Mike Harding wrote:

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A very smart lady, Koala, wrote the following as a reply in my previous thread:

"May I suggest when you decide on your preferred vehicle, if you are savey & willing to hunt around, try auction places. You'll certainly save a bit if you know what you are looking for, husband just got a great buy on a work Ute that is only 3 years old."

This got me thinking (ocassionally something does :) )

I was wondering about a Holden Trailblazer = $35k for what I'm seeking and it looks like a good vehicle and the price is within my budget... BUT it's a lot of cash to watch slowly rust away. Remember I have zero interest in cars these days other than something which can tow my van.

A quick (very quick) glance at the auction webpages searching for "Ranger" (no Trailblazers available) reveals a number of diesel 4x4 Ford Rangers around 2012 with around 150 to 200km on the clock selling in the $7k to $14k area. This is $20k+ less than the Trailblazer and one can do a hell of a lot of maintenancing for $20k!

Hence I'm going to investigate the auction route with interest and my question in this thread is:

What are your thoughts and advice about buying a vehicle at auction?

Edit: typo.-- Edited by Mike Harding on Wednesday 8th of January 2020 03:51:06 PM

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 I've bought many vehicles at auction that have performed well beyond my expectations,but I do try to get ex-Govt vehicles which always have been well maintained,with any faults fixed without any concern about cost.....it's only taxpayers' money,isn't it! One thing I quickly learned....and many will argue.....is NOT to wait until later in the auction to buy,hoping that fewer bidders later will cause later lots to sell at a lower price,as the reverse happens.Choose your vehicle(s),get in early,bid confidently but not stupidly,and get out.Good luck....I'd take a Ranger over a Trailblazer every day of the week.....better vehicle,with 3200kg GVM and ability to easily,and safely,tow 3000kg,with a much longer wheelbase.You could only ever dream of safely towing 3000kg with a Trailblazer...too short,too light .Longer wheelbase means greater stability.Good luck.Cheers

 

-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 8th of January 2020 04:35:00 PM

Mike, Many car dealerships also buy from auctions. It can be pretty cutthroat as your up against the pro's. One of the biggest problems is 1st timers get caught up in  all the excitement and pay too much especially when bidding for their dream vehicle against another committed 1st timers long after the pro's have dropped off as they have a limit on each vehicle there after & they wont go over it as they have to make a profit when they sell it. Yes I have bought several vehicles at auction and I have even bought a new caravan at auction and came out on top each time. My strong advice is go to the auctions a few times first to get a feel for it. "Pickles" have fixed price vehicles - so have a look at those prices to get a bit of an idea of prices, they also have a booklet that you can buy which tells you how much people have been buying vehicles for (I think they still have it). And just don't pick one vehicle if you can help it have several and settle on a price your willing to pay and don't go over it.

As a dealer I have bought literally hundreds of vehicles at auctions over the years, so I guess that makes me a pro!
If you are going to buy at a physical auction (As opposed to online), firstly you need to position yourself so you know who is actually bidding....auctioneers sometimes take bids from the coke machine or fire hydrant!
Secondly, when the dealers drop off, it means usually further bids make you paying too much, so best to back off.
At auction...You finish on it you own it....no warranty expressed or implied.
My experience is two private buyers on the same vehicle provides a lot of entertainment and a very expensive vehicle!

There are advantages in buying at some auctions but do your homework and take somebody experienced if you have no auction experience.

I buy cars and 4X4 though VicFleet and sell at public auction for the government Department I work for. Not all vehicles are serviced by the book and there are a lot of drivers who do not look after their vehicles. Check the books in the vehicles for history and also check the name of the Department that had the vehicle, ring that department and ask to speak to the Fleet Supervisor they may help you with the history of the vehicle. I have been phoned many times.

I have a work vehicle for private use and in the last six years I have had a 2013 Isuzu twin cab 4X4, 2016 3.2 Ford Ranger twin cab 4X4, 2015 Holden Colorado twin cab 2X4 and a 2019 Holden Trailblazer.The Isuzu was reliable but truck like. Ford ranger had a lot of problems, transmission had a vibration, electric problems and the steering lack feel after 30,000kms I returned it to the pool car fleet and grabbed the Colorado it was a great car. After 60,000kms time for a change over I requested a Holden Trailblazer, I now have 45,000kms on it and it has been a great car. I have used it to tow my van as I did with the other cars.

 

Mike I have read a lot just recently about diesel particulate filters needing to be replaced on late model turbo diesels at a bout 150,00 Ks, and being a very expensive repair. It might be worth a bit of research before you consider anything with that sort of millage maybe others on here have more knowledge on the subject. Landy.

-- Edited by landy on Thursday 9th of January 2020 08:48:27 AM

Many people do remove the DPF. However many modern diesels (mine included) have an automatic DPF regeneration program i.e. when they get to a certain point a warning will display and you need to drive the car consistently for x amount of time/distance at cruising speed to let the regen work by burning the accumulation. I've never had it come up on mine as I do mostly highway running. Most problems with DPF arise with vehicles used for a lot of cold / short distance running. Just one reason why modern diesels don't make good school run cars! If the car is used suitably a DPF should never need replacing.

-- Edited by SouthernComfort on Thursday 9th of January 2020 12:56:58 PM

yobarr wrote:

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Having read Mike's posts for some time now,I would be more than surprised if having a PDF removed would cause him to lose any sleep.

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Curses! You have observed me more astutely than I would care Yobarr.

Nevertheless, you are correct - DPF: I'd remove the damn thing
without consideration rather than pay $3k to fix it. Let the new
generations with their iPads save the planet... they know everything
it seems....

Thank you very much all respondents. *Yet again* your advice and
knowledge has been most helpful and I do appreciate it.

I think I shall head down the auction route although I fully
appreciate the "caveat emptor" aspect. Which vehicle I'll go for
remains a mystery, a bit more on-line research and simply what's
available at auction will determine. Fortunately the Jackaroo is
still providing its best but the oil consumption when towing suggests
it is not long for this world :(

Please keep suggestions coming, I have learned much from your
collective wisdom and am eager for further.

Thank you all.

All vehicles need maintenance !! Im sure some wear the jocks and socks all their life ? Sheesh !

I'm always surprised when people say what a bargain they got at an auction - what they forget is that they paid more than anyone else at the auction was willing to pay so in that market they paid top dollar.

Good Luck

hako wrote:

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I'm always surprised when people say what a bargain they got at an auction - what they forget is that they paid more than anyone else at the auction was willing to pay so in that market they paid top dollar.

Good Luck

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Before the auction starts,any wise purchaser will already have done research into the market value of the vehicles he wishes to bid on,and is likely to have decided on his own 'top price'. Anything under that price he may well consider to be a bargain? Bidding at auctions is an art.....I have many times seen a lot sell for more than its "new" price after two individuals became involved in a bidding war where neither was willing to back down....... If research is done,it is possible to get a "bargain",but never let it get personal,as always there is another car somewhere!  Cheers

yobarr wrote:

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hako wrote:

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I'm always surprised when people say what a bargain they got at an auction - what they forget is that they paid more than anyone else at the auction was willing to pay so in that market they paid top dollar.

Good Luck

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Before the auction starts,any wise purchaser will already have done research into the market value of the vehicles he wishes to bid on,and is likely to have decided on his own 'top price'. Anything under that price he may well consider to be a bargain? Bidding at auctions is an art.....I have many times seen a lot sell for more than its "new" price after two individuals became involved in a bidding war where neither was willing to back down....... If research is done,it is possible to get a "bargain",but never let it get personal,as always there is another car somewhere!  Cheers

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 For a dealer buying at auction is a tough gig but some entertainment is always welcome.

Using dealer speak..two "privaties" on the same vehicle always provides some entertainment especially when the auctioneer or cheeky dealer throws in the occasional bid along the way.

I have seen 2vyr old vehicles sell for more than new price in those circumstances.

If buying at a Pickles, Manheim or Grays..read the catalogue and check for "repairable" or "statutory" write off before bidding.

You have to be careful of the price at auctions. the price you bid is not the final price you will pay.

Add their stupid auction markup % on the price. then you have to register it, pay stamp duty and of course roadworthy. All adds up.Some of this stuff is in the dealer price.

So know your prices before you hit the auctions.

I saved min 4k on a toyota hybrid.(compared to the cheapest I could find at the dealers). Took a day off running around getting it registered and to the mechanic.

mixo