Tidy install. What is 380 mA? Is that about one third of one amp? Cheers Pete

Sounds like you have done a good job with satisfactory results.

Perhaps you could finish up by checking that there are no areas around or on top of the fridge casing where hot air can accumulate.  Fix that if there is a problem with wads of extra insulation material or even a physical barrier as well, to block the air from flowing around the fridge casing.

Then off to the tropics in summer to test it out & as a precaution take an Engel for your essential supplies.   A short lesson for the missus on using an absorption fridge (ie. keeping the door open for the shortest possible time) might be a good idea, if you are game.

A good choice of fan Brian... the 120mm fan will spin at a lower RPM than the standard 80mm computer fans, therefore generating less noise... while (in most cases) moving more air. The 1/3 amp current draw is negligible. A good install...

Cheers
Greg

People try fitting the fans down below the Cooling Assy but Most Times this causes Pressure flow in and around the Fridge walls which usually have a large gap around allowing even More Hot Air to affect the Fridge.Some older vans with 90 litre fridges don't even have a Louvre from the Top/Upper Rear edge of the Fridge to the Top of the Upper vent as advised by the Fridge Manufacturers causing even More Heat in Air Gap above the Fridge. Where you fitted the Fan is the Prime position for effective evacuation of Hot Air from the surrounds of the Fridge cabinet area. I tried the Let fan on our last 3way fridge van (didn't work effectively) then fitted dual 90mm fans zip tied to the Upper vent ,very successful. I also have a manually switched 80mm fan fitted internally on the top shelf pushing Cold air down and around the Fridge, definitely helps with quicker and more even internal temps in the Fridge compartment.

Good job.

I fitted a second fan 180ma computer type/size from Jaycar to ours (12V unit not 3 way) at compressor to improve airflow. Doesn't run as long now so good outcome.

briche wrote:

---

Hi Baz421. That modification has been around now for awhile with mainly good results. i added a further mod 12 months ago and it improved the situation even better. By blocking off the output vent either side of the fan it improves the air flow across the evaporator tubes.

For example I tested the air coming in thru the bottom vent before and after. Before by hanging a sheet of A4 pepper in front of the bottom vent it would only just move it but after the mod it would pull the paper to the vent and hold it there.

quite noticeable improvements with the operation of the fridge.

 

one other mode to consider is to fill the gap around the fridge with insulation, helps to keep hot air reaching the fridge. 

one further point to watch, check that the gap above the fridge is no more than 30 mm otherwise the hot air from the rear of the fridge will fill that void and make it harder to cool. If the gap is too great, once agin fill it it insulation.

 

hope all that helps. I have a better fridge now than I did before. I just realize I forgot to tell you what my fridge is, it's a dometic, 3 way.

All the best

Brian.

---

Yes I did my first mod years ago when you had to wreck a PC to get a fan, now they are everywhere.

I too am considering your suggestion re blocking off the side gaps and only using the van in/out vents on the side.

Was 40 deg C yesterday and fridge was much more efficient.

Thanks for tips. 

KevKim37 wrote:

---

The larger 220 litre, 12 volt Compressor, Waeco White 2 door fridge/freezer is built with a 90mm computer fan fitted near the Compressor ex factory. The only change I did with that was turn fan around so it was Blowing Air over the Compressor and Not sucking it away from the unit.

---

Strange that it was the opposite direction. Our Vitrifugo has a Danfoss compressor and the original fan blew across condenser cooling fins and toward compressor. The second fan I fitted boosted what was a weak airflow. 

This is a site showing another mod for the same problem.I like the fans he suggests ,Magnetic levitation bearings Very smooth and quite

www.dreampod.net/boroma/fridgefan.html

I wasn't making any judgement OUTBACK MK just showing another way to" skin the cat " so as to speak
Cheers
DT

Thanks for the link DT Jade46. It presents everything in a simply manner.

(Previously nobody ever mentioned if the fans were at the bottom or top - ie; did they suck or blow - nor exactly where or how thermostats were installed.)

Anyway, I have begun ordering stuff. First items are stainless steel cable ties - reasoning that the heat of the pipe would quickly degrade nylon ties. Rather than piggy backing power from the wiring behind the cigar lighter socket I will use a 12V plug pack. There are power points alongside the refrigerator in my van for the fridge and microwave. Using a small power board I'll be able to run the plug pack. (The lighter socket is a couple of metres away, I would have to run wires around furniture and through holes, etc.)

Will order the other items on my next visit to Jaycar.

For those who have already installed a fan, I wonder if removing the bottom vent (temporally) would help by allowing more air to enter?

Murray

Thanks OutbackMK.
I'd previously fitted a fan to my Freedom pop top years ago, but hadn't thought about it for the new Sterling. When I read your article I realized I have a similar configuration in the Sterling. So for the cost of an illuminated switch from Jaycar, and some scrap aluminium and wire, I've done what you did. I also used a pool noodle to seal along the back of the fridge cabinet. With the van parked in the shed, I can feel the increased airflow, so it has to be better than it was. The 12v socket is an easy place to get power because it's right beside the fridge.
Thanks again for a very useful post.

So far planning for my installation is going well. A 12V plug pack, stainless steel cable ties are expected to arrive during the week. On Wednesday I'll drop into one of our local Jaycar stores and pick up the fan, thermostat, plus other incidentals like wire, connectors, fuse and holder, cable supports and so on.

I am thinking of putting an indicator light inside the van to show when the fan is on. Has anybody considered that?

Anyway, I have ordered a nice blue 12V indicator light on eBay although it is unlikely to arrive before we head off for our two week trip to Victoria. But it will be a simple job to retro fit the light on our return - if not used then I have only lost less than $4.

Murray

-- Edited by Long Weekend on Sunday 13th of December 2015 11:47:19 AM

Baz421 wrote:

---

KevKim37 wrote:

---

The larger 220 litre, 12 volt Compressor, Waeco White 2 door fridge/freezer is built with a 90mm computer fan fitted near the Compressor ex factory. The only change I did with that was turn fan around so it was Blowing Air over the Compressor and Not sucking it away from the unit.

---

Strange that it was the opposite direction. Our Vitrifugo has a Danfoss compressor and the original fan blew across condenser cooling fins and toward compressor. The second fan I fitted boosted what was a weak airflow. 

---

It's not the same thing, but just yesterday I was experimenting with my CPU cooling fan in my old computer. Using the CPU's temperature sensor in conjunction with temperature monitoring software, I recorded 38C when the fan was drawing air away from the heatsink and 35-36C when the fan was blowing air onto the heatsink. 

(Before I cleaned out the dust balls, the temperature was 43C. I'm now running CPUidle and the temperature has dropped to 27C. That's 1.5C above ambient.)

The issue of external heat on caravan fridges has been raised on a number of sites over the years and on numerous occasions one would think that companies like Jayco would take some notice of what their customers are saying and install a small fan at the back of fridges, the cost would be minimal especially when compared to a lot of the glitzy stuff they now put in vans, this stuff may look pretty but is it necessary.