last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
Hi
Every small 12ry Air compressor should have that as an instruction.
Is not a compressor that blows 40 A fuses on start up (whether or not connected to the tyre) faulty? The fact that it started OK when you first got it tells me it is now faulty. Time to challenge for a replacement.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Is not a compressor that blows 40 A fuses on start up (whether or not connected to the tyre) faulty? The fact that it started OK when you first got it tells me it is now faulty. Time to challenge for a replacement.
Hi Peter
Yes, it could well be faulty, NOW , from repeated heavy overloads[ stalled motor] from trying to start under FULL loads
Hi John
It is just common sense to not start ANY electric motor under full load, if that can be avoided
.
Under those conditions the inrush ,starting, current will be far, far above normal running current, A well recognised FACT!!
Wear factors also come into the equation, but not as a claim under warranty for being fauly
Another factor that could affect starting ability AND fuse blowing, is voltage drop[ low voltage @ the motor],due to bad connections,leading to Insufficient POWER for the motor to get over the compression stroke, stalled motor,with current only limited by winding resistance .
NO BACK EMF generated!!
Normally connection of a compressor connector will not initially create pressure within the hose as there is no mechanism to actuate the tyre valve (with the cam lever-lock). Agree with John, Compressor Faulty
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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
I have a 16 yr old Blue Tongue Compressor wired with a Fused 40 amp relay connected to a 20 litre truck air tank and 60 psi pressure switch (60 psi cut in/ 120 psi cut off). Never have a problem with fuses, but I have seen quite a few of the newer cheap type so called Heavy Duty compressors having trouble blowing fuses and melting the built-in switches. This is caused by the combination of Too Smaller wiring gauge, light duty 240 volt type switches(Not Suitable for Heavy DC Current ie 20 to 40 plus amps) and also Fuse Holders Not Capable of Handling the High Current Draw and Heat created in the Smaller type Wedge Fuse Holders.
I have a 16 yr old Blue Tongue Compressor wired with a Fused 40 amp relay connected to a 20 litre truck air tank and 60 psi pressure switch (60 psi cut in/ 120 psi cut off). Never have a problem with fuses, but I have seen quite a few of the newer cheap type so called Heavy Duty compressors having trouble blowing fuses and melting the built-in switches. This is caused by the combination of Too Smaller wiring gauge, light duty 240 volt type switches(Not Suitable for Heavy DC Current ie 20 to 40 plus amps) and also Fuse Holders Not Capable of Handling the High Current Draw and Heat created in the Smaller type Wedge Fuse Holders.
Hi Kevin
Yes, undersized cables or extended cables can lead to starting problems under load,,as can low battery voltage or bad connections
If the motor does not start, the stalled the current is only limited by the circuit resistance, as low as 0.1 of an ohm with larger heavy duty 12V compressors
That is why I STILL say the pump may not be fauity!!
Normally connection of a compressor connector will not initially create pressure within the hose as there is no mechanism to actuate the tyre valve (with the cam lever-lock). Agree with John, Compressor Faulty
Hi
Strange ,EVERY 12V compressor I have had & that is many , over many many years ,puts TYRE air pressure back into the hose right up to the compressor,immediately that the pump connector is pushed onto the valve stem.
The Motor has to start under pressure, under those circumstances, very high currents, far above running currents
Are you suggesting that it is AIR pressure from the pump that depresses the tyre valve??
last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
Hi
Suggest you check all connections for heat,& check voltage at each connection
Well, I'll be. Just this morning I checked the van's tyres in its shed and had trouble with the 12v compressor. No instructions re starting the compressor first, but did that anyway when the compressor kept cutting out and....bingo!...added a little air to the tyres on the van after the trouble with the spare. Just another reason to get on here and find information you didn't know you needed.
Well, I'll be. Just this morning I checked the van's tyres in its shed and had trouble with the 12v compressor. No instructions re starting the compressor first, but did that anyway when the compressor kept cutting out and....bingo!...added a little air to the tyres on the van after the trouble with the spare. Just another reason to get on here and find information you didn't know you needed.
Hi Kev
As I said, best to ALWAS DO IT THAT way
It takes a very heavy start current off the switch,varies with motor, but could easily be 10times running current, even worse for the switch when switching OFF ,due to arcing ,plus less load on motor & fuses !!!
