Hi. We are having trouble with our Truma Model B10/B14 hws. It only works on 240 and not on the gas. It used to be ok but since experiencing a few rough roads we turn the gas hws on but it soon turns off. Yes the bottle was turned on and yes we had removed the cowl. Any ideas? Kim
Hi. We are having trouble with our Truma Model B10/B14 hws. It only works on 240 and not on the gas. It used to be ok but since experiencing a few rough roads we turn the gas hws on but it soon turns off. Yes the bottle was turned on and yes we had removed the cowl. Any ideas? Kim
You have fail to mention the gas tap near the boiler which we turn on and off depending on use.
Second maybe is the temp switch set on high, we did have a faiure here when I switched it to high but found it was working ok on the lower temp which is all you are going to get anyone because of the tempering valve which will lower the temperature to lower then 70 degs.
If there is air in the gas line (like after changing bottles) it can take a dozen or more tries to fire up. Keep trying. It may also help if you light the gas stove to purge some of the air out.
It should not make any difference what temperature it is set to.
14L of water at 70C is more usable hot water than 14L at 60C. Cheers, Peter
-- Edited by Peter_n_Margaret on Saturday 4th of August 2018 03:30:06 PM
Truma hot water systems can give a one a lot of head aches. Ours would start on gas and the flame would go out with red light on. After a lot of soul searching I took the cover frame off and gave the burner a blast of air with a garden blower. Then attached a small piece of hose to the vacumn cleaner to suck out any thing that may be in the burner, and then repeated the process a few time. Then it operated as normal. Their was something stuck in the jets.
Truma HWS need a fully charged battery to start on gas.
No problems on 240v.
Always keep the cover on when no being used on gas.
I have been told that other people had ants in the jets that prevented the flame from lighting.
Hi all thank you but we had done all of the above except blow the burner. Shall try that tomorrow. Everything else checks out. Yes red light comes on to indicate a failure. Hate the thought of going to a gas fitter in Mackay. Most tradesmen here are hopeless and rip off merchants.
Each time I change the bottle I have problems in starting the system
What I do
Start the stove to ensure the gas is through to that point of the line
Remove the outside cover of the water heater
Have the wife listen for the spark (clicking) when I click the switch
Have the wife listen for the gas to start (whoof)
Watch if the red light on the switch comes on
I sometimes find that I may have to try and start it a few times, until the gas is completely through
If as you say, it only stopped working on gas, after driving on rough roads I would be looking to see if something has fell across the gas jet, or piezo lighter
Will you let us all know how you fixed this problem
Each time I change the bottle I have problems in starting the system
What I do
Start the stove to ensure the gas is through to that point of the line
Remove the outside cover of the water heater
Have the wife listen for the spark (clicking) when I click the switch
Have the wife listen for the gas to start (whoof)
Watch if the red light on the switch comes on
I sometimes find that I may have to try and start it a few times, until the gas is completely through
If as you say, it only stopped working on gas, after driving on rough roads I would be looking to see if something has fell across the gas jet, or piezo lighter
Will you let us all know how you fixed this problem
When the hot water system burner would not operate, the stove and the fridge were working OK, so it was not a supply problem.
The burner would light then it would make a clicking noise and go out. Their was a bit of heat at the cover frame.
It happened quite a few times proir to giving it a blow out. The piezo lighter was working as their was some heat being generated prior to the flame stopping.
When it lights it must detect heat from the flame, or it will extinguish the flame
Sounds like something wrong with the thermo coupler thingy, perhaps the rough road has moved it away from the flame
Snip from the above post
When the hot water system burner would not operate, the stove and the fridge were working OK, so it was not a supply problem.
The burner would light then it would make a clicking noise and go out. Their was a bit of heat at the cover frame.
It happened quite a few times proir to giving it a blow out. The piezo lighter was working as their was some heat being generated prior to the flame stopping.
Hi all, we have done all of the suggestions but no still not working. I would love to be confident about calling in an expert but in Mackay I doubt that is possible. I shall keep you informed.
Thanks all for your replies. Kim
Hi all, we have done all of the suggestions but no still not working. I would love to be confident about calling in an expert but in Mackay I doubt that is possible. I shall keep you informed. Thanks all for your replies. Kim
My HWS (not trauma & just straight gas) packed it in a few years ago.
I wrongly diagnosed it as a faulty unit which I replaced only to find that the problem was the gas regulator at the bottle. It was full of crap/the odorant that is put into the gas so that you can detect leaks.
So I just replaced the regulator & all was OK.
ps. The Guy at the gas shop advised that 7 years is about the max that you can expect from a regulator, which was the age of my old one.
pps My symptoms were ... OK on pilot but the main burner wouldn't stay on. (sufficient gas for pilot but not for heater)
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 6th of August 2018 03:10:42 PM