It's only a problem on uneven ground when I have to use the levelling blocks, I use the Fiamma blocks. I have a trailer-mate jack with a base plate and have to use timber blocks to gain enough height to unhitch. I normally drive onto the blocks. The problem is when I've got enough height to disconnect, the hitch jumps sideways and I've nearly had the trailer-mate off the blocks. Is this a problem of using blocks with the caravan and the car being a different angles. I use the mirrors to make sure that the car is in line with the van.
A decent chock front & back on the wheels opposite the Fiamma block levelers should stop the van rolling forward (or backwards) on those wheels & thus causing the trailer-mate jack skewing sideways. Also ensure that the wheels are securely chocked on the leveling blocks, but I am presuming you are doing this already. This should stop your van moving.
terry
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Chris & Terry
3.2lt 4 x 4 Mazda BT 50, single cab chas with full alloy canopy
The problem is when I've got enough height to disconnect, the hitch jumps sideways and I've nearly had the trailer-mate off the blocks. Is this a problem of using blocks with the caravan and the car being a different angles. I use the mirrors to make sure that the car is in line with the van.
You seem to have identified the problem. The problem is only a problem with twin axle vans, single axles do not do this. The problem is that when you turn a twin axle van you stress the suspension and tyres. It is quite common that when you uncouple the axle group tries to unwind itself. It will always try to push the coupling towards the inside of the curved path the van has just travelled. Forget the idea of blocking the wheels. They don't move during that unwinding, they just sit there and twist the van around.
The way to overcome this is first to position the van without the levelling blocks and get the vehicle in line with it. Drive forward a couple of metres, no turning. Put the levelling blocks in place. Drive straight back to place the van on the blocks. The further forward you can drive in a straight line the less chance there is to wind up the suspension and tyres. If you can't drive forward enough you can anticipate the direction the coupling will move and put the jack blocks there.
-- Edited by PeterD on Friday 31st of January 2014 10:58:10 AM
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
It's only a problem on uneven ground when I have to use the levelling blocks, I use the Fiamma blocks. I have a trailer-mate jack with a base plate and have to use timber blocks to gain enough height to unhitch. I normally drive onto the blocks. The problem is when I've got enough height to disconnect, the hitch jumps sideways and I've nearly had the trailer-mate off the blocks. Is this a problem of using blocks with the caravan and the car being a different angles. I use the mirrors to make sure that the car is in line with the van.
cheers
Alby
I Agree with peterd but found out jockey wheel is much safer than flat plate
does not take much movement for trailmate to be out of plumb
suenray
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we dont have the best of everything we make the best of everything we have
Cheers Ray .... I might have to get a new Tailer-mate ... this one is leaking. I put more hydraulic fluid in a couple of days ago and now the foot keeps dropping down. It still pumps up nicely though.
Alby said.. 'I might have to get a new Tailer-mate ... this one is leaking. I put more hydraulic fluid in a couple of days ago and now the foot keeps dropping down. It still pumps up nicely though.
Alby.. You can get a seal repair kit for Trail-A-Mate jacks.. The kits are available from most caravan accessory places - About $50.00 I believe..
The repair kits should come with a CD with a video to show you how to repair it. Make sure you get that. When you view the video it makes it a breeze to overhaul it.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.