I bought one of the Nulon products from Supercheap for diesels, you add it to your fuel (the total bottle) and because it also mixes with your refills I think they say it is ok for about 4/5 fills, although you would think it would be diluted a lot for further refills with remaining fuel containing it in the tank. So if you bought one of the "premium" diesels and topped it with "regular" diesel from time to time, would that work also (alternating the types used).
However the bloke selling to me told me on the quiet that he used to work for BP and with their diesel they added similar products for the same thing and if you used that you wouldn't have to buy any ? Not sure if he was talking about their Ultimate Diesel though.
Maybe don't drain dry but refill when nearing half a tank
Sounds like that is the way to go. There are others though that you add a measured amount to the tank when you refill, heaps of different brands for much the same purpose at Supercheap.
-- Edited by Duh on Friday 30th of August 2013 04:48:48 PM
I was most interested in what PeterInSa had to say regarding using Nulon products.
I used to listen to Brian Wilshire 9pm -12midnight on am radio and he used to advertise it, but also said he used the product in his vw's and found it worked so from that had them advertising on his show.
I always thought and still do that he was a very straight and honest man, I didn't always follow everything he said but generally would say he wouldn't plug a product if it wasn't what it advertised.
Don't see him on the Cash for Comment trail.
I think you add the additive to the deisel tank every say 4 / 5 fills.
I used to listen to Brian Wilshire 9pm -12midnight on am radio and he used to advertise it, but also said he used the product in his vw's and found it worked so from that had them advertising on his show.
I think my highlighted text gives some indication of its value. Of course he would use it if he has been paid to advertise it.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
I support the theory of good service and maintance. It doesn't matter what brand the additive or the place its supposed to go is there is no substitute for good regular services with quality parts, filters and oils. All the rest are known in the industry as SNAKE OIL.
cheers
blaze
Has anyone done any actual tests on these travelling the same distance on the same road in the same conditions, to get a subjective idea of their benefit.? If these additives were so good, why wouldn't the petrol companies sell petrol with them added, like the different variants of petrol they have now why wouldn't they have something called E200 or whatever with this stuff added already?
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Stewart www.vkportable.com.au www.forums.vkportable.com.au
Years ago there were trials where cars were driven from Sydney to Melbourne without oil, using only an additive that had previously been allowed to impregnate the internal engine parts with a protective coating. As I recall, the only modification was to replace the hydraulic lifters with solid ones.
I added a Nulon product to my sister's car after it had done 10,000km. The engine (petrol) was still going well, without blowby, after 150,000km. IIRC, the instructions stated that the engine needed to wear in before introducing the additive, otherwise the coating (teflon?) would prevent the rings from bedding in.
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"No friend ever served me, and no enemy ever wronged me, whom I have not repaid in full."
Years ago there were trials where cars were driven from Sydney to Melbourne without oil, using only an additive that had previously been allowed to impregnate the internal engine parts with a protective coating. As I recall, the only modification was to replace the hydraulic lifters with solid ones.
I added a Nulon product to my sister's car after it had done 10,000km. The engine (petrol) was still going well, without blowby, after 150,000km. IIRC, the instructions stated that the engine needed to wear in before introducing the additive, otherwise the coating (teflon?) would prevent the rings from bedding in.
An engine with 150 000km on it is barely run in, I know of an old crown that had 450 000km on it and never had a spanner apart from regular services. The test done running the vehicles with no oil in them, I am led to believe by people in the know that before shutting the engine down the oil was replaced and the engine were never reved very hard at all for the trip. Over the years I could tell you of many wonderful story told by the salemen of Addatives, aka micky mouse juice, that a so very easy shown to be false
If these people tell their story enough they start to believe it and so do gulable people
Years ago there were trials where cars were driven from Sydney to Melbourne without oil, using only an additive that had previously been allowed to impregnate the internal engine parts with a protective coating. As I recall, the only modification was to replace the hydraulic lifters with solid ones.
I added a Nulon product to my sister's car after it had done 10,000km. The engine (petrol) was still going well, without blowby, after 150,000km. IIRC, the instructions stated that the engine needed to wear in before introducing the additive, otherwise the coating (teflon?) would prevent the rings from bedding in.
An engine with 150 000km on it is barely run in, I know of an old crown that had 450 000km on it and never had a spanner apart from regular services. The test done running the vehicles with no oil in them, I am led to believe by people in the know that before shutting the engine down the oil was replaced and the engine were never reved very hard at all for the trip. Over the years I could tell you of many wonderful story told by the salemen of Addatives, aka micky mouse juice, that a so very easy shown to be false
If these people tell their story enough they start to believe it and so do gulable people
cheers
blaze
THE one and only time I ever used an oil additive it blew the rear main seal out!! (long story and won a court case) Never again, If it ain't broken, don't try and fix it!!!
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Mark & Linda
A man who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, but ask no questions and your a fool for life!!
I've heard all sorts of things for different people about them. Reason I asked is I've never heard of anyone in the serious off-road 4WD community using these things.
As for the rear main seal - eh mines already shot so I can't bugger that anymore then it already is :)
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Stewart www.vkportable.com.au www.forums.vkportable.com.au
I use an additive in my fuel. Because Myrtle is an old girl and they don't make Lead fuel anymore, I add a lead replacement/valve protective in most fill ups.
Sometimes Nulon, sometimes other brands.
Thanks for the comments, and also thanks to Marge, I think your reasons for using an additive are probably why Brian Wilshire used them. HE did say he drove old vw's because he loved them.
THE one and only time I ever used an oil additive it blew the rear main seal out!! (long story and won a court case) Never again, If it ain't broken, don't try and fix it!!!
Agree with you there Mark, however one oil additive that has worked for me on numerous occasions is "Power Steering Stop Leak" - this swells seals in the rack and pump and has saved me and many people I know heaps over the years.
When someone has something like an old Commodore worth maybe $2500 and the power steering starts leaking, mechanics will usually want around $700 for a reco plus fitting. For $15 a can of stop leak can do the same. Most people driving old cars cannot afford big dollars. I'd never use anything in the engine however although I tried some in an old Jag XJ6L years ago, found nothing can stop a Jag leaking oil.
i use moreys fuel and oil treatment in every thing cept the cillie recon it saved my butt a few times . just dont put anti friction oil in a motor bike lol.