Next week I pick up a Jayco Stargazer caravan, 2010 Model. This is all the detail I have, at the moment.
I have an anderson Plug wired direct from my Tug battery, via a Redarc Isolator, so that the tug is only supplying power when the vehicle ignition is turned on.
I have just had a 12 pin plug wired to my vehicle, using the Jayco configuration. I now notice that the 12 pin also provides 12 volt supply, direct from the Tug battery, and is not isolated nor turned off when the ignition is switched off.
My question is ;- Can I still use the Anderson Plug to run the Van fridge, whilst the Van and Tug are connected. OR should only use the 12 supply??
Finally, if I am only to use the 12 pin supply, to run the fridge, how should I isolate the supply when parked? By the way, the van also has a 12 volt battery supply on board, which I am hoping is provided by a solar panel.
Firstly, I wouldn't use the 12 pin supply to run the fridge, I would say straight up that the wires would be too small to carry the current used by the fridge regardless of if it's a Compresser type or Gas/Electric.
I would suggest that you isolate the internal wiring from the fridge from the rest of the van's wiring to ensure it can't use the 12 pin supply.
Since the van has it's own battery I would suggest you run the fridge from that and use the anderson connection from the tug to charge the van's battery whilst your driving. You may need to do that via a DC to DC charger depending on how the tug is set up. This should be set up so the charging only takes place whilst the engine is running to ensure the tug's start battery doesn't go flat.
Hope this helps
Regards Steve.
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Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
Keiron, I assume the fridge you are discussing is a 3 way fridge, not just 12v?
The large pins on the Narva 12 pin plug are rated at 35A.
However I would suggest you have a heavy duty 7 pin round plug/socket and use the Anderson plug for heavy current. I am using the 12 pin plug/socket and since I have a 12v fridge it is quite adequate, but in hindsight I wish I had the Anderson plug.
If its not too late, try to get the stronger wiring so it charges your van battery as well. (as Steve suggested above) If I'd known anything about that before getting the Anderson plug put on mine, I'd have done this at the same time as it was an expensive job and a shame to have to do it all over again.
Have the 6 pin Flat plug for van wiring. with a 50a Anderson,
Straight from Car from dual controller to van battery.
Every van I've had.
I always run a heavy wire UNDER the van from van Battery to connector\fuse,
where 12v wiring goes into fridge.
That way you have full output from VAN battery.
and it won't\Can't, drain car batt when stopped.
NEVER have fridge connected to car.
Solar on roof. You covered.
Look and see if there's a regulator on wall and a shufty up on the roof.
See what and how many panels. if any. And always.
A genny to cover your arse.. ALWAYS.
If fridge a 3 way.
Put that money aside for a Waeco type.
There's NO. Absolutely NO comparison.
Even if you keep 3 way in van as acooler.
and a Waeco 50ltr whatever., in rear of tug as a freezer.
I use an 80ltr.
we started off with the chalk boxes with water hole on top for evaporation
when we first did it.
and netting over fruit box cupboard,
dipped in big bowl of water on top.
Then Ice boxes.
then 3 ways.
Finally.
PROPER fridges. Compressor.
NEVER looked back.
There is a little isolator thing you can wire in.
which trips out power from Battery when volts reach a set minimum.
But with solar it should be ok with enuff panels.
Your fridge will run far better directly from your isolator than from the battery in the van connected to the no 12 pin as has been suggested.
You will need to check what size wiring supplies the fridge. If it is 6B&S then separate it from the 12 pin plug and add an Anderson plug to receive the power from your start battery through the isolator.
Fridges run noticeably better when wired directly to the start battery,regardless of the so called 35 amp rating of the plug.There was a picture posted some time ago on another forum showing the resultant effect over time when running the fridge from pin 12. It was partially melted around the 12 pin inside. Remember,resistance means heat. Hope this helps . P 03
Hi Kieron.
I have a 3 way fridge and only run it from the car battery whilst the car is running.
The van battery runs the fridge electronics which only uses a small amount of power.
If I am going to be stationary for a long period of time when I' am travelling I run it on gas and 240 volt when I' am hooked up to power.
If you want further details private message me and I will talk to on the phone.
There are numerous ways to run van electrics, and I'd guess the people who installed your CTEK didn't discuss with you how the system would work. And I'd also guess you didn't tell them how you wanted it to operate.
Without knowing how or where the CTEK was installed, I'd suggest you go back to the installer (if possible) and ask them to change the wiring to the way you want it.
My Anderson plug only feeds the fridge element when I'm driving and goes dead when I stop. The van battery powers the fridge control panel all the time, even when the car is disconnected. I don't have a DC/DC charger, but if I did I wouldn't want it to do anything else but keep the van battery full. That's probably a system like you would like, but you may need a leco to fix it for you.
