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Post Info TOPIC: Van battery charging
Rud


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Van battery charging


I have a 1986 Toyota Commuter camper with a Thunderbox house battery box and charger that regulates charging if plugged into 230v ac. (I also have a switch in the cable on the DC side of the charger as it flattens the battery if left connected to the battery after charging and pulling the 230v plug, bad design but nothing to do with this question).

I want to charge the 100 ah lead acid type house battery while travelling by connecting it in parallel with the Bond brand lead acid car battery in the van which is the normal car battery.

I know I can buy an expensive DC to DC converter but want to know if I can just connect the 100 ah battery directly to the car battery (much less than 100 ah, can't look now as it's 10:30 pm and raining).

Both batteries are zero maintenance, I don't know if either are deep cycle types, has anyone tried this succesfully?



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Hi Rud smile

Yes you can do that OK. I do that in my MH. You use a VSR to do the connection, and when the engine starts up and charges the car battery a bit then it switches the second house battery in also. When you shut off the second battery disconnects. Something like this 

 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/302765466775

Of course you need to use some proper size wiring etc. If you drive every day then it is all you need to keep the second battery charged.hmm

Jaahn



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As far as I was aware the best way to charge two batteries is using something  like the redarc system.

https://www.redarc.com.au/wiring-diagrams/the-ultimate-dual-battery-setup

 



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Safe Travels



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Hi Jaahn,

Thanks for that post I think that is way cheaper than the Redarc and does the same job. I'll have to get one for my son..



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Rud


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Thanks very much Jaahn, saved me lots, am going to buy right now ... OK, I'm back, Matson with override switch 140amp $52 with free postage, I have cable and lugs and an Anderon plug to stick into my Thunderbox.
It means I don't have to carry the jumpstarter outfit either as the override can charge the car battery from the house battery (wait 15 minutes) and start the car. What'll they think of next?

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Jaahn wrote:

Hi Rud smile

Yes you can do that OK. I do that in my MH. You use a VSR to do the connection, and when the engine starts up and charges the car battery a bit then it switches the second house battery in also. When you shut off the second battery disconnects. Something like this 

 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/302765466775

Of course you need to use some proper size wiring etc. If you drive every day then it is all you need to keep the second battery charged.hmm

Jaahn


 This is a great product...comes in other generic brand names...been using mine for three years. Very efficient and VERY low cost compared to other systems that do the same job and give the same results. Heavy cabling and Anderson plugs is a must from VSR to house battery/s.



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Cheers, Richard (Dick0)

"Home is where the Den is parked, Designer Orchid Special towed by Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited"

"4x250W solar panels, Epever 80A charger and 3x135Ah Voltax Prismatic LiFePO4 Batteries".



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Hi  smile

Just to clarify these VSRs before some people get their nickers in a twist and start a discussion about how they cannot work because -------

The OP said he has a " 1986 Toyota Commuter camper" and as this has an old fashioned alternator it will work well just like any of the old types of alternators. Newer vehicles that have a variable voltage alternator will need something else. Something expensive from Redarc hmm

When you wire them into the vehicle you need heavy wiring both + & -, and you probably need a higher rated anderson plug than a normal 50A, also, depending on your alternator rating. Might also pay to get the alternator checked over if you rely on it for most of your charging. A 1986 alternator may be getting a bit worn down by now.furious

Cheers Jaahn  



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Just a small correction Jaahn. The alternator you describe as "smart alternator" is no different to any other alternator. The smart part of the business is that the voltage is controlled by the ECU. the pickup being in the negative or earthing wire from the battery to the chassis. In the BT50 and the Ford ranger, the smarts can be turned off if you ask your friendly service manager. In some other cases the "smart system" can be successfully disconnected with no error display on the dash as I have done to my Y62 Patrol and have a constant 14.7 v available to run the fridge in the van and charge van battery system. I also run an auxiliary battery under the bonnet which also receives charging through a VRS.

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Rud


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Pretty sure my alternator is 50 amps, van has done 170,000 gentle kms as a church bus and is about to get some long trips under it's belt, how does Melbourne to Port Macquarie in only 3 or 4 days sound! 5? 6?
New alternator on eBay $120. I have a DC clamp meter I can test the alternator current with next time the house battery is low, maybe even try it with headlights on etc.
Also the alternator has to charge battery 1 to fullness before the VSR allows connection to battery 2.
Any problems I'll add to this post or create a new one because by then this one will be buried in history ...



-- Edited by Rud on Thursday 11th of October 2018 02:27:38 PM



-- Edited by Rud on Thursday 11th of October 2018 02:32:53 PM



-- Edited by Rud on Thursday 11th of October 2018 05:29:02 PM

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Rud


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Wish I had time to not make mistakes in the first place, this editing should not be needed, need another glass.

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Rud wrote:

I have a 1986 Toyota Commuter camper with a Thunderbox house battery box and charger that regulates charging if plugged into 230v ac. (I also have a switch in the cable on the DC side of the charger as it flattens the battery if left connected to the battery after charging and pulling the 230v plug, bad design but nothing to do with this question).

I want to charge the 100 ah lead acid type house battery while travelling by connecting it in parallel with the Bond brand lead acid car battery in the van which is the normal car battery.

I know I can buy an expensive DC to DC converter but want to know if I can just connect the 100 ah battery directly to the car battery (much less than 100 ah, can't look now as it's 10:30 pm and raining).

Both batteries are zero maintenance, I don't know if either are deep cycle types, has anyone tried this succesfully?


 

Hope this info helps in your endeavours...it helped me when I was setting up my Dual VSR...

I think I uploaded this info in the Techies blogs ages ago...

Cheers.

 

 

 



-- Edited by Dick0 on Thursday 11th of October 2018 04:12:24 PM



-- Edited by Dick0 on Thursday 11th of October 2018 04:23:30 PM



-- Edited by Dick0 on Friday 12th of October 2018 09:47:23 AM

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Cheers, Richard (Dick0)

"Home is where the Den is parked, Designer Orchid Special towed by Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited"

"4x250W solar panels, Epever 80A charger and 3x135Ah Voltax Prismatic LiFePO4 Batteries".

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