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Post Info TOPIC: connecting portable panel leads


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connecting portable panel leads


My portable 80w solar panels have the controller attached to the back, permanently wired to the panels & with about 4 metres of cables to connect to a battery with aligator clips  - I want that to remain even though I realise it could be made more efficient as I use them in the campervan & at home for the tractor & ATV etc. -  My query is that  I understand you should connect the battery to a controller 1st before connecting to the battery - why? - can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for  the controller to work properly? -  It seems to charge OK without doing that but does it mean that it may not perform its functions properly ? 

David



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Hi daffy smile

"can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for  the controller to work properly?"

Yes I would recommend you do that, or just put them face down on the ground. Most instructions say to connect the battery first before connecting the panels. The internal circuit is powered up and protects the output 'transistors'. 

Jaahn



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Thanks Jaahn. smile

David



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Hi David,
My portable panel has an Anderson plug on the end of the 5.0 m lead.
I connect it straight to the Anderson plug on the A Frame wiring harness that normally connects to the Tug, it works fine.
I also have alligator clips with a short bit of cable with an Anderson plug attached, that was supplied with the panel.

The correct way to connect is to first connect the alligator clips to the battery, then join the 2 Anderson plugs together,
that way you don't short your controller if your panel is in the sun and pumping out volts.

Can't beat Anderson plugs for a connector.

Regards Bob

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Hi Bob

Thanks for your reply. - The wiring cable, battery clips & removable connections to the controller fitted on the panels  as supplied are of excellent quality.

As I understand & appreciate from Jaahn's reply & other info is that the wires should be attached to the battery first & then to the controller before the panels are outputting any power to the controller to avoid possible damage. - How does your method as described achieve this? -

Turning the panels face down on the ground to cut out charging whilst connecting the wiring from the battery to the panels/controller is an easy option for me. 

David



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daffyfrancis wrote:

Hi Bob

Thanks for your reply. - The wiring cable, battery clips & removable connections to the controller fitted on the panels  as supplied are of excellent quality.

As I understand & appreciate from Jaahn's reply & other info is that the wires should be attached to the battery first & then to the controller before the panels are outputting any power to the controller to avoid possible damage. - How does your method as described achieve this? -

Turning the panels face down on the ground to cut out charging whilst connecting the wiring from the battery to the panels/controller is an easy option for me. 

David


 Certainly the easiest method and I don't understand why the manufacturer of these "all in one" portable panel set-ups don't put that in large letters in their instruction sheet.

 

T1 Terry



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Hi TI Terry,

Thanks for your confirmation & I agree with you on the lack of any useful instructions supplied.no

David



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Am I missing something whats the big deal about connecting portable panels that job is so so basic mine just connects to the an Anderson Plug on the side of the van ,a two year old could do it,as far as setting up the connections its a nothing job .



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You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.

I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.

 



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Of course a 2 year old could connect panels but like some might not be able to read or  take the time to try & understand a question as originally asked.

David



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The panels will be built to a price, not quality!

Controller on panel.

Crap controller.

No voltage adjustment for battery temperature.

No battery type setting.

Poor electrical connections.

Cheap copper plated clamps, or no original & non UV Anderson plug.

Non heatshrinked ends of wire.

To save money cable far to light for its length.

B grade individual solar cells.

Probably no low-iron toughened glass covering cells.

Overall voltage loss of no more than 0.2 volts for setup.

If you have the above setup it is easy to stop spikes from the solar panels.



-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 28th of January 2019 09:40:02 AM

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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.



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Whenarewethere wrote:

You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.

I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.

 


 My Victron regulator now sits beside the battery and the heap of junk that was supplied with the panels now resides in the garbage where it belongs ,



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Whenarewethere wrote:

The panels will be built to a price, not quality!

Controller on panel.

Crap controller.

No voltage adjustment for battery temperature.

No battery type setting.

Poor electrical connections.

Cheap copper plated clamps, or no original & non UV Anderson plug.

Non heatshrinked ends of wire.

To save money cable far to light for its length.

B grade individual solar cells.

Probably no low-iron toughened glass covering cells.

Overall voltage loss of no more than 0.2 volts for setup.

If you have the above setup it is easy to stop spikes from the solar panels.



-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 28th of January 2019 09:40:02 AM


Ya missed the bit about the controller's internal temp sensor tripping out because of the heat pumped through the panel straight into the controller glued on the back wink

 

These things are built by people with absolutely no idea when it comes to the requirements for good solar operation, but they do know how to make something that looks like it would do the job :lol:

 

T1 Terry 



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Ron-D wrote:
Whenarewethere wrote:

You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.

I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.

 


 My Victron regulator now sits beside the battery and the heap of junk that was supplied with the panels now resides in the garbage where it belongs ,


I keep them for those people who wander into the shop and ask for a good quality solar controller, then go pale when you tell them the price, so I then offer them the rubbish one for $20. When they ask if it will do the same job I tell them quite clearly it won't, it will probably either under charge their battery or over charge and wreck it, but it's cheap :lol: Saves them buying the same thing on evil bay and expecting a different result. I haven't sold one yet, but ya just never know smile

 

T1 Terry 



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You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.

Any links to any sites or products is not an endorsement by me or do I gain any financial reward for such links 



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Yes its safer to cover panels . But .,Do we flatten a battery before connecting ?? The main thing is not to connect onto a LIVE circuit . Fuse pulled or breaker turned off . Work on ONE wire at a time . Be ex line worker . Its second nature .,

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Portable solar panel. Regulator on panel bypassed and short cable with Anderson plug on end Extension cable with Anderson plug each end. Anderson plug mounted on vehicle and connected to solar input of 25amp Projecta dc dc charger.
Could someone please explain in simple terms why it is better to
a) connect extension to dc dc charger and then to panel rather than.
b) connect extension to panel and then to dc dc charger
It seems to me that in both cases when you make the last connection power begins to flow.
Similarly if you lay the panel face down and connect, at the time you face the panel to the sun power starts. Ditto if you pull a fuse, connect and then replace the fuse.
The power hits the controller at the same time in each scenario. Why are you putting anything at risk depending on the order in which you connect.
NB I use a)

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Hi Terryt,
It is not an issue with the way you are connecting up the solar because the DC to DC charger is already connected to the battery and ready to go.
The problem with which order to connect portable panels is when they have their own controller mounted on the solar panel and need to be connected to the battery first, then the panel exposed to the sun. That way the controller gets a chance to start operating and know what the battery voltage is before it sees the current and voltage from the solar panel, then it can either turn the mosfet transistor on or leave it turned off. It does cause issues within the controller when the solar input is applied before it has been powered up by the battery, quality ones just get confused and need a shut down/reboot, cheap ones just let the smoke out.

T1 Terry

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You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.

Any links to any sites or products is not an endorsement by me or do I gain any financial reward for such links 



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Thank you

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