Batteries

GypsyLynda · Veteran Member

Batteries

Geeco · Senior Member

Hi Lynda, Both my batteries went out to lunch while I was out of the country. Today my trusted RVGO service workshop replaced both with new units. The vehicle battery is standard Fiat issue and the habitation battery is a 120 deep cycle unit from Rita, RA12, 120SD. Not cheap but according to the workshop has proved very reliable. Hope this helps.

kesa32 · Senior Member

Hi Lynda, maybe it's just one of your batteries dying, dragging the other one down with it , it'd pay to test them seperately just in case , depending on room , yep you can upgrade the size no worries , depending on your usage, having more is better ( less stress on the batteries if they aren't cycling down as low )
From what lve read gels are more sensitive to charge regimes than flooded or agm batteries , give Bosch a ring and see if they offer any help re discount/ replacing your current ones, otherwise , depending on your budget ( and no luck with Bosch ) grab some new agm's , or lithium's if you can afford decent ones and a charger to suit, full river dc agm's have a great reputation ( and price to match lol )
Good luck !!

-- Edited by kesa32 on Monday 2nd of July 2018 06:26:10 PM

GypsyLynda · Veteran Member

Thank you Im make a note of that! And contact Bosch a good idea!

GypsyLynda · Veteran Member

So AGM and lithium different from Deep CELL? umm. Sounds confusing already! so good quality battery $300 $400???? Just so I have an idea!

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Deep cycle . Your getting battery type, construction mixed up . They last 5 to 7 years . Time flies .. Need to replace batteries unfortunately!! A good regulator, charger keeps them lasting longer . How deep they are discharged between cycles ( full charge to low charge ) overnight etc . Is what shortens battery life ? If your going through batteries ? May need more Amp Hour storage ? Like a Mini motor in a truck . Itâll do it but not for long !!

daffyfrancis · Senior Member

Hi Lynda,

I am not a techie but I think your batteries may not be getting up to full charge ie: from what I understand - starting from 10.5v with the engine running would probably take all day to bring them up to a resting voltage of 13v & with the engine running or solar the float voltage reading should be around 13.8v & if not on float the voltage & whilst charging should be above 14v.

Perhaps a couple of days hooked up to 240v to see if there is an improvement before you buy new batteries as unless you improve you charging capacity by adding more solar or improving the Fiat alternator charging they to might not last very long either.

David

Jaahn · Guru

GypsyLynda wrote:
So AGM and lithium different from Deep CELL? umm. Sounds confusing already! so good quality battery $300 $400???? Just so I have an idea!

Hi Lynda smile

A couple of point for you.

The normal car batteries are for vehicle starting but are not suitable for running the camper 'house' which need a deep cycle type to get a long life. Both are lead acid types and may look similar outside. The battery type information is written on the outside or ask the seller.

The best allround deep cycle type for camper use IMHO are lead acid( LA ) and absorbed glass matt ( AGM ) style. They might be about 200 to 300 up to 400 dollars each depending on where you buy them. Another type of deep cycle lead acid battery is GEL style. I do not believe they are as tolerant of poor usage and this will cause early failure. They are also usually more expensive.

The newest type of house battery is lithium and can work well as deep cycle batteries. However they are very expensive and if not correctly charged and looked after will be in danger of failing early. So I do not recommend you get them unless you want to spend money and get them professionally installed and you system is checked for correct lithium charging.

If your lead acid batteries are not lasting well then you should look at how "hard they are working". If you discharge them below about 50% regularly, eg most nights, their life is shortened. If they do not get charged fully most days their life is shortened. If both happens then you need to do something soon to correct this as you will kill your new batteries too. EG bigger batteries and/or better and longer charging.

It is hard to suggest anything else from my computer keyboard. hmm

Jaahn

-- Edited by Jaahn on Tuesday 3rd of July 2018 04:35:12 PM

daffyfrancis · Senior Member

Hi again Lynda,

What type of fridge/freezer do you have ? If it is 12v/240v/gas are you sure it is switching to gas when you are parked up & not on power ? as they draw way to much power on 12v without the engine running.

David

Warren-Pat_01 · Guru

Hello Lynda,
Have a look at this site www.energymatters.com.au/components/battery-voltage-discharge/ - I refer to it quite a bit as it has the info I require from time to time.

Like the other members mentioned you need to do some checks (perhaps buying a cheap digital multimeter). Check the cleanliness of the terminal posts first - you may need to disconnect a battery as corrosion could be hidden from a quick view. A purpose made wire brush or some sand paper can be used to clean them with.

As seen from the Energy Matters site, you are taking your battery(ies) down lower than 0% capacity (10.5v) with something that is consuming power over night. Batteries can handle being "bashed" for only a short time but in the long term as Jaahn mentioned, they fail & become very expensive to replace. A lady friend of ours gave me her DC battery ("Warren, it's only "new" & cost over $400"). To my first inspection, it was "stuffed"! She'd left it discharged & sitting on a cement floor & was "flat" when she wanted to use it! I managed to bring it back to life over three weeks & using a variety of chargers - the new multistage ones wouldn't touch it as the terminal voltage was less than 3v!

Your fridge-freezer could be culprit - if a three-way & it's running on DC, I'd expect it to kill the battery to zero volts VERY quickly. If the fridge is a battery unit, could you do with turning it off over night & seeing what the voltage is in the morning?

Today, batteries are mostly made overseas & generally show little difference between brands. Traditionally "Start" (high discharge, quick charge) batteries were lead/acid, having thinner plates & you had to monitor the electrolyte levels in them but now they are often a lead/paste-gel & called "Calcium" batteries. Storage (Deep Cycle) batteries are made for long periods of low current draw, slow recharge (have thicker plates). They can be Lead acid, Gel, AGM or now the new kid on the block - Lithium.

I would expect batteries on "float" during the day to be sitting on 13.2 to 13.5v.

If you know a good auto-electrician, get him/her to have a look - it's far better than being stranded out in the never-never!

All the best.

GypsyLynda · Veteran Member

Hi David I have the AES dometic fridge so no I do not run th fridge on Battery wont even allow that! Gas when Free Camping 240 when power and battery on when driving and engine running! So no that wouldnt be running the battery down.

GypsyLynda · Veteran Member

Thank you Warren -Pat! I dont think the gas fridge would be draining the battery overnight! I feel 3 years is todays life of a battery and Ill just bit the bullet and buy 2 new AGM house batteries for my Motor Home. And get back out there free camping and let the solar panels do their thing,

So 13.2 to 13.5 is a good range for a day in sunshine Free camping????

Jaahn · Guru

GypsyLynda wrote:
Thank you Warren -Pat! I dont think the gas fridge would be draining the battery overnight! I feel 3 years is todays life of a battery and Ill just bit the bullet and buy 2 new AGM house batteries for my Motor Home. And get back out there free camping and let the solar panels do their thing,
So 13.2 to 13.5 is a good range for a day in sunshine Free camping????

Hi Lynda smile

I do not think 3 years is the life of a battery. Mine is older than that and I expect more again. If you have a gas/240/12v fridge then that removes the major load from the batteries so you should get better life from them.

That 13.2 to 13.5 v for the batteries needs to be qualified, to be correct. Your solar regulator/controller should have a three stage charging system. In the morning the batteries will be lower but do not go below 50% charge 12.3V. Then the solar will bring the voltage up to 14.2 at least, and hold it there for an hour say, and then the voltage drops to 13.4 in 'float' mode. It will not be charged if it does not get to 14.2 for some time before it drops back to 13.4.

If your batteries get to the full 14.4 by lunch time, stay there for a while, and then drop to float 13.4 before the day finishes the batteries will be charged fully. If the higher voltage is not achieved most days the batteries will not last their proper life. Then you need more solar.

It is not always easy to read these voltages when the system is using power but if you observe them for a while you get to know what is good and when it is low and you can cut back on your power use till the sun shines strong again. When free camping in that ideallic spot the trees will cause shade which can ruin the solar power if you are not careful.

Jaahn

-- Edited by Jaahn on Friday 6th of July 2018 09:10:40 AM