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Post Info TOPIC: Hayman Reece WDH bar lengths...
aussie_paul


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Hayman Reece WDH bar lengths...
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I am considering redoing my genset box on the A frame BUT it is difficult to keep the WDH chains vertical. I thought (now that's a worrybiggrin) I read somewhere that there are different lengths of the WDH bars. I cannot seem to find that info now. Tried the HR website.

Aussie Paul. smile



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Bill B


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http://haymanreese.com.au/products/600lb-kit




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Bill B
aussie_paul


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Bill B wrote:


http://haymanreese.com.au/products/600lb-kit

 Thanks Bill, I was on at page and never picked up the two lengths. Two inches is not much but it might work.

Aussie Paul. smile



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Olley46


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Aussie Paul are you having trouble fitting your  WDH brackets,is that the reason for wanting longer bars? If that is the problem I have seen somewhere where they welded blocks on the a frame same size as the chassis long enough for the WDH bracket to be fitted you would have to set your chains longer ,this overcomes the problem of the bracket on the a frame, forget what I have rote if that is not your problem.

Lance C



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aussie_paul


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Olley46 wrote:

Aussie Paul are you having trouble fitting your  WDH brackets,is that the reason for wanting longer bars? If that is the problem I have seen somewhere where they welded blocks on the a frame same size as the chassis long enough for the WDH bracket to be fitted you would have to set your chains longer ,this overcomes the problem of the bracket on the a frame, forget what I have rote if that is not your problem.

Lance C

Thanks Lance, yes it is my problem, although I need them to be shorter. Thinking cap on after your comment. nod.gif

Aussie Paul. smile



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Baz421


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Paul

I had a cross member preventing my Reece (US version of Hayman Reece) from ideal location.

See pics on how to make plates to overcome this type of problem as you tailor make them to suit .

They bolt on and utilise the original/existing Reece fitting.

Cheers Baz

 



-- Edited by Baz421 on Friday 3rd of April 2015 08:09:17 PM

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Olley46


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Paul  you can use your existing bars just put the block on the a frame  to suit the position of the bars, probly a 15 minute job for a good welder.

Lance C



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Olley46


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Baz421 wrote:

Paul

I had a cross member preventing my Reece (US version of Hayman Reece) from ideal location.

See pics on how to make plates to overcome this type of problem as you tailor make them to suit .

They bolt on and utilise the original/existing Reece fitting.

Cheers Baz

 



-- Edited by Baz421 on Friday 3rd of April 2015 08:09:17 PM

 That is another great idea Baz421.

Lance C



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aussie_paul


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Baz421 wrote:

Paul

I had a cross member preventing my Reece (US version of Hayman Reece) from ideal location.

See pics on how to make plates to overcome this type of problem as you tailor make them to suit .

They bolt on and utilise the original/existing Reece fitting.

Cheers Baz

 

-- Edited by Baz421 on Friday 3rd of April 2015 08:09:17 PM

 Thanks Barry.

Aussie Paul. smile



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PeterD


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Paul, download the HR cattledog from this page. Scroll down to page 67 and see if the top item turns you on.



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PeterD
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NSW Central Coast.

 
aussie_paul


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PeterD wrote:

Paul, download the HR cattledog from this page. Scroll down to page 67 and see if the top item turns you on.

 Thanks Peter. Very interesting.

Aussie Paul. smile



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aussie_paul


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I reckon that I will be able to shorten the bars as they are only held in position by a roll pin. Also I could redrill and shift the U bolt with the chains forward a little. I am also trying to get a price on those devices in the catalog PeterD.

I have come up with an idea to hinge the genset box so I can lean it forward to open the front boot. If this works I will then get sturdier hinges and pop rivet them with stainless pop rivets.

Thoughts please??

Aussie Paul. smile

 

 



-- Edited by aussie_paul on Monday 6th of April 2015 02:18:55 PM



-- Edited by aussie_paul on Monday 6th of April 2015 02:23:35 PM

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PeterD


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aussie_paul wrote:

 I am also trying to get a price on those devices in the catalog PeterD.

On second thoughts I see they are no good to you. I see from your pictures you have the bars with the curved ends. The cattledog says they are for the straight bars.



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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 
aussie_paul


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PeterD wrote:

On second thoughts I see they are no good to you. I see from your pictures you have the bars with the curved ends. The cattledog says they are for the straight bars.

I did not pick that up PeterD. Before I commit to an action I will see if many more opinions good or bad become of my idea to shorten the bar at the thick end, and shift the U bolts along by drilling more holes. They are not that hard as I did a small test drill near the bar tip and began a small cut an 1/8th of an inch from the thick end for testing purposes. I have a bandsaw and a standard drill from my Gyroplane building days.

You will notice from the pick that the toes of my shoes are very "ratty" as I have to kneel to do many jobs... biggrin

Aussie Paul. smile



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aussie_paul


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Ok, no takers re me doing something incorrect (I am never wrong!!biggrin) re my HR wdh bars so I will have a crack at cutting a few inches off the thick end of the bars and see how I go.

Aussie Paul. smile



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ColB


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Hi Paul

I had the same issue with locating my bars on my van (short Draw Bar) as I have the super Heavy Duty HR set. When I bought it they only came with 30" bars. I needed 28". I was going to do the same as you and cut the bars. I contacted the trailer place I bought the set off and was told NOT to cut the bars as they are spring steel and it would weaken them. They rang HR and were told that due to a lot of complaints they then made a 28" bar. So I bought them cost was $180 per bar but now don't have the problem. May I suggest you contact a HR dealer and see what they say



Col

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KevinC


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G'day Paul,
Sorry to be late with this post.
What you're suggesting makes my blood run cold. I realize I'm super conservative, but the spring bars are engineered for lift and flex. You might be about to change both.
I see your problem with the angles of the chains, but if it was mine I'd be looking at the box and maybe elevating it on a frame to get it out of the way.
Sorry for my negativity, but I just wouldn't modify the bars.

Just had a thought. There's a spring manufacturer just near me. Maybe there's one near you. That'd be the person to modify the bars or give you proper advice.

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aussie_paul


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Thanks KevinC, too late she cried!!! The thick end is where I have shortened them. Bloody tough bit of gear to cut and drill. HR have both 30" and 28", mine were 28". Personally I don't see any problems, but time will tell.

Aussie Paul. smile



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KevinC


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I'm glad you did that end. Obviously it's where there's least flexing, so if you're going to get away with it, and I certainly hope you do, you've given yourself the best chance.

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aussie_paul


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This is how it all ended up. I have hinged the genset box and will organise a lockable system when  get heavier hinges. Looks much better. I will use stainless 3/16" pop rivets to attach hinges to A frame now that the proof of concept is a goer.

Aussie Paul. smile

 

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-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 21st of April 2015 02:25:30 PM



-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 21st of April 2015 02:28:49 PM



-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 21st of April 2015 02:30:32 PM



-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 21st of April 2015 03:36:16 PM

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