I might just get one of each to try as flasher lights for my van.
The ones that I made up from lengths of those coils of sticky backed LED strips are failing. 'Dry joints' on the soldered connections the problem.
My Advice..... Don't!. Indicator, Brake & Tail Lights should be ADR approved to avoid possible insurance issues in the event of an accident. The panel lights suggested by others below would be best used for internal lights or possibly awning lights.
Also the power/lumen ratings suggested by cabinbright are exagerated, Lumen for 5730/5630 24SMD's would be around 500 not the 750 claimed and power .15 amps??? on a 12v system these would be around 7.2 Watts not the 1.8watts claimed.
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Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
madaboutled wrote:Also the power/lumen ratings suggested by cabinbright are exagerated, Lumen for 5730/5630 24SMD's would be around 500 not the 750 claimed and power .15 amps??? on a 12v system these would be around 7.2 Watts not the 1.8watts claimed.
My calculator in Windows 7 says 12 x 0.15 = 1.8
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
Some flasher units rely on the big current drawn from a conventional lamp to flash. The current drawn by a LED won't allow the flasher to operate and the LED stays on constantly. Two options. Get a new flasher can that handles LEDs or add ballast (Resistor) so the can still thinks there is still a conventional bulb. Been thru this trying to fit LEDs to motorbikes.
Also the power/lumen ratings suggested by cabinbright are exagerated, Lumen for 5730/5630 24SMD's would be around 500 not the 750 claimed and power .15 amps??? on a 12v system these would be around 7.2 Watts not the 1.8watts claimed.
I'm not familiar with LED lighting as a user, so I'm relying on Wikipedia:
The above article suggests that the typical power rating for a 5730 SMD LED is 0.5W, and the efficacy ranges from 90 to 110 lumens per watt. Therefore 24 such LEDs should consume 12W of power and their output should be of the order of 1200 lumens.
The 5730-24 cabinbright LEDs are rated at 0.15A, 10-30V AC/DC, 750+ lumens. That in itself is ambiguous. If we assume this to mean that the rating is 0.15A at 30V, then the power consumption is 4.5W. At 100 lumens/watt, we would expect that the output should be 450 lumens.
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"No friend ever served me, and no enemy ever wronged me, whom I have not repaid in full."
Some 5630/5730 SMD LED's have a built-in Driver to regulate the input voltage to a constant output voltage. I would assume the 10-30V AC/DC indicated by CabinBright is the input voltage range, that said the electronics to do this are a bit bulky and not visible on the panel in the pics, they don't show the extra electronics needed and if they existed then the panel should appear a lot thicker than the ones pictured.
In my own testing of 24 SMD Panels using 5630/5730 type LED's on 12 volt systems show a power usage of 7.2 Watts and 500 Lumen Output and my experience with these LED panels is that most sellers (not all) under rate them on the actual power usage and over rate them on Lumen output. In order to abide by the rules of this forum I can't really elaborate any more than that.
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Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
Clearly, if the panel accommodates an input voltage range of 10-30V AC/DC, then it MUST incorporate a rectifier and a regulator. Moreover, the regulator must be a switchmode type, otherwise it would be massively inefficient. Also, assuming that AC operation requires a unity power factor, then the electronics must incorporate PFC circuitry.
Then there is the question of how the LEDs are arranged. Does the panel consist of a single string of 24 LEDs in series, or 2 strings of 12 LEDs in parallel, 3 strings of 8, 4 of 6, 6 of 4, or 8 strings of 3?
Assuming that the typical voltage drop of a LED is 3V+, then, in order to accommodate an input voltage of 10V, either there are 8 strings of 3 LEDs powered from a step-down buck regulator, or the regulator must be a boost converter.
I wonder if the 0.15A current rating actually reflects the current drawn by each LED. That would mean that the power dissipation per LED is around 0.45W (= 3V x 0.15A).
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"No friend ever served me, and no enemy ever wronged me, whom I have not repaid in full."
Some 5630/5730 SMD LED's have a built-in Driver to regulate the input voltage to a constant output voltage. I would assume the 10-30V AC/DC indicated by CabinBright is the input voltage range, that said the electronics to do this are a bit bulky and not visible on the panel in the pics, they don't show the extra electronics needed and if they existed then the panel should appear a lot thicker than the ones pictured.
The regulators that a lot of these units use is a simple series pass switch mode PWM type. If you use a good very fast switching transistor in the regulator they don't generate much heat. They are so small you probably would not recognise them with a casual glance.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.