Swing up jockey wheel (with 10 wheel) comes standard on TVANs. Minimum tow ball weight is around 105 kms, some models more than double that. Standard ones are made by Easy Lift in Melbourne. Very helpful people when I contacted them about modifying the JW to get a bit more height. Turned out it was possible because of the better materials used (weldable steel inner shaft- many are not). Design of the locking lever is far easier for one person to use than those which are pulled out horizontally.    Had tried the Ark 750 which is heavily promoted but found it sadly lacking in comparison.

Example of the Easy Lift here .... https://www.barteltrailersshop.com.au/10-easylift-heavy-duty-swing-up-jockey-wheel-long

-- Edited by Cuppa on Saturday 19th of September 2020 07:38:15 PM

Cuppa wrote:

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Swing up jockey wheel (with 10 wheel) comes standard on TVANs. Minimum tow ball weight is around 105 kms, some models more than double that. Standard ones are made by Easy Lift in Melbourne. Very helpful people when I contacted them about modifying the JW to get a bit more height. Turned out it was possible because of the better materials used (weldable steel inner shaft- many are not). Design of the locking lever is far easier for one person to use than those which are pulled out horizontally.    Had tried the Ark 750 which is heavily promoted but found it sadly lacking in comparison.

 

Example of the Easy Lift here .... https://www.barteltrailersshop.com.au/10-easylift-heavy-duty-swing-up-jockey-wheel-long

-- Edited by Cuppa on Saturday 19th of September 2020 07:38:15 PM

-- Edited by Cuppa on Saturday 19th of September 2020 07:38:53 PM

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 That looks good, thanks. If I get it with the Camper I'm limited to Alko as that's all Cub will factory fit, but I could fit something else myself later....

dabbler wrote:

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Yes Mamil, I think the swivel with bracket covers all options short of stand base. The ALKO is hard to find in store but readily available on line if you decide against one at fit-out.

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Yes, Cub weld the brackets for the jockey onto the drawbar, so I'm thinking get it delivered with their standard fixed bracket and 250mm jockey wheel, then buy the swivel one online and fit to the opposite drawbar with U bolts and swap the jockey wheel over. Welded on bracket can then be used for stand or BBQ mount.

Bicyclecamper wrote:

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What are those extra's . if they make it more comfortable and don't compromise weight and offroad ability, then get them if you can afford them. I am going for an used cub Hardfloor, that has the indoor kitchen and fridge sink combo, adding a heating/cooling ducted a/c, and hot water for an added shower. It is also cheaper for me to do this this way, then the waste of space poptop that I will be getting rid of.

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Hi Bicyclecamper, the extras I was interested in but he talked me out of were:-

1. Hot dip galvanising of chassis after construction (cost $1000 and adds 30kg to weight) - he reasoned that the steel already comes galvanised, any subsequent weld sites are cold galved, then a coat of hammerite paint overall, so WITH MY INTENDED USE I'd be better off just keeping on top of stone chips regularly. 

2. Fitting the same wheels as my 'tug' to the camper for interchangeability - he said that with the small and light model I was going for my 17" wheels were just too large, heavy, and wide for it

3. Off- road hitch - again FOR MY INTENDED USE he said the standard Alko 50m hitch was perfectly adequate

4. Fridge box added to drawbar ($1300 and 100kg) - too big and heavy (especially with the limited ball weight of my car) so suggested smaller/cheaper toolbox instead and carry fridge in back of car while travelling and inside camper when camped

5. External pole carriers - block view from rear window of car (which was one of the things I really liked about the camper vs caravan), so he suggested just store under bed

6. Utility rack on back to attach bike rack ($1000) - he suggested they can weld a 50mm hitch receiver to the frame instead for $350 

I will still be adding:-

1. Jerry can holder on drawbar - extra diesel for the tug which has too small a fuel tank for country travel!

2. Jockey wheel upgrade from 150mm to 250mm

3. Deluxe awning

4. Shockies - for corrugations

5. 100kg ATM upgrade - no cost option just a paper upgrade to compliance plate

6. 50mm hitch receiver for bike rack on rear as above

You should understand that I'm coming from a caravan and the whole objective is to return to a simpler, cheaper, and lighter form of camping. I won't be living in the camper full time, and my tug cannot do 'serious' off-road and has limited tow weight and ball weight so no point in having a large off-road camper with all the bells and whistles. So, I'm happy that I'm left with something that is an Australian built quality camper for around 20 grand and less than a tonne fully loaded, but more importantly it's soooo less stressful to tow than the van (I've already sold my towing mirrors Lol) and easily stores under the carport at home. Everybody's needs are different, and from your posts in the poptop caravan thread it seems your reasons for going to a camper are a bit different to mine, particularly in relation to getting to remote spots which I don't expect to do, but I'm actually very glad that this salesman seems to have taken my stated objectives to heart rather than try and up-sell me like every other car/caravan salesman I've come across!

Warren-Pat_01 wrote:

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I put one (8 inch?) on my pop-top - saves rooting around in the boot when trying to locate it with other stuff on top of it. I don't use a WDH so there is room for it, is convenient to use.

Mine faces the opposite way to the one Mamil has, keeps thrown dirt out of the bearing on the top of the shaft. mmm

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 Thanks, good tip. By the way the photo I put with my original question isn't mine, just one I borrowed off the interweb. I'm still speccing my camper, hence the question...