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Post Info TOPIC: Wiring to fridge battery IN TUG


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Wiring to fridge battery IN TUG


I am changing the wiring from a direct connection, start battery to fridge battery (through a VSR). I am going to wire it through a Ctek 250S dc-dc charger. The wiring diagram supplied with the charger shows a direct connection from the start battery to charger. 

My questionis, do others, that have done this, make the connection through an ignition powered relay (for safety). Or rely on the charger breaking the connection when start battery voltage drops.

Cheers Pete 



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Hi Wasme 

May I ask the questions

[1]Why are you changing?

[2]Will the house battery be on the DC/dc  charger as well??

[3]What model fridge do you have?

A direct answer to your actual questionsmile  You do not need a VSR with the Ctek

It has it's own inbuilt reverse current protection.[Electronic switching]

PeterQ



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oldtrack123 wrote:

 

Hi Wasme 

May I ask the questions

[1]Why are you changing?

[2]Will the house battery be on the DC/dc  charger as well??

[3]What model fridge do you have?

A direct answer to your actual questionsmile  You do not need a VSR with the Ctek

It has it's own inbuilt reverse current protection.[Electronic switching]

PeterQ


 Thanks for your reply, Peter

(1)  Experience has taught me you can't get the best out of an agm, charging it in direct connection to the start wet cell. Eventually the agm will only have a max voltage around 12.8 - 12.9, thus losing some storage capacity.

(2) House, van battery is purely solar, I mainly set up for 3-4 days at a time. Charging from the car would be little advantage. I used to carry a 1kw generator but have never used it in seriousness, so it takes up space in the garage now. 

(3) The car 2nd battery runs a 32lt engel.

I was wondering if others fit a relay as an added safety measure to protect the start battery. I guess I am asking is it possible for the electronic switching in the Ctek to fail

Cheers Pete

 



-- Edited by wasn_me on Friday 31st of October 2014 01:59:37 PM

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wasn_me wrote:

 


 Thanks for your reply, Peter

(1)  Experience has taught me you can't get the best out of an agm, charging it in direct connection to the start wet cell. Eventually the agm will only have a max voltage around 12.8 - 12.9, thus losing some storage capacity.

(2) House, van battery is purely solar, I mainly set up for 3-4 days at a time. Charging from the car would be little advantage. I used to carry a 1kw generator but have never used it in seriousness, so it takes up space in the garage now. 

(3) The car 2nd battery runs a 32lt engel.

I was wondering if others fit a relay as an added safety measure to protect the start battery. I guess I am asking is it possible for the electronic switching in the Ctek to fail

Cheers Pete-

Edited by wasn_me on Friday 31st of October 2014 01:59:37 PM


  Hi Pete

 

[1]soundsgood enough

[2]OK

[3]that clears that up,OK.[

By the very nature of the components in theDc/Dc charger it is very very unlikely such a situation could develop,

 you have nothing to loose  except $ if you realy want to fit one smile

But I would rather spend the money on a low voltage cutout for the Aux battery

Engels will keep drawing current until the battery is dead flat,unless your's is fitted witha low voltage cut out

[don't think they have done that yet]

Engels are not damaged by undervoltage, but Waecos can  be, which is why they have an inbuit low voltage cutout

It's pime purpose is to protect the unit, especialy when if set to the lowest volts.

PeterQ

 



-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 31st of October 2014 02:16:50 PM



-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 31st of October 2014 02:19:04 PM

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