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Post Info TOPIC: A dummies guide to replacing my hot water anode ...


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RE: A dummies guide to replacing my hot water anode ...


I learnt there is a HARD rod inside my Anode and it would not break off if I left it a bit longer before changing.

I don't really give a Flying FFFFFFFFFF.......ig what it is made of but my education is complete re: Anodes with that info.

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Neil & Lynne

Pinjarra 

Western Australia


MY23.5 Ford Wildtrak V6 Dual Cab / 21' Silverline 21-65.3

' 1260w Solar: 400ah Lithium Battery: 2000w Projecta IP2000 Inverter

Diesel Heater: SOG Toilet Kit: 2.5kw Fujitsu Split System A/c

 

 



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I really appreciate ALL the feedback and passions expressed, apologies if I started a war between forum members, it was not my intention.

Thanks to EVERYONE for taking the time to respond, I'm here to learn lots and where I can, provide my knowledge on areas raised in the forum.

Regards - Weg.

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DEBnWEG

1995 80 Series Land Cruiser

2005 Jayco Heritage

 

 



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HI Wegs

No apolgy needed from yousmile

Hope you did learn a lot.

AND do not be frightened to post again 

it is very common for threads to drift a little off the original question,  but that often supplies  good additional info .

PS .Tech people just LUV a good" discussion"biggrin 



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Guru

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Yipes!!! can open, worms everywhere. Over a bloody anode replacement... Boys and Girls lets get our egos on hold!

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P B Crockart EX RAAF Electrician,

Aircraft Avionics tech. Senior high school teacher.

Live long and Prosper



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oldtrack123 wrote:

 

HI Delta

THe Type to use can depend on the water quailty

Magnesium is the best, BUT

Magnesium will have a very short life if used with highly mineralised water

Aluminium is often used in that situation, BUT some find the water has an odour

Of course like ALL hot water systems it is inadvisable to drink the water 

You will find they general loss material close to the thread first , this is to be expected as the small area of non lined steel of the tank & inlet socket are reacting

THAT area can become quite bare, but is ok, as long as solid Magnesium is left on the remainder

PeterQ

 



-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Monday 24th of March 2014 04:25:51 PM


 Hi  ..

 

I often wondered why the rods always loose material close to the thread.  I check mine every three to six months & used to replace them if I could see the centre core.

I just buy whatever ones that Coast to Coast or Camec have ... not sure if aluminium or magnesium.

  I never release the pressure when changing the rod.  I figure that it helps eject some of the crap from the tank.  I have thought of running the water thru the system with the anode removed to help flush the tank out, but always forget to try.  Maybe next time.

To keep the rod straight when I screw it back in, I put a small nut inside the socket so that it holds the rod straight as I start the thread.

I always leave the tank empty when not on the road & never drink water from a HWS at home or in the van.

 

 

Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van.  ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?

 

 



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See Ya ... Cupie




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Cupie asked,

Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van.  ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?

Not a problem at all that's all I ever use..



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www.graftoncountrymusic.com.au



Guru

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Date:

oldbobsbus wrote:

Cupie asked,

Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van.  ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?

Not a problem at all that's all I ever use..


 Thanks for that.  

 

My 13yo Jayco ones are starting to weep & I am informed that they can't be repaired.

It would be good to have some nice new shiny modern ones.

Another job off the 'To Do' list.



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See Ya ... Cupie


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