As above - the AC-Delco deep cycle marine battery that came from the factory appears to be working OK. How long can I expect it to last or should I bin it now and not get caught in the middle of nowhere.
It is normally charged by the factory charger which is a cheap and nasty 4 amp unit you see in SuperCheap, yet it's kept the battery going for 7 years plus. Holds 12.8 volts normally after standing uncharged for a week.
I don't trust getting it checked by a battery place but would appreciate advice on just when is the prudent replacement time.
As an aside, my wife has a 2004 New Beetle - I've just replaced the original 10 year old German Varta battery in it for no other reason than it's old. Again I wonder if I did the right thing. I know it's only money but I don't like waste.
I suppose it depends on whether or not you plan to travel out in the sticks somewhere with not a battery shop in sight. In most situations, if the battery died, you could replace it same day or next.
Batteries rarely just stop working, especially if it has proven not to have any internal flaws over the period that you have had it. If it is still displaying adequate voltage stability at rest, doesn, t fall over under load and still has good Ah capacity, then the most likely thing that will happen when it decides to turn up its toes is a gradual drop off in performance, and you can generally live with this for a bit until replacement is possible.
Despite rhetoric to the contrary, very few batteries suffer short or open circuits. Most of them die due to either overcharging or over discharging, ie human abuse.
As Brian says, it depends how well it has been looked after and how much work it has done in the past.
"Holding 12.8V" is not much of an indication of its condition though. What happens to it if a load is put on it for some time?
You are correct about not trusting a battery place to test it, they generally only test cranking ability. I would still try that though.
I have had deep cycle Golf Car batteries last 10 years..
Infact I have a cart here that has 2002 batteries in it and it is still going but wouldn't do a full round of golf let alone 52 holes like new ones will..
We had the same dilemma with our Motorhome the two house batteries were over 8 years old and we thought along the lines that if it ain't broke you don't fix it,UNTILL we were on our last trip when SHMBO complained of a " sulphur smell " upon investigation we found that one battery was hot enough to fry an egg on , the shape of the offending battery was similar to a square ballon and acid was leaking through out the battery box what caused the problem is open to comment but I tell the story as a warning we could of lost the vehicle and caused a lot of grief had we not noticed the problem
there are now two new batteries residing where the old ones were cost $470.00 cheap if you take into account the motorhome value.
Thanks for the replies - We can live without 12v for a few days so I guess if it does fail in the middle of nowhere it will be no big drama. Only used to power LED lights, radio and the water pump.
I put a load on it yesterday - a 55watt spotlight for 20 mins and the volts on dropped to 12.6 and when disconnected rose again slowly to just under 12.8v, so we'll play it by ear.
Again thanks for the informative replies.
Regards
The OP's AC Delco, being 7 years old, was probably made in the USA. All AC Delco batteries now supplied to this side of the World are now made in Saudi Arabia. The AC Delco used to be the best battery in the World for longevity but I'm not so sure now.....
Getting 7 years out of a house battery is good going anyway. I was told to expect 5 years under 'normal' operating conditions and loads.
I'm in a quandary with my house batteries, presently there are two Trojan six volt 135 amp each. Not sure of the age, I've owned the vehicle for five years and they were suspect back then. I estimate they are at least ten years old. I have one solar panel and seem to get by OK.
Just how much longer they will last I don't know!!
Most auto electricians can load test a battery and they will know from the readings whether it is on the way out or not.
frank
Just be careful that they don't use a carbon pile or other high drain discharge method if your battery is a deep cycle one.
Deep cycle batteries are not designed to handle the very high discharge rates that these devices can create, and you will most likely destroy the battery in the process of seeing if it was OK.
Most manufacturers will recommend using only a sustained slow discharge test for their range of deep cycle batteries.
Incorrect use of a carbon pile load tester can cause excessive gassing which, whilst a vented battery may survive, can be fatal to any sealed battery.
The battery is tucked away under the bed in the far corner so I cannot see any lecky wanting to crawl in there and attach leads to test! Actually I'm a bit worried about how I'll remove it when the time comes as the HWS is in front of it plus the waterpump. I reckon the Avan factory built the van around the battery.
A good rule of thumb Brian and one, in fact, you taught me!
I would be interested to see where I was so remiss as to tell you that a battery that was down to 12.3v rested after starting off fully charged was in good nick.
Perhaps you can point me to that post so that I may apologise profusely to you for my error.
UPDATE. Wanted to test my new Waeco copy Fridge Freezer on the house battery so set it to -08C with ambient +27C.
This way I could gauge how both battery and fridge performed. The fridge I loaded with 4 litres of tap water. Battery was 12.8v at start of 24 hour test and 12.3 at the end. Fridge took about 4 hours to reach -08C and after about 10 hours would cycle on/off every 10 or so minutes. At about the 4 hour mark the fridge stopped and displayed E1 which means low voltage....this was due to me setting battery protection cutout to high which is 11.7V....I set it to low (10.2V) and had no more problems.
Found 1.2v which sometimes went as high as 2.0v drop in the leads which means I'm going to need to make all my cables except first one from house battery at least 6mm. Also I'll do away with the cigarette lighter connection and use an Anderson plug.
Bottom line: battery should be good for a while as it performed well....fridge also performed as expected but will be a lot more reliable with heavier cables. I'm happy.
UPDATE. Wanted to test my new Waeco copy Fridge Freezer on the house battery so set it to -08C with ambient +27C. This way I could gauge how both battery and fridge performed. The fridge I loaded with 4 litres of tap water. Battery was 12.8v at start of 24 hour test and 12.3 at the end. Fridge took about 4 hours to reach -08C and after about 10 hours would cycle on/off every 10 or so minutes. At about the 4 hour mark the fridge stopped and displayed E1 which means low voltage....this was due to me setting battery protection cutout to high which is 11.7V....I set it to low (10.2V) and had no more problems. Found 1.2v which sometimes went as high as 2.0v drop in the leads which means I'm going to need to make all my cables except first one from house battery at least 6mm. Also I'll do away with the cigarette lighter connection and use an Anderson plug.
Bottom line: battery should be good for a while as it performed well....fridge also performed as expected but will be a lot more reliable with heavier cables. I'm happy.
Good Luck.
A good test. the only suggestion that I would make is to return that low voltage cutout to 11.7v. Going down to 10.2v will kill the battery very quickly.
Around 11.8v is generally considered to be dead flat for a 12v battery, so you can imagine what getting below 11v is doing to it.