Hi all.

Many of us have to tour around on a low budget. If you have tinkering/handyman skills and $10-12,000 available you can build a caravan to spread your wings. Here I'll explain the errors and the positive decisions made 12 months after I built our van and having completed a "lap?" last winter.

The project was- build a van the lightest possible GVM under 750kgms so no brakes were required (a budget remember in all areas), 2 single beds, shower/toilet combo, kitchenette and awning. Steel frame for strength (I have no alloy experience), solar etc.

I chose 10" wheels with 5-10 tyres. Better to have 12" if possible. But 10" are ok. Weight of a 13" wheels with tyres is 8 kg heavier than 10" with tyre. Times 3 = 24kg saving

Straight trailer axle. Drop axle was considered but it lowers the van and there are consequences..door can hit portable step, gutter clearance,  less room for tanks etc. Straight was better.

Leaf springs. There was no issue with them at all.

Chassis, my biggest mistake. I built the drawbar with a bend in it where the floor begins to rise that created a weak point. The Qld roads pounded it. It was rewelded at Tambo then W&W welding at Cloncurry made a permanent job of it with fishtail plates. The intention was to put more items on the drawbar like the spare wheel as well as the tool box. Now I know a drawbar should go straight from the front spring shackle to the tow hitch. The frame 20mm angle for the corner edges and 13mm square tube for the frame was spot on. I purchased a gasless MIG for this and it worked a treat from ebay $150. The auto solar welding mask was good value.

The single beds were framed in 2x1 pine and are 6'4" long. I'm 6' and I'd prefer 6'8" long bed. Too late now. So we have inserted a sponge piece between the beds at the end so I can sleep on a slight angle.

Downlights- 4 of, no problem. They look good. A marine 6 point light switch was a good purchase.

Carpet ceiling, glue it in cool temps. We glued it during the day and some of the glue cured before we could man handle it onto the ply backing. Bubbles are there and its annoying. Has to be redone.

We purchased an acrylic shower wall from Bunnings and cut it to size. Nylon shower screen. Our plan was no hot water. We have a basket nearest the tow hitch that accommodates a camping solar hot water bag. It heats as we travel. Either that or boil a billy. Place the warm water in a bucket and onto the top of the portapotti. Camping submersible shower and half a bucket is enough for a shower. A toilet within two steps of bed is also priceless. Another good move was the large square hatch on the side of the toilet for ease of removal. No balancing act down steps.

Vent ?...get one with a fan. We found it great.

Kitchen, We have a Waeco CF18 fridge/freezer. It?s a little thirsty on battery power but the right size for us?just. Kitchen sink was a 1.5 kg acrylic single one. 700x290mm is a good compact size. Two fold down benches. Lightweight plastic drawers for utensils found in a $2 shop that clip in as to not come out when travelling 2x $30 only. We are now putting in an overhead shelf for plates and bowls, saucepans. A van 3.3 metres long you need to utilise all space.

Water- 2x88 litres tanks. We started with 44 litres, not enough. We have 2x 12Volt pumps with one way valves. One for the shower one for the sink. Single butane gas cooker for outdoors cooking only double would be better.

Solar- We started with 1 x 120W roof panel, 1 x 100 amp battery.. No battery charging from the car as we wanted to be able to swap cars around. With a CPAP and fridge, mobile chargers and the occasional TV and set top box it wasn't enough. At Mt Isa we bought a 90W portable solar panel. With the next 10 weeks putting it up and down when we got home we mounted it on the front of our van out of the way. Its detachable but likely I will leave it there. The system is now enough to cope. However, we bought a 12amp smart charger when we are in Cparks to top it all up nicely which was about once every 6 days. Free camps was enjoyable.

Storage is under both single beds with outside access, proved enough. Chairs, we are both big people so we got 150kg chairs. Glad we installed large hatches, the larger the better to get these and a table in and out.

Awning- Designing a small van with too much front slope limits the width of an awning.  So a balance between aerodynamics and wall top length was sort. We added a 2.4M wide x 2.2M long Fiamma bag awning and one side wall.  Side wall is a necessity IMO. Quality of the awning is ok. The legs go into the end roll, good idea but you need two to erect it. With a rear door we didn't want to walk around angled frame bars.

Exterior wall mounted  1 metre  wide table was utilised a lot and worth their money. Mark with pencil your studs before you clad. Makes it easier.

Insulation is polystyrene 13mm same thickness as the tube. Worked well.

Leg supports. I bought the ones with wheels. Saves the worry with gutters, van just rolls on them. I welded extensions so finding the attachement is not a problem bending over all the time.

Door. Rear door is best as side door takes up valuable sitting space under the small awning and can rub on the awning material.  Think I'll put a fold down mini awning though over the door as heavy rain is a pain without one. We lashed out and bought a Carac door with flyscreen etc. No regrets.

Insurance.- hunt around. I got a online quote with 6 photos and a description. Valued at $22,000 and insured for that. I'm happy.

Weight- Van tare came in at 450 kg leaving 299 kg for the load (300 max for single axle) which was perfect. But when registering it I put down 700kg as the GVM thinking I wouldn't load it up over that- wrong. Amazing how much stuff one takes. I will get another comp plate with 749kg stamped and return to Vicroads. As I'm the manufacturer I can get it changed with little issue.

Ball weight-  A very light 52kg loaded, 32kg without the camping shower bag full. I installed a friction anti sway device. The van wont sway at all even with road trains coming the other way.

So what would I have done differently?

 Maybe 12" wheels, Straight drawbar, Magnetic brakes, Roof aircon, 240V wired and inspected by the electrician at frame stage.

That would likely be say 600kg tare, 899kg GVM. It would be safer with the brakes, cooler in the heat and I?d tow it with a car rated to tow it.

The Hyundai i30 diesel towed it at 90kph with around 9 L/100km and 5.2 L/100 kms not towing (manual). Total cost less than $2000 for the 13 week journey ( just the coastal roads). I thought I covered all bases but the i30 is rated unbraked at 500kg (oops) and 1200kg braked. So we will tow it with our JBA Falcon V6 Buick powered convertible from now on.

Handy with a welder? Try building your own van. It took me 12 weeks. $12,000 and this basic form of travel is fun and economical.

Cheers Tony