Fishoil not drying.

hako · Guru

Fishoil not drying.

Baz421 · Guru

hako wrote:
G'Day, I decided to kill some surface rust on my box trailer so sanded the rust and applied Killrust brand fishoil as this is the stuff that has stood the test of time. However, after 10 days it still feels sticky to the touch....not real sticky, just too sticky to overcoat with an oil based enamel. It has been sitting in full sun so has had good drying conditions.
If I do overcoat it whilst sticky, the final topcoat may not dry....ever. Is my assumption correct?

Thanks

Will eventually dry under the paint. Some brands stay sticky for months other dry better, and sometimes the thickness is the issue. I would wait a bit longer if I was you before painting or use a good quality primer to cover before enamel.

hako · Guru

Thanks Baz - I think I might wipe over the tie down rails with a rag soaked in turps or thinners to remove it otherwise when I use rope to tie the load down it will just make a mess. The body of the trailer I'll just spray with some quick dry engine enamel I've got and thin it with lacquer thinners - hopefully it won't take a month to dry as you suggest. I need to use the trailer in 2 weeks time over very dusty roads so I really need to get something on top.
Previous to this I've used fishoil mainly inside door panels or chassis members and it has always stopped any rust.

Regards

Brenda and Alan · Guru

Go to a paint store and buy some Terebine drying agent, dilute with turps and spray or brush over painted surface and this will dry the fishoil. Painting in the full sun has driven of the dryer in the fishoil and untreated will take some time to dry naturally. The people at a paint store that sells terebine will advise on quantities ,dilutions etc. If you just over spray with a solvent based paint it wont dry,but if you over spray with an oil based paint in shaded conditions the dryers in the new coat will also dry the basecoat.

Alan

-- Edited by Brenda and Alan on Tuesday 31st of March 2015 10:54:15 PM

hako · Guru

Alan - I have a tin of terebine...pretty old but about 500ml left - used it to make clear finish dry quicker on timber years ago I think so will try that. Interesting what you say about the hot sun driving off the dryers in the fishoil which makes sense although under the trailer which is shaded is also sticky....but possibly the metal was hot so once again dryers were driven off.
You learn something new every day......I always thought paint dried quicker in the sun but from what you say not always. Many thanks for clearing this up.
Regards

Jenko1 · Veteran Member

Denis I use this stuff, dies hard and can paint over it. www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php

wasn_me · Guru

Hi Dennis

Any surface rust problems I use rust converter. Remove any flaky rust back to surface rust. The instructions say no need to prime, ( I prime ).

It's available from automotive stores (supercheap) around $15 for 500ml

I've used it for many years with good results.

Cheers Pete

deverall11 · Guru

wasn_me wrote:
Hi Dennis
Any surface rust problems I use rust converter. Remove any flaky rust back to surface rust. The instructions say no need to prime, ( I prime ).
It's available from automotive stores (supercheap) around $15 for 500ml
I've used it for many years with good results.
Cheers Pete

Ditto. This stuff removes all the oxygen from the metal thereby stopping the process..

Larry

hako · Guru

Ended up taking the trailer down to the paint shop and they said just to use it 'as-is' for the next few weeks on dusty roads and then when we return to use a paint scraper and simply scrape the fishoil and softened rust off. Fortunately all the panels are flat. Then leave for a week in the sun and paint with any oil based enamel. He said he preferred brush over spray as with spray it tends to be thin in some sections and this allows the rust to creep back and use any oil paint you like as they all just keep the oxygen away from the metal. They reckon any pitted rust will be soaked in fishoil and inconsequential. This way I'll end up with a much smoother surface and all rust will be neutralised. I used rust converter on the wheels which had no paint just rust but not pitted and then used 2 coats of metal finish paint on them.
So many thanks for all the tips and ideas - I've learned heaps more about painting. Lucky I like that fishoil smell.
Regards

Phillipn · Guru

hako wrote:
Thanks Baz - I think I might wipe over the tie down rails with a rag soaked in turps or thinners to remove it otherwise when I use rope to tie the load down it will just make a mess. The body of the trailer I'll just spray with some quick dry engine enamel I've got and thin it with lacquer thinners - hopefully it won't take a month to dry as you suggest. I need to use the trailer in 2 weeks time over very dusty roads so I really need to get something on top.
Previous to this I've used fishoil mainly inside door panels or chassis members and it has always stopped any rust.

Regards

hako, don`t get caught with ropes to secure your load on trailers. Cops take a dim view of it.

I know that has nothing to do with your paint question. Just a word of advice.

hako · Guru

Phillipn wrote:
SNIP
hako, don`t get caught with ropes to secure your load on trailers. Cops take a dim view of it.
I know that has nothing to do with your paint question. Just a word of advice.

Thanks Phil - I've got an old fishnet that I use as a cover and then rope it down - maybe I should use ratchet straps?

EDIT...just check with Qld Transport and it says ropes are OK but straps are better. I usually use so many ropes their weight alone holds down the load!

Regards

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Loads-and-towing/Load-restraint.aspx

-- Edited by hako on Thursday 2nd of April 2015 12:17:38 PM

Phillipn · Guru

hako wrote:
Phillipn wrote:
SNIP
hako, don`t get caught with ropes to secure your load on trailers. Cops take a dim view of it.
I know that has nothing to do with your paint question. Just a word of advice.

Thanks Phil - I've got an old fishnet that I use as a cover and then rope it down - maybe I should use ratchet straps?

EDIT...just check with Qld Transport and it says ropes are OK but straps are better. I usually use so many ropes their weight alone holds down the load! hi
Regards

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Loads-and-towing/Load-restraint.aspx

-- Edited by hako on Thursday 2nd of April 2015 12:17:38 PMchet

The reason I posted re ropes, a friend was pulled up a Warwick with ropes securing his load. Police would not let him move until he secured the load with ratchet straps. He phoned his father who bring him the straps. He was fined $50.

His load was steel cattle panels, police told him they could have fined him $50 for each panel on his trailer. Their were 15 panels. How do we win?

hako · Guru

I guess it all is up the copper and really I'd reckon steel cattle panels would require straps - 15 panels would weigh almost a tonne so the trailer possibly was not a domestic 6 X 4.
But for the normal stuff you carry in a domestic trailer when camping I reckon you'd get away with ropes and a net over the lot. My take on straps is they are no better than ropes when carrying soft stuff like when camping as they go loose and the hook drops off whereas a rope goes loose it still stays there. Many years ago I towed a 6 X 4 with the spare loose in the back - it wasn't there at the end of the trip and I often fell guilty thinking of where it may have possibly ended up.
But thanks for the reminder to secure the load Phil - also applies to those bikes you see on the back of cars and caravans held on to the carrier by occy straps.
Regards

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

In areas where rust is prominent I wouldn't worry too much.. Tie rails etc hardy have heavy rust and can be painted if required..