Now here's one that has me puzzled and wonder if there are any boffins out there who have had a simalar issue and happy to share the solution or helpful ideas?
We have the Jayco Sterling outback 17:22:2 van 2010yr,
the 220v hot water boiler at the rear of the van which is a 17 lt capacity unit is getting steaming hot but when you open the tap mixer at the sink to full hot No hot water comes out ... just cold water? No matter which way you turn the mixer tap you only get a good supply of cold water,
When you open the rear outside hatch door to the boiler and pull on the safety pressure relief valve lever you get very nice hot water coming out the discharge pipe, so I know the boiler element is working fine ( it is only a 220v system and has no gas burner)
Have been under the van and looked for Kinked pipe/s to no avail all looks good, there is a sort of three way valve near to the end of the van have removed and all seems in order when you blow through.
this issue persists when I run the system using the pump and it is the same when I connect a mains hosepipe to the van and we effectivly have mains pressure.
We do not have a bathroom onboard but the rear outside shower has the same issue.
currently at Ayres Rock Caravan park,
Oh and our fridge is almost a waste of time in the heat anything above 28'c and it just cant keep up, I thank my god every day I spent a heep of cash on the old Engel and recently on a new wayco 65lt which resides in the back of the David ( our Patrol)
It's a Jayco, so the first suspicion would be that the plumbing has not been connected correctly.
Has it ever worked properly?
You say that you don't have a bathroom, but is there a tempering valve installed in the pipework?
That may be the rear valve that you mention.
It's interesting that you get cold water even when the taps are in the full hot position. This would tend to rule out a kink or blockage in the hot pipe as, if any of those were at fault, you would be getting no flow in that position.
This really only leaves either...
1. A connection fault, which won't be true if it was once working but is now not. Or
2. A blockage in the hot water side of, or total failure in the tempering valve. This can either restrict hot water passing through the valve to the point that you only get cold water at the tap, or the valve can be fully open to both hot and cold whereupon the cold water, having greater pressure due to the effect of the pressure reduction valve at the hot water tank inlet, will overcome the hot water, and again cause the tap to run cold.
Not sure what you meant about blowing through the valve to test it, most valves will restrict that in some form or other.
Hope this is of some help.
While you are checking out your HWS I have found quite a few that I have looked at lately have needed their sacrificial anode replacing and when I have pulled the old one out lots of white powder comes out as well when I flush the unit out..
You will need a 27mm socket with a reasonable size breaker bar to get it out ..
I buy the standard anode that is around 1200 long and cut it to suit the HWS that I am working on and throw the rest away as it is cheaper than buying the genuine anode.
Yip recon that it is the tempering valve it has the letters C, H, cast on the different inlet/outlets.
I tested the valve by blowing into the different holes and can feel resistance for a bit as I blow harder then the valve opens this is harder for the "C" side.
The hot water has worked properly before so dont think it is incorrectly piped up,
This is a Jayco outback so its the offroad version but strangly Jayco give you an only 220v system that takes a few thousand watt to run!
I am (in my own opinion) of course fairly mechanicaly minded but this one is does seem that the cold water is overiding the hot and curculating back up the line to give plenty of water flow in th eall cold or all hot position.We do have the outside shower hand held so is that why they have fitted the the tempering valve?
Hi Bob,
just seen your comments Thanks for your thoughts,
Our van and system is November 2010 and the boiler has been used about 5 times that I can recall and has up till a day or so ago has only had rain water used in it, I would have hoped to get a little longer out of it than that.
Cheers
As I said earlier, when the tap lever is in the fully hot water position the only way that cold water can come through is if there is cold getting into the line somewhere else. We know that the tank is hot, so need to know why it's not getting to the tap. The only way, assuming there is no piping mix, up is if a mixer set has both taps open but the outlet blocked off, or if the tempering valve is having problems either because it is faulty or it is not getting hot water to it.
Cold water can' t flow back into the heater tank via the tempering valve because there is a non return valve at the tank inlet, so it should be an easy test to turn the tap to full hot and then check the relative temperatures of the pipes going into and out of the tempering valve. If the hot inlet pipe does not show a marked increase in temperature, then odds are that the valve is faulty. Next step would be to turn off the water, relieve the pressure in the heater by briefly opening the PT valve at the top of the tank, carefully disconnect the hot inlet pipe from the tempering valve, turn the water back on and see if hot water comes through that pipe. If it does then the tempering valve is the problem.
If water still does not flow out of that pipe, then you likely have a blockage (most likely anode detritus) in the pipe from the tank.
hi rich and debs
my thought would be to check your flick mixer disconect the easy hooker hose into a bucket and then run it with pressure , be carefull re scolding , as far as your fidge is concerned is it a dometic 150 3 way , first thing i would check is your venting ,open the top vent and make sure it is above the condensor coil going across the back of the fridge if it isnt then it isnt drawing air through the condensor to cool , we had a hell of a lot of trouble with ours , turned out this was what was wrong , and the wrong sice vents too , dometic now say that over a certain size fridge you need a bigger ls300 vent , did ours had 43.c days fridge ran at 2 to 4 deg all day previously it was no good , meat went off in it etc . hope this helps
thanks for your thoughts
