I was just reading the post of a fellow traveler and was informed that he changes the oil in his Tug every 5000km. My Prado service is every 10000km which of course includes an oil and filter change. I have always been interested in oils and how often.
Is 5000km oil changes benificial in these days of synthetic and semi synthetic oils which is what I'm told is being put into my Prado ?
Can Oil changes be extended beyond 10000km and not be detrimental to the motor ?
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Made Beer Bottles for 44 years..... Now.... just test them.
Personally, I have always changed the engine oil and engine oil filter every 5,000Km in the Toyota's (and a Hyundai Terracan) that I had owned, despite the 'recommended' 10,000Km interval stated in the Owner's Manual. That is because these vehicles were owned while I was still a 'worker' so they were used for short trips to and from work, and weekend bush trips - usually fairly serious 4x4 conditions.
However, you will notice in the Owner's Manual that it is 'recommended' that oil changes be more frequent under 'arduous' conditions. I believe towing a heavy trailer/van falls under 'arduous' conditions.
I now own a Land Rover Discovery 3 - oil changes 'recommended' at 12,000Km. I change the engine oil and engine oil filter every 6,000Km as I am towing a 2,600Kg van - on the road full-time.
Given the low cost of oil and filters I believe this is the cheapest insurance to give the motor every chance to perform reliably with longevity. I also change the oil in the auto transmission, diffs and transfer box every 40,000Km. Again cheap insurance.
Despite the so-called longevity of synthetic oils, I would prefer to give the engine the best oil to operate in.
Cheers - John
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2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto - 2008 23ft Golden Eagle Hunter Some people feel the rain - the others just get wet - Bob Dylan
If you run a diesel engine the soot and particulates are scavenged by the oil so by 5000km even with synthetic oils the filter and oil are starting to load up. Make a goal of 5000 for oil and filter and you will save in the long run with a cooler running engine and reduced engine wear. Last year I went to the Kimberley and back on a short holiday (8000k) and knew I wouldn't get time for an oil change so ran full synthetic instead of semi synthetic (70 series V8 recommended is normal mineral) 200 series and other newer Toyota's use full synthetic but I bet they still load up with soot same as mine.
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Brian & Nada retired and > "Ready to live the Dream" Live in the Shire!
76 series V8 Landcrab with Jayco Starcraft Outback Poptop
I don't see any point in changing oil and filters more often than the manufacturer's recommendation.
Filters are there to remove excess particulate matter. Make sure you use quality ones.
Oil typically lasts much longer than the manufacturer's recommendation. They are conservative by nature.
Oil can be tested for breakdown and contamination.
I change oil and filters myself every 10,000km. Takes about 20 minutes. Much cheaper than paying some kid to do it for $100 per hour, or more, plus margin on the bits.
I drive a v6 3.8 Pajero and the dealer recommends every 15000 but I have since new done every 10000 with good quality non synthetic oil which is designed to operate in LPG vehicles and I also only use quality filters.
As a point of interest when I am running almost exclusively on lpg I find that at 10000klm the oil is still clear and it feels like there is still plenty of viscosity but still do the change.
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On long interstate trips I usually go longer or closer to manu specs as long continuous driving is much better with way less cold starts .. I find although I often tow a trailer . It's the terrain and driving that tells on being tough on engine etc.. Also have to consider the capacity of some sumps . Mine is 14 litres with external oil cooler .. Changing oil is easy though . Purchasing oil in 15 or 20 litre drums is ok considering the amount ..
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Monday 7th of December 2015 10:00:00 PM
The hand book say to change the oil at 48,000 km or every 12 months and must use the expensive Petronas Selenia Motor oil. (they do not even recommend a first month service like I have had with new cars I have owned)
I have questioned this many time from Fiat, the Fiat dealer forums etc but am told it is correct.
My first service at 12 months was done at 10,000 km
I do not think I would be game to trust the oil to last 48,000 km
FWIW.. 15 years ago I was operating Subaru 2.2 ltr engines in my gyrocopters. These engines run 5400 max on take off and cruise around 5100. I was training people to fly and was doing around 150 engine hours per year. I was changing the mineral oil and filter at 25 hours as per manual. I would find that the oil pressure had deteriorated 5 psi by 25 hours. I decided to try the dearer fully synthetic oil and would find no deterioration of oil pressure by 50 hours when I changed oil and filter.
Pics below show VW powered in 1983, Rotax 2 stroke 1990, and Subaru for the cabin machines. In 2004 I flew the red cabin machine from Ballarat to Alice Springs and back for our Gyroplane Nationa Championships
Aussie Paul.
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Monday 7th of December 2015 12:40:42 PM
Of more importance I would suggest is getting them to put the right GRADE of oil in when serviced and then follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
We just had diff pinion bearings replaced in 79eries LC ute due to suspected wrong grade diff oil being used.
I remember having a service in western QLD in 2010 and found the gearbox was much easier to change gears when cold - BUT was the correct grade oil used. Probably not as I now have the correct grade and it's back to "normal" ie harder to change until it warms up a bit.
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
Just change the oil / filters at manufacturers recommendations whether it be distance or time. However harsh conditions may mean a service is required more regularly. This may also be noted in the handbook.
Have a Maverick 4.2 Diesel with twin oil filters (standard) and at around 5000k's put 300ml of nulon engine oil flush in and run for around 15min then change oil using Valvoline 15w40 & filters.
Wipe out where the filters are mounted put some oil on the new filters seal and replace, then, leave the Mav with sump plug out for min 24 hrs
Now I have been doing this since day 1 and the oil is still clear good on the dip stick up to around 1200km.
On a trip up to Moree from Newcastle a few years ago I dropped into a garage there for fuel and there was still good old fashion driveway service
Ol' mate says he'll check the oil and water and clean the windscreen (miss that service these days)
I come out of the toilet to him saying "mate you have big problems" I was immediately worried but calmed down after he next said "you don't have any oil in the motor"
Well the week before I left for my trip I did my usual oil change and the bloke was thinking and said this is a diesel there should be black oil on the dip stick
So I showed him there was oil and it was at the right spot on the dip stick only it was clean and hard to see, he was a bit dumbfounded by it all.
There is over 330,000 Km's on the old Mav and it has never caused any issues through regular and preventative maintenance to date.
My last 8 years of my working life driving semi trailers in south east Qld the company that I worked for had 22000ks service program on its local fleet.
My own vehicle gets serviced at 10000 just so I can have a cooked breakie spend time with my young nephew and listen to all the lastest motoring news while he make sure I don't need a spanner between services.
Synthetic oils are so much better today then the old oils of yesterday.
Can someone please define the over used term "Quality Filter" They are all made to the same spec and apart from the thread and housing seals contain the same filter paper. As other have said changing a filter be it fuel or engine oil is not a difficult task but can be a bit messey if you rush at it .
Because filters come in their own housing and you can't see the internals service workshops try to make you believe there is a different filter paper for each and every vehicle . If you want to go brain dead get a filter cattle dog and just note the cross reference numbers and the old stand Z9 fits the majority of Australian vehicles but has a heap of other number cross referenced to it that fit many other units .
I just take mine to the local service center and get it done, not all that costly in the scope of things
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