When I last had the need to chase up some brake shoes it was very difficult to just buy the shoes only & expensive.
After checking all the local outlets I went to the local caravan centre , It was cheaper & more practicable to buy the complete backing plate with the new shoes, springs & retainers, & new magnet all ready assembled , just bolt it on.
The days of maching old brake drums/ & rotors are almost gone due to the cost verses the now lower costs of replacements.
If the brakes have been that hot this is the way to go as the springs/retainers all suffer from excess heat. Also need to service the wheel bearings & fit new hub seals as these will be damaged from heat, failure to do so will result in seal failure & grease all over the new brake assy's & then you have to replace them all again.
JC.
-- Edited by justcruisin01 on Friday 1st of March 2013 03:19:18 PM
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Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"
how do we know whether he has drums or discs? 2 completely different scenarios there. Also, some of the cheap Chinese import components that make it not worthwhile to machine the ones you have are poor quality. Which then makes it worth machining yours if they are decent quality drums or discs to start with.
Further to this... If you have AL-KO drum brakes and the mechanic is saying you need to replace the drums because they have somehow been damaged from overheating (unlikely) and he wants to replace them with chinese drums, then the Chinese drums will rub against the newer style AL-KO backing plates. The exact same problem I discovered when trying to get drums to match the 5 stud Cruiser wheels, after I had just bought a new set of AL-KO backing plates.
-- Edited by 03_troopy on Friday 1st of March 2013 06:57:00 PM
Hi All, A question about electric brakes. Have just paid to get new bearings and brake pads replaced on our van they are 254mm or in the old school 10" drums. 3 out of the 4 wheels have over heated and nearly locked on. The bloke has told me the new shoes are made in China and are slightly bigger and I will need to replace the whole brake. Is this true or is he just incapable of doing the job. PLEASE someone let me know. Cheers Rob
sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing the shoes should be adjusted until the shoes just bind and then backed off 14 clicks to give the shoes room to move they need the room as that is the way electric brakes work
I would find it very hard to comment on what you have been told without looking at your brake pads , But if any of my pads needed replaceing I would do the lot so they are all the same . I had my brake pads replaced after 4 years there was still plenty of meat on the pads but the pads had started to showw craking of the pads which I was told could be a problem if peices started breaking off . I only use people that I trust to do my work and in who I then trust .
if the shoes are so badly overheated,,, the brake performance decreases due to glazing (ie the heat burns the surface of the brake shoe leading to brake fade and ultimately brake failure in extreme cases).
Where are you located now,, someone may help with a good mechanic.
Baz
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
How do we know Romany hasn't got a good mechanic already and just shooting the messenger
Well if he can't source standard 10" brake parts I would go somewhere else anyday. You may not be aware of the poor quality of brake components on the market - it's been a long standing problem,,, so be very careful. A 10" brake shoe to fit a 10" drum should NOT need to be radius ground it should match.
Also if brakes get hot they don't normally sieze they fade and don't work (unless they are so badly burned the shoes disintegrate of course and if this was the case the drums are probably stuffed)
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
