Son of mine just snapped a towball on his light truck towing a 3000kg twin axle trailer. Luckily it happened as he was slowing from 100 down to 70 coming in to Warra out west of Dalby. The Warrego highway out that way is all up and down and broken drawbars on trailers/vans are not uncommon.
Happened with a sudden bang and then the trailer swaying side to side almost tipping on each sway. Fortunately it seems that the safety chains prevented the drawbar digging into the road which probably would have snapped the chain, however after he stopped he found the drawbar was touching the ground, maybe the chains stretched?
I am advised by an engineer that if you ever have tow ball come loose then replace the the tow ball. They will eventually break because the crystallization has begun.
Neil
I had a similar thing happen to me many moons back, Denis. I had only just got my then Avan Camper Trailer and heading off on my first weekend breakdown trip when 'BANG'. Now only my dry cleaner and myself knew how I reacted. On getting out of the tug I noticed camper sitting on chains and tow ball still attached to coupling on camper but not tug. The thread section had rusted through unknowns to me and snapped. I was paranoid of the camper coming off for many moons after that.
My fault. At the time and for many moons had car parked with Base Strait sea air blowing on back of tug. Big lesson there. Change tow ball on regular basis. I am currently thinking of changing mine over now after nearly 3 years on tug and around water a lot. I have checked it every 6 months or so though. It will get changed before I leave Townsville.
__________________
Live Life On Your Terms
DOUGChief One Feather (Losing feathers with age)
TUG.......2014 Holden LT Colorado Twin Cab Ute with Canopy
DEN....... 2014 "Chief" Arrow CV (with some changes)
Personally I hate towballs, too many never see any maintenance, and they are liable to snap and also come apart from the Tow hitch. It was the reason I turned to the McHitch, Tow separate ways to keep secure. The screw down ratcheted lock and the grooved pin.
You're correct blaze, the nut was tightened with a long breaker bar so was initially tight so the nut had either loosened or the bolt part of the ball stretched...and yes, lack of maintenance. I just went out and had a closer look and found one of the chains had snapped but not totally - see pic. Also another pic of the setup as it ended on the road. It's all a bit sobering to say the least.
Simple solution. I change my ball (on Hyland. and others) every coupla yrs. $20-30. What the hell. Long neck Chromed.
For what we do. Balls are fine. Those fancy ones just cost more. and do same job??.. We have just returned
Hi Macka,
You just beat me to saying the same thing We have just returned home from a 15000 klms trip and the first thing I am going to do is replace the tow ball. For the cost of $25. it will be the $$$$ I could spend.
It is said that the tow ball should be changed every 12 months, so give your self a Christmas present every December.
For me this year it will be Christmas in July present.
Check BEFORE every trip.
It's No different to tyres and lights\brakes.
Have TWO Tensile. or rated lifting link chains to suit van weight.
PLUS. Snatching load.
Have chains at length that drawbar can NOT touch the ground if not on ball.
AND ALWAYS..ALWAYS. CROSS THE CHAINS.
Plus.Shackles should be rated. Not Bunnings specials.
I use 3 to 3.5ton normally. with usually around 10mm link chains.
Lighter with smaller vans. (This ^^ one, rated 3.2 ton on tyres.)
I've seen a van come loose with people around. Not nice.
If not a double rail Off Roader type Drawbar.
ALSO check that where it goes under front of chassis too.
For flex and cracks.
You'll be surprised.
PS.
I wonder how many here will look under their ball in morning. and see a flat washer. or none.
If not changing it.
Unscrew nut. clean threads. regrease..
NEW spring washer. and tighten.
If you strong. a full length that sized ringie will give enuff tension.
Otherwise a Torque wrench. They not very exxy.
A long bar\tube, CAN. Over tension the threads.
and force a crack line in reduced dia, threaded shaft.
Or, start a strip of threads in nut.
Too tight can actually be as dangerous as too loose.
The Proper wrench does for wheel nuts. bearings. all sorts of things.
I'm still using (and it fairly accurate against scales) after 20 odd yrs.
cost me all of $45. cash.....
