We found in our last van that if the fridge was not coping in the warm weather, we swapped it over to Gas and we seemed to have better results. Then at night we would go back to 240 v. Don't know why it worked, was just happy that it did.
I didn't say that the insulation recomdation by manufactures could or should be done by individuals, I know that this is not possibile.
My reference to the point is that failure to do so by caravan/motor home builders could be a contributing factor for so many people having the same problems with their fridges, nothing more nothing less.
As for you acusations of being an idiot with an attitude & ranting, you are way out of line with that.
I have assisted many of the members here with relevent info to problems that have helped them in their situation, I have also meet many of the people & even helped the on site with issues, & a lot of non members as well & all have been very greatfull.
I personally think that three way fridges are a non event in hot conditions, I've had the portable camping fridge & a freezer years back & they were hopless in the northern hot temps to the point where I got rid of them & went to compressor types & have no problems even in the NT temps.
My van has 3way , dont like it & would never have one in a van again, I have fitted two comp fans to the top vent controlled by a on/off switch manually.
This does help but they seem to be very tempermental things.
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Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"
On another point which is more suited and probably destined for "I digress" or on a fatal voyage of being "closed" the GN forum needs a spell and grammar checker.
It would make illiterates who use the following mispelt words of "recomdation" and "manufactures" and "you acusations" and "relevent" and " I have also meet many" and " greatfull" and "hopless"" and "tempermental" gain some credibility.
I am for getting it right, not a babble of misspelt words or being a grandstanding swell headed windbag
Cheers
-- Edited by Nomad246 on Saturday 15th of December 2012 10:56:06 PM
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There are 3 types of people in this world, Ones who make it happen, the second who watches what happens and the third who wonders what happened
Have a look in the top RH corner of the attachment. You will see the GN forum spell checker there.
Most browsers have their own spell checker that also can be used.
Just as importasnt is to go searching for the shift key and use it where appropriate.
From an English Professor -- short and to the point
In the world of hi-tech gadgetry, I've noticed that more and more people who send text messages and emails have long forgotten the art of capital letters. For those of you who fall into this category, please take note of the following statement:
"Capitalization is the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse and helping your uncle jack off a horse."
Clear now?
-- Edited by PeterD on Saturday 15th of December 2012 11:40:41 PM
as thr orignal poster I am prepared to wade through any bad grammer and spelling in search of the answer. I have struggled with both all my life and consider myself lucky compared to some. SO if you dont like my spelling and grammer or that of some one trying to help me, just piss off somewhere else cheers blaze
I have fitted a 80mm computer fan to the outlet vent of the fridge on my last two vans, both Millards. It has improved the fridge performance considerably in hot weather. I believed it was the air flow over the fins that made the difference, but after reading this subject, I now feel it is extracting the heated air from around the exterior fridge that makes the difference. There has been no insulation around the sides of the fridge. I suppose that comes down to production costs. I think most people would pay a little more for a better product.
.. and having looked around mine (in a MH), I find that I still need to insulate better from the inside or else fitted fans would also draw heat from other sources .. I am considering (3) 'puter type fans fitted inside the top cowling/cover .. but also connected to a 12v source and made switcheable rather than using dedicated solar attachments.
3 way fridges are so slow to do their thing, it is no good waiting until the fridge starts to warm up before turning the fan on. If you susspect a hot day turn the fan on in the morning. This is why I would prefer a manual switch to a thermostat controled one. I use a DURATECH 80mm fan from jacar. 28cfm air flow & .1 amp current draw (10 hrs to pull 1 amp from the battery). I run a 35 lt waceo in the car & cool anything warm in it before going into the van fridge. If you watch the temperature guage on the waceo after putting a six pack in it, it's amazing how hot the fridge gets & how long it actually takes to cool it.
On another point which is more suited and probably destined for "I digress" or on a fatal voyage of being "closed" the GN forum needs a spell and grammar checker.
It would make illiterates who use the following mispelt words of "recomdation" and "manufactures" and "you acusations" and "relevent" and " I have also meet many" and " greatfull" and "hopless"" and "tempermental" gain some credibility.
I am for getting it right, not a babble of misspelt words or being a grandstanding swell headed windbag
Cheers
-- Edited by Nomad246 on Saturday 15th of December 2012 10:56:06 PM
It must be a lonely life being perfect, if all you want to do is nittpick then do it else where & get a life.
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Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"
let's come up with options to fix what we have that may not be installed as per your advice as manufacturers of the fridge recommendations
as you now state even you do not have insulation, but your ealier comments focused on it.
(snip)
Love to comply with your quoted fridge manufacturers proceedures ,,, but can't,,,, so why quote something that cannot be done
A quick look down this thread will, I think, reveal that most of the ranting has come from you.
Regarding the insulation piece in the link on the first page. This is the first Dometic document I have seen that has specified insulation at the sides of the fridge. The Australian models handbook I have seen or downloads have all specified the fridges are to be slotted into a close fitting cabinet. Fridges installed that way work efficiently here.
As for the bit "so why quote something that cannot be done," something can and has been done. Read back through the forum. You will see occasions fridges have been fitted into cabinets that have large gaps at the sides of the fridge fridges with large spaces at the top and cases of the heat deflector not being fitted. Members have fitted fans without correcting these problems with little improvement.
You can improve the installations by inserting some insulation in the gap up the sides of the fridge. You only need sufficient to prevent hot air ingress to the side cavities for it to be effective. You then proceed to block the top gap in a similar manner and fit the heat shield Members who have subsequently done that have had a better improvement in performance than fitting the fans, the fans then just became the icing on the cake.
Other problems encountered are the fridge too far from the vans side wall and the top vent too low. The first is very easily fixed by glueing material on the side wall. Timber is OK or foam insulation if you can obtain a suitable adhesive. Make sure it goes the full width of the cabinet and to within 5 - 10 mm of the fins. You get no cooling of the fins if the air bypasses those fins, no matter how many fans you have, air will travel around them rather than take the turbulent path through them.
The top vent is a little harder to fix. If you cab see the ends of the fins through that top vent then the airflow will bypass a lot of the fin area. You need to fix that up. A local repairer fixed one of mine by adding another vent above the existing one and blocking off a lot of the bottom one. By taking out the horizontal frame member that was between the two vents there was enough gap up the cavity in the wall to get the draft up to the top vent. That improved the fridge performance out of sight and I did not have to fit fans. Another way of getting air flow to an additional top vent would be to build your own "spice shelf" above the fridge cabinet. You need to cut sufficient from the top of the cabinet and the wall to fit the second vent and get airflow to it. Just remember to close up the bottom vent to a level higher than the top of the fins.
All of the above needs to be done before you consider fitting fans.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Just a few extra little points to add to Peter D's excellant sum up
The whole aim of air flow is to have the refigerent entering the evaporator as near as poosible to ambient
That will ensure Max cooling efficiency,,although that may not always be needed
Baffling so all air flow goes through the condenser [NO BYPASSING] is important
It will also assist if the boiler section is seperated by a baffle from the rest of the rear[we do not want to cool the boiler or have the heat from the boiler being forced through the condenser]
A 50C thermostat is quite adequate & should be fitted to the top of the condenser fins[As it is the condensor cooling we are concerned with]
Usually middway is around the best , but it can be moved in either direction as a temp adjustment based on the condenser air temp at that point/[check how hot the refrigerent is leaving the condenser & adjust position for coolest operation]
It will then be fully automatic in operation
Having the top vent well above the top level of the condenser is very important, as is blanking off any dead hot air space around or above the fridge
The whole point of the exercise is to have only cool air passing through the condenser
Intermediate vents can detract from the draught effect
Good vents as high as possible@ top & very bottom is what is requiredfor max natural draught
Fans installed either top or bottom [I prefer bottom ] add to the draught & make a very signicant difference when ambient temps are high.
the "Dometic" fridge installation procedures that I posted where it shows that the fridge should be installed with insulation down the sidewalls and top of the cabinet.
I doubt very much if the caravan manufactures would bother to carry out this installation procedure, a lot of the time and the fridge installs I have seen they have difficulty installing the directional heat baffle at the top outlet properly.
HI
All fridges will benifit from extra insulation
The thicker & the better the insulation factor the less heat that CAN GET INTO THE FRIDGE
I cover my Engel with an old doona, leaving the compressor end uncovered of course
I actually packed Styrafoam around my 3way, easy to force in & little mess
But if the condenser is running TOO HOT & HOT refrigerent is entering the evaporator all the insulation will be of little use
Remember, we do not realy want to cool the boiler section ,we are paying for it to be HOT!!
Peter
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Sunday 16th of December 2012 11:45:30 PM
-- Edited by patrolst on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 10:50:03 AM
This site shows insulation wool between the fridge & cabinates, both top & sides.
How many have got this?
We have the heat deflector plate as original equipment.
JC.
Good link there JC, thanks for that.
My fridge, 2453T , the 'T' is very important, it is TROPICAL rated, 121L
I have pushed insulating wool into the small space above the fridge and there is virtually no space between the cabinet sides and the walls of the recess.
The fridge works perfectly to me, on 12v traveling the difficulty is a tendency to freeze lettuce etc. On gas or 240 I set the dial to 3.5 and then LEAVE it. Most mornings the temp is 0 - 1deg c and by 6pm it may get up to 4.5c.
The mistake a lot of ppl make is 'chasing' the temp, they turn it up overnight and down during the day if the temp climbs a bit. LEAVE it.
I have fitted a fan blowing out the top vent via a temp sensor on the heat tube for extreme climate conditions and also have done the sail-track with shade cloth to keep the sun off the fridge back.
I couldn't be happier with my 3 way.
Cheers Neil
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Neil & Lynne
Pinjarra
Western Australia
MY23.5 Ford Wildtrak V6 Dual Cab / 21' Silverline 21-65.3
That's interesting Pricey, maybe the extra heat of gas caused something
Thanks for the idea
Cheers
Yes, the gas may be the hottest source,as it is gas pressure dependent, BUT beware, sustained overheating can cause problems , sometimes permanent damage
So flame /gas pressure should be correct
Best to cool the condensor & not the boiler[ let it run at the correct heat input as set by the element wattage or correct gas pressure
Ive just read these posts my goodness im alarmed that the webmaster has. Actualy let it continue how rude To out somebody down for there spelling mistakes,my husband is terrible at spelling but he has a brain and two Hands that can virtualy build and fix anything .
I cannot believe it that someone can be so small minded and talk about attitude of others then come out with Dribble about people using spell check ,if you cant figure it out there is something drastic wrong because i can Always make out what people mean even if they have made mistakes !!! No wonder people leave forums due to ignorance
-- Edited by glassies on Monday 17th of December 2012 10:44:23 PM
Ive just read these posts my goodness im alarmed that the webmaster has. Actualy let it continue how rude To out somebody down for there spelling mistakes,my husband is terrible at spelling but he has a brain and two Hands that can virtualy build and fix anything .
I cannot believe it that someone can be so small minded and talk about attitude of others then come out with Dribble about people using spell check ,if you cant figure it out there is something drastic wrong because i can Always make out what people mean even if they have made mistakes !!! No wonder people leave forums due to ignorance
-- Edited by glassies on Monday 17th of December 2012 10:44:23 PM
I wasn't going to say anything but if I did I couldn't have said it better.
<edited for spelling mistake.>
-- Edited by Delta18 on Monday 17th of December 2012 11:03:35 PM
__________________
Neil & Lynne
Pinjarra
Western Australia
MY23.5 Ford Wildtrak V6 Dual Cab / 21' Silverline 21-65.3
-- Edited by patrolst on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 10:50:03 AM
This site shows insulation wool between the fridge & cabinates, both top & sides.
How many have got this?
We have the heat deflector plate as original equipment.
JC.
Good link there JC, thanks for that.
My fridge, 2453T , the 'T' is very important, it is TROPICAL rated, 121L
I have pushed insulating wool into the small space above the fridge and there is virtually no space between the cabinet sides and the walls of the recess.
The fridge works perfectly to me, on 12v traveling the difficulty is a tendency to freeze lettuce etc. On gas or 240 I set the dial to 3.5 and then LEAVE it. Most mornings the temp is 0 - 1deg c and by 6pm it may get up to 4.5c.
The mistake a lot of ppl make is 'chasing' the temp, they turn it up overnight and down during the day if the temp climbs a bit. LEAVE it.
I have fitted a fan blowing out the top vent via a temp sensor on the heat tube for extreme climate conditions and also have done the sail-track with shade cloth to keep the sun off the fridge back.
I couldn't be happier with my 3 way.
Cheers Neil
Thanks Neil for this info, you are the first to admitt to fitting some insulation where possibile & happy with the result.
This is the reason in the first place for drawing attention to the manufactures recomendations that is not carried out by installers as being a contributing factor to ongoing problems for many people, for which I was deemed an idiot with an attitude.
Your achievment & results strenghthen the point made.
Prior to Blaze starting this topic & reading the installation requirments I was in the process of looking at a suitable material to do what is recomended in the link as I beleived that this was a problem area.
I have since looked at the possibility of fitting the insulation as stated , there will be no problem in doing this accross the top & down the sides, & dont have to dismantle the van as suggested previously.
Once again, thanks Neil.
JC.
__________________
Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"
Just for your info JC .. I've been doing tests with this product and I think it may be a good consideration for its ease of use as a gap/insulation around the fridge ..
so far I'm impressed with it .. food for thought eh !
Just for your info JC .. I've been doing tests with this product and I think it may be a good consideration for its ease of use as a gap/insulation around the fridge ..
so far I'm impressed with it .. food for thought eh !
I have successfully used this product for reasons unrelated to fridge insulation and had thought about for the van's fridge. However I have been wondering whether it would make subsequent removal of the fridge difficult if for some reason it became neccessary to do so.
As long as folks don't take this as 'generic' comment for all similar items. I have no affiliation with any manufacturers and these are my own opinions ..
I wanted to first find something with a resistance to flame/heat but also retain insulation and sound proofing capabilities. Then it also needed some flexibilty .. so far, so good ! My biggest obstacle was to find a consistancy of "expansion" .. That, I feel I've sorted out by applying the product in a cool environment (below 20C) .. the end result being that it slowed down the 'expansion' process providing me more time to apply it .. expansion and curing did take noticeably longer so I wouldn't touch it for a full 24 hrs.
Another thing I noticed (and it may be the same as similar products) .. was that it needed to be applied in smallish beads to make the seal. After expansion and curing was complete, then it is was then easier to apply further "beads" where necessary to achieve the seal desired without having to do masses of trimming off of unwanted "expansion".
Incidentally Jim .. this stuff will stick hard too as you've no doubt discovered .. I didn't want to have to scratch it off the sides of the fridge etc later if removal was necessary .. so I actually found that if "oven cooking bags" were cut appropriately and lightly taped around the fridge to act as a non-stick bridge between the fridge and the expansion foam, that it worked just beautifully ..well, for 2 weeks at least after which it was removed and both surfaces were free of any adhesion .. however .. thats the short term though .. still, that's what I hope to do sometime in the new year .. will advise when all is done.
Just for your info JC .. I've been doing tests with this product and I think it may be a good consideration for its ease of use as a gap/insulation around the fridge ..
so far I'm impressed with it .. food for thought eh !
I have successfully used this product for reasons unrelated to fridge insulation and had thought about for the van's fridge. However I have been wondering whether it would make subsequent removal of the fridge difficult if for some reason it became neccessary to do so.
I'd be interested in your comments.
Jim
Thanks Jon, I had looked at this product & like Jimricho considered the problems of a fridge removal if that was needed to be done at a future date.
As for my original theroy about the non fitment of insulation, & being told that it was impossibile to do with out dismantling the van/mtr home I have just completed the installation of insulation wool, to both sides from top to bottom & full depth of the fridge.
The same installation accross the top section & up to the bench top, all packed in tight with no air gaps.
This impossibile job was done with the only removal being the two air vents, & all completed in one hour. Thanks to all with a positive view on this topic.
JC.
__________________
Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"