Senior Member

G D.

Absolutly spot on. Just as expected.

I am convinced that skidding brakes, fully locked up on any vehicle are the cause of a lot of accidents particularly at highway speed.

Driving along our highways look for skid marks, most of which lead off the road and into disaster. The evidence is there for all to see.

Your explanation of adjusting braking performance is very good. I would add one comment and that is I will often adjust my output to "high" in heavy city traffic to counter sudden stops
at lights etc.

I have a boat trailer with override brakes that do work but I have them set to lower output to prevent skidding.
I live near the boat ramp and in a very low traffic area so emergency stops are almost unnecessary.

All good and thanks for a succinct reply.

Have fun Haji-Baba

PeterD · Guru

Gundog wrote:
I Have a Tekonsha P3

Gundog, you have a proportional controller so it probably does not relate to the OPs. He has not revealed the make and model controller he is using. When he said "My controller paperwork refers to Sync control and Output control " it sounds like it is one of the older style synchroniser models (despite being recently manufactured.) Until we know what controller he has we can not offer reliable meaningful instructions to him.

Haji-Baba · Senior Member

Peter it is a H/R Sentinal. Works well and is easily adjustable for all my needs. Probably 7 years old and is fitted to my Holden Colorado ute.

I have three vehicles fitted with controllers and I think the H/R is in the Colo.

Ute weighs 2.7-8 tonnes loaded, Van 1.6-8 tonnes depending on where we are going.

My original question related to braking output at highway speeds and in my opinion skidding trailer brakes in conjunction with ABS. systems on most modern cars is courting disaster.

I get the impression Gundog seems to be of a similar opinion.

I do know that when I leave home on a trip I am testing my trailer brakes constantly at lights an other stops before I get on the highway.

With the thumb operated slide on the controller, testing is very simple and easy.

Have fun Haji-Baba

-- Edited by Haji-Baba on Wednesday 20th of January 2021 09:02:38 PM