bt50 suspension vs Mazda

Mr Growly · Newbie

bt50 suspension vs Mazda

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Yes nothing really wrong with the vehicles . Just they BS there constant weight ability !! Sales talk . Good on you . There was nothing wrong with the money you paid them !

Desert Dweller · Guru

Has your bull bar fallen off yet, lots of peoples has on rough roads?

Apparently the mounts for the bar can't stand the weight & vibration on unmade roads.

Lots of Bt50s seen carrying their bull bars on the roof rack on the Gibb River Road.

Mr Growly · Newbie

hi Guru, just went with the nudge bar to keep the weight down and haven't really given the ute a huge workout at this stage, but thanks for the tip.

Ge · Senior Member

Hi Mr Growly

Good on you, stick with it and please keep us posted on the outcome and future findings.
This is very interesting " When will big business realize a bit of good will doe's heaps of free publicity ".

Regrds Ge from W.A

iana · Guru

I have a BT50, and new that the rear springs weren't up to the job. Had Pedders fit theirs springs and shocks to the rear end. Have yet to check it out fully loaded, but now with the van on it sits nice and level. The replacement springs come at a cost called comfort when it is unloaded. As for a bulbar, the wife wants one fitted, but I want to put the rig over the weigh-bridge first to see where we are at weight wise first.

PeterD · Guru

Tore, did you measure the rear axle on its own? How did that figure compare with maximum allowable rear axle weight. I feel you may be a little overweight in that area.

Slide-on units that overhang the rear tend to be chassis breakers. You will need to slow right down on rough stuff and cattle grids. Bent chassis are not confined to twin cabs.

PeterD · Guru

iana wrote:
As for a bulbar, the wife wants one fitted, but I want to put the rig over the weigh-bridge first to see where we are at weight wise first.

If weight is a problem then consider a Smartbar. They are lighter and are considered to be better than a steel one.

macka17 · Guru

If you're serious about doing OFF Main roads and tracks (Corrugations ) etc.

Get in b4 it happens IT DOES... Chassis bends,cracks.

Get on net and check with forums.

Calculate "where" on the chassis rails it tends to crack\bend.
and get it reinforced.
They ALl have weak spots.

Most of us tend to Tow with them, not carry
so it doesn't bother the majority of (old fart) owners.
Plus.

If that model has Coil rear springs.
Look at King, they do "Progressive Rate" coils.
With EFS XTR, Shocks to match.

I used them on my last 4 veh's, Towing large vans round Aust.
VERY impressed and comfortable.

Just Tell them the "constant" load carried. Single\dual cab.
and the coils will be set to carry that load at req'd height. with the top coils being progressive.
IE. SOFTER ride first part. Full load ride the remainder.

EFS "XTR" shocks 2in lift. There r several models. Elite fine for this.
and you'll have a good riding vehicle everywhere.

IF you lift car 2 inches?. ALWAYS buy shocks with 2 in lift MORE than
the actual lift. to stop them opening up to stops.

Just don't take the camper off and go bush.
Those coils will flip you sideways.
They designed for carrying. NOT OFF-road work.

Those Progressive coils are better for 99% of Heavy duty vehicles.
Give a much softer ride till load added. with NO susp SAGGING when you do.

Tends to negate 70%ish of the "hard" ride you get
with full strength susp set for 1 ton'ish..

PS. I've tried others over the yrs. Pedder are good car springs as are Dobinson.
Buk King have better ride rep with the 4wd's.
as do EFS. A lot of serious Rally drivers use their top model.

-- Edited by macka17 on Wednesday 12th of July 2017 12:53:52 PM

Footprints · Senior Member

Having a load of rocks is really no comparison As all the weight is very much above the spring mounts where as a Slideon creates a lot of leverage action to the load supported area and on uneven or corrugated roads the actual load being transferred to the suspension would be considerably greater than the measured static load when stationary. The risks of a cracked chassis as stated by others is very real. Having operated a Tow bar and all accessories related to towing for a number of years, I have seen it all. One common occurrence which used to happen to family sedans doing a lot of Horse float towing, the floor pan would stretch until the rear doors would not close and latch. To solve that issue the standard type tow bar had to incorporate bracing forward to the area under the rear seat so that the load and strain was transferred forward of the axle centre. In my opinion your situation is quite similar albeit different. I hope that you get a good outcome and no further problems. God luck.

Cheers Allen

Mr Growly · Newbie

WAHOO!!!! Mazda came through with the complete cost for my rear suspension today, so it was worth holding out for the almost $1700. Thanks for all the input given I will certainly take it onboard.

Thanks Peter, yes it is slightly over on the rear axle weight but only about 5kgs. I'll go ahead with the new leaf springs and shocks. I've heard different things, and some people say that the extra spring leaves only click in with the extra weight like helper springs, and this makes the ride not much different unloaded. Then there are those like Iana (thanks for the feedback) who say the ride is noticeably rougher...I'll discuss further with Pedders, who tell me it should be fine if the new shocks are matched to the springs. (obviously they have a vested interest.) Bottom line is that I don't see that I have much option.

Thanks for your advice too Allen and Macka. The heavy part of the traytek camper is in front of or on the axle and the overhang is pretty light being only the back door that is lowered when camping. But I will be careful not to do too much hard driving with the load on and take it steady on the bumps. Might look into the reinforcing angle as well.

So thanks to you all again. It's been a long and frustrating road dealing with Mazda but they finally rolled over and paid up.

Cruising Cruze · Guru

Hi Tore

Good on you to win from Mazda not many people do

Regards John

iana · Guru

Mr Growly, I keep telling people "you can't have something for nothing" there is always a trade off. Yes I went through all that, took in my weight estimates and I think what you are intending fitting, is what I have got. The rear end is still hard, and its got to be hard to take the extra weight that we (I) require off the back. My aim is to carry max weight in the tug, and not have it in the van, that way the tug will always be heavier than the van. On the Pedder suspension, there are 4 grease nipples, just make sure someone puts grease in them every now and then.
I went in the other day to get an oil leak fixed, Mazda told me I will have to have a new engine, new loan ute supplied, new engine fitted, no cost to me, now that's pretty good service.

macka17 · Guru

Glad you got good results.

Look past Pedder though.
There ARE a lot better out there.
They alright for cars.

If you have leaf rears.
Think about leaves to suit 1\2 the load, so you won't be too
stiff when camper not on there.
With either Half leaf Helpers (Ironman) Or braced chassis and Airbags inflated to suit.

Mine.
I have the std rears with EFS shocks and Iroman 1\2 leaves.

Tray loaded. Tinny on. 535 tandem van on back,
D-Max travels nicely road and corrugations.
The little I've done with this rig so far. And not too bouncy when empty.

Personally. For towing I'd pick a coil susp veh.
Carrying. I'd pick a leaf sprung unit.
with Mod's to suit.

Contact Ironman. King. EFS. O.M.E(emu). Koni, Bilstein. Tough Dog.
suspension dealers too.
Before Committing..
Competition gear is always sturdier than average 4wd stuff.
More experience at building them to last.

I was in competition, and touring for yrs. (50plus)
Not too many I've talked to, ran Pedders under them.