I used too use a steel, but they seemed to blunt very quickly. An oil stone worked, but I've ruined mine by using lanoline on it. I finally got what I wanted for my birthday, a diamond steel, a good one made by scanpan. but after a few uses, certainly expected it to last longer, its now bald, no diamonds, useless, so what am I doing wrong?
About 30 odd years ago, I found an old Carborundum Steel at Rustys' Markets in Cairns. Got it for a song, and it's still going great today. Are the items you've been using Carborundum, or something more modern.
I know you can still get Carborundum ones on e-bay. Also, keep an eye out for a PIPE [brand name]Steel. Theyre scarce as Hens teeth though. I've been trying to find one of them for over 50 years. Haven't checked the net yet though. Must do that as soon as I post this.
Wow !!! Now I know why I've never been able to find a Pipe Steel. Just off the net. There's one on e-bay at the moment, and the bidding is, at the moment as below. Will post a Pic. of it below the following.
Try this is might help..... http://www.chefsarmoury.com/sharpening-steel-or-sharpening-stone/info_63.html
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......, its now bald, no diamonds, useless, .......
Don't be too quick to throw it out. I'm pretty sure that model is a 800 grit model, very fine and produces a polished edge. Not much good for taking a lot of metal off or for shaping the blade but excellent for giving the edge a quick strop often to maintain an edge. Biggest issue with keeping knife blades sharp is to keep the angle correct. Plenty of sharpening kits out there that clamp the blade then use a guide to run sharpening stones across the edge at a fixed angle. Use the Scanpan sharpener for touching up the blade only.
Iza
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Iza
Semi-permanent state of being Recreationally Outraged as a defence against boredom during lockdown.
You can't use a steel to sharpen a knife. It is only for straightening the edge (feather).
A cheap way to sharpen is to use wet and dry sandpaper. Use it flat on a small cutting board or on some firm closed cell rubber. Put the knife on the paper, lift it slightly (a bit less than 20 degrees) and pull the blade backwards across the wet and dry. Buy coarse, medium and fine wet and dry.
You can't use a steel to sharpen a knife. It is only for straightening the edge (feather).
A cheap way to sharpen is to use wet and dry sandpaper. Use it flat on a small cutting board or on some firm closed cell rubber. Put the knife on the paper, lift it slightly (a bit less than 20 degrees) and pull the blade backwards across the wet and dry. Buy coarse, medium and fine wet and dry.
Ditto. A steel is only to polish the sharp edge. If you were to look at it under a microscope, you will see the sharp edge has mushroomed out. You redress it by using a steel. If it needs sharpening, use the abovementioned method, use a sharpening stone or have it done by a professional. It also comes down to the quality of the knife. A good quality knife should only need sharpening once a year. The chopping board also has an effect on that as well as what you do. By that I mean, if you use the sharp end of your knife to scrape the chopping board, this will accelerate the process of blunting your knife. Some people reckon that a plastic board is harder on your knife then wood. Jury is out on that one. I think good practice is what keeps your knife in good shape.
A good knife is concave just under cutting edge .. After some usage it needs a tidy up on fine wheel..
I use detergent on my carborundum stone.. Gives the right lube.. Wash off with warm water..
Thanks for the info, a new carborundum stone is probably the answer, I thought I was only using the diamond to touch up, but now our knives are so blunt I will have to start at base one again. I shall take the diamond into a knife shop and have them check it out. Very disappointed all the same.
Thanks for the info, a new carborundum stone is probably the answer, I thought I was only using the diamond to touch up, but now our knives are so blunt I will have to start at base one again. I shall take the diamond into a knife shop and have them check it out. Very disappointed all the same.
Ian, one thing that is overlooked by many people is the quality of the knife ie: the composition of the metal. For example, you can go and buy, say a Wiltshire or the equivalent made in China job, which is a cheap steel and will NOT retain an edge. The metal is too soft. You can then go and spend a few buck, say around $200 - $300 for a 17 cm cooks knife, branded Global or Wusthof and it will hold an edge a lot longer. Also, never put a quality knife in the dishwasher. Not so much for the chemicals but more so for the temperature.
Be reassured that although paying $200+ sounds like a lot of money, if you look after it you will never have to buy another one.
Correct,a steel is used not to sharpen but instead to straighten a feathered edge. Very sharp knives develope a slightly wavy edge because the edge is so thin. First you use a steel then sharpen. The steel will maintain an edge Until it dulls.
All my knives are Japanese and I would not dare to attempt to sharpen them myself So instead use a saw doctor, always the same man. He and I are the only people to have ever held some of them.
Additionally after honing and sharpening he buffs the edge with a felt wheel. Holding these knives in my right hand they will slice though a piece of paper held hanging in my left hand.
One good knife at least maintained by a professional is a treasure to use in the kitchen.
The worst enemy of a sharpening steel is - steel. Inconveniently this is exactly what we introduce each time we use it - keep your sharpening steel clean with a good wipe with a cloth after each knife and a soft brush before you put it away; should last longer.
For information, the 'el cheapo' wet and dry sandpaper on a firm rubber pad (eg a firm mouse pad) will develop a very sharp, slight convex edge.
That sort of edge is perfect for the work most do with their knives in the kitchen and around camps. The edge is well supported by the slight convex and will remain sharp for a long time.
