Gas fridge problem - I finally solved it.

spida · Guru

Gas fridge problem - I finally solved it.

Cupie · Guru

Fell for the same with my Surburban HWS.

It would run the pilot OK but would not start the main jet.

I replaced the whole unit with little improvement.

Finally did what I should have done in the first place & checked the gas flow pressure ON LOAD and immediately diagnosed the problem as the regulator.

The guy at the gas place told me that it was a common problem with the regulators after about 5 to 7 yrs. It seems the there is a build up of sticky stuff possibly from the additive that gives the gas its smell.

HWS has been great since . THe old one is in the back of the shed .. just in case. .... have to have a look at the pipes to the gas cooker ... but we don't use that much so I never seem to get round to it.

oldbobsbus · Guru

spida wrote:
Twice in the past 2 months I have had the gas ignition serviced as the fridge was not getting cold enough. The first place (VIC) said they would replace the thermostat - in 3 weeks time when they could get one in - if it was not working better. Another $70 so got another place (NSW) to check things- I read the manual and asked them to do the exhaust as well. Ok for a few days but still not cold enough.
Fridge on gas getting worse all the time so I had a think about it all - and decided to replaced the regulator. WOW - now have to run the fridge on lowest setting as everything started to freeze! Also can now boil the kettle in half the time!
I wonder why these so called caravan gas 'experts' didn't check that. Surely if someone comes with a gas problem you would check the system first????? The regulator even looked really old!
Anything I need to know about replacing a regulator? Bloke helped and used gas tape so no leaks. Does it need adjusting by an expert to stop things freezing - otherwise I will just run it on lowest setting which seems ok.

By the sound of it there are very few out there that know their job these days.... cry cry cry

Glad to hear you have solved your problem

Olley46 · Guru

spida wrote:
Twice in the past 2 months I have had the gas ignition serviced as the fridge was not getting cold enough. The first place (VIC) said they would replace the thermostat - in 3 weeks time when they could get one in - if it was not working better. Another $70 so got another place (NSW) to check things- I read the manual and asked them to do the exhaust as well. Ok for a few days but still not cold enough.
Fridge on gas getting worse all the time so I had a think about it all - and decided to replaced the regulator. WOW - now have to run the fridge on lowest setting as everything started to freeze! Also can now boil the kettle in half the time!
I wonder why these so called caravan gas 'experts' didn't check that. Surely if someone comes with a gas problem you would check the system first????? The regulator even looked really old!
Anything I need to know about replacing a regulator? Bloke helped and used gas tape so no leaks. Does it need adjusting by an expert to stop things freezing - otherwise I will just run it on lowest setting which seems ok.

Hi Spida

Your regulator is self regulating you don't have to do anything, just adjust your fridge,normaly set our fridge on about 3-4 when it gets to hotter weather turn it up a bit more,if needed.

Lance C

-- Edited by Olley46 on Sunday 27th of April 2014 02:29:57 PM

spida · Guru

Thanks Lance. Was a bit concerned when it was freezing things on '3', but is fine on lowest setting.

GaryKelly · Guru

I replaced the regulator myself with a new one from Supercheap, using teflon tape to gas proof the connections. Got tired of waiting for a gas man to arrive. Too busy for small jobs like mine. One turned up thinking I wanted my house gas done. When he discovered the job was for my camper, he didn't turn up again even after making an appointment. Bugger 'em. I also invested in CO and gas alarms.

Spook · Senior Member

The trouble is that your average gas fitter hasn't a bloody clue about the rules concerning RV gas installations................or marine work for that matter, and that's a whole different kettle of fish again! I come across them often.

Spook · Senior Member

Olley46 wrote:
spida wrote:
Twice in the past 2 months I have had the gas ignition serviced as the fridge was not getting cold enough. The first place (VIC) said they would replace the thermostat - in 3 weeks time when they could get one in - if it was not working better. Another $70 so got another place (NSW) to check things- I read the manual and asked them to do the exhaust as well. Ok for a few days but still not cold enough.
Fridge on gas getting worse all the time so I had a think about it all - and decided to replaced the regulator. WOW - now have to run the fridge on lowest setting as everything started to freeze! Also can now boil the kettle in half the time!
I wonder why these so called caravan gas 'experts' didn't check that. Surely if someone comes with a gas problem you would check the system first????? The regulator even looked really old!
Anything I need to know about replacing a regulator? Bloke helped and used gas tape so no leaks. Does it need adjusting by an expert to stop things freezing - otherwise I will just run it on lowest setting which seems ok.
Hi Spida
Your regulator is self regulating you don't have to do anything, just adjust your fridge,normaly set our fridge on about 3-4 when it gets to hotter weather turn it up a bit more,if needed.
Lance C

-- Edited by Olley46 on Sunday 27th of April 2014 02:29:57 PM

Good regulators are NOT "self regulating" but need to be calibrated with all appliances running at full noise. Rubbish regulators are not adjustable and not worth tickety boo.

Spook · Senior Member

Cupie wrote:
Fell for the same with my Surburban HWS.
It would run the pilot OK but would not start the main jet.
I replaced the whole unit with little improvement.
Finally did what I should have done in the first place & checked the gas flow pressure ON LOAD and immediately diagnosed the problem as the regulator.
The guy at the gas place told me that it was a common problem with the regulators after about 5 to 7 yrs. It seems the there is a build up of sticky stuff possibly from the additive that gives the gas its smell.

HWS has been great since . THe old one is in the back of the shed .. just in case. .... have to have a look at the pipes to the gas cooker ... but we don't use that much so I never seem to get round to it.

Any regulators I remove get squashed with a mash hammer and put in the rubbish bin.

spida · Guru

so I still need to find an 'expert' then to check the regulator? I paid $90 at a hardware shop for a double headed one - included the copper pipes. I think there are a couple of adjustment screws on the side but wont touch them.

elliemike · Guru

spida wrote:
so I still need to find an 'expert' then to check the regulator? I paid $90 at a hardware shop for a double headed one - included the copper pipes. I think there are a couple of adjustment screws on the side but wont touch them.

The Adjustment screws you mentioned are probably hex plugs. The ports for gas Gauges H/P and L/P are usually supplied with plugs in them.

On some Regulators there are "Pressure Test Nipples" for putting a manometer tube onto. These are sometimes mistaken for "Adjustment fittings"

The Adjustment is under the Black Plastic Cap in the centre of the LP regulator. It is usually a hex (Allen Key) adjuster.

LP-Regulator,-exploded-view.jpg

spida · Guru

Thank you Elliemike. I do like having some idea about what I need done when I talk to those who are supposed to know - as an old bird I sometimes wonder if I am being 'had' - assumed ignorant :) I will find someone to check it for me.

Cupie · Guru

spida wrote:
Thank you Elliemike. I do like having some idea about what I need done when I talk to those who are supposed to know - as an old bird I sometimes wonder if I am being 'had' - assumed ignorant :) I will find someone to check it for me.

No need to do any adjustment to the regulator.

Just turn on the gas & pour some soapy water over the connectors that you used & look for bubbles forming from escaping gas. You should do this at least every time you change the gas bottle as well as part of your normal van maintenance routine.

elliemike · Guru

Cupie wrote:
spida wrote:
Thank you Elliemike. I do like having some idea about what I need done when I talk to those who are supposed to know - as an old bird I sometimes wonder if I am being 'had' - assumed ignorant :) I will find someone to check it for me.
No need to do any adjustment to the regulator.
Just turn on the gas & pour some soapy water over the connectors that you used & look for bubbles forming from escaping gas. You should do this at least every time you change the gas bottle as well as part of your normal van maintenance routine.

Heres something I wrote a while back about simple gas testing.

Test for Gas Leakage

Every time I hear of a death caused by Gas Leaking from appliances in Camping vehicles and Tents, it prods me to go and do a check of the Avan Gas System.

Here's a simple way to test for a gas leak. If you have just been over corrugations on bush roads for instance this method takes about two minutes to check for connections that have rattled loose etc.

The Gas Fuse units are available in Hardware outlets and Caravan Camping type shops. Main thing is that whatever you use, you need a gauge on it.

The Gasfuse gauge on the gas bottle can be used for a simple test similar to that I used to carry out safety tests on gas lines we had just installed. This was in factories for boilers or gas fired process equipment/machinery. (Usually 50 to 100 mm diameter pipe). And is still used by plumbers for line testing.

We closed all the outlet on the system. Then filled the system with compressed air at a pressure of 35 Kpa (about 5 psi) monitored with a pressure gauge. Closed the compressed air inlet and left the system with pressure in it for a few hours, even overnight.

If the pressure had hardly dropped we did not have to go looking for leaks, with soapy water and a brush. The gas inspector did the same test.

You can do this with the "Gasfuse Gauge". If you have one on your Gas Bottle.

To Test Your System

Ensure all your gas appliances are OFF. Fridge, cooker, heaters etc.

This means pilot flames off as well.

OPEN the gas bottle valve and activate the gasfuse, by pressing the gauge down once. This will pressurise the lines/system with gas, and the gauge needle will show the pressure in the yellow or green.

(Be a good thing to test every time a fresh bottle is put on, also after driving for hours over corrugated roads).

CLOSE the gas bottle valve, and observe the needle on the gauge for say two or three minutes. It should remain static.

If the pressure gauge needle drops and keeps dropping, you possibly might have a gas leak.

Get a licensed gas fitter to look at it.

If it remains steady and holds pressure the system can be assumed to be secure.

Also check the gauge after about an hour and it should still in the same place.

But on such a small systems as caravans or motor homes 2 or 3 minutes would give some indication of a leak. The tiniest leak would drain an Avan system within minutes.

It is recommended that you get a yearly maintenance gas check done as well.

-- Edited by elliemike on Tuesday 29th of April 2014 10:35:38 AM