R11a is .2 ohm 2 watt metal film resistor, for that to blow Q1 is either shorted or turned on & not switching. R8 is 22 ohm 1 watt resistor, this is what drives Q1. if it was alreay blown then that may be the cause of R11 blowing. Q1 may also now be faulty. May be time to look at using an external 12V dc powersuply from someone like Jaycar.

so ive replaced everything that appears to be burnt, and now it blows the mains fuse,which didn't blow initially, I did replace Q1 again. would it be the voltage spike protection? i have ordered a couple but is there anyway to test the one on the board?
i can a new one down the road
www.allvolts.com.au/catalogue/4330_item.html
but won't if i can fix this one! nothing else burns so i think I've improved it, just the fuse..

The yellow blocks are capacitors & should be ok unless shorted. Check the mains bridge rectifier for shorts. $189 for a new powersupply is a bid dear. You should be able to by a 12V 6Amp Dc powersupply cheeper?

i have his fridge running on a external power supply, just have this in the shed and come back to it every now and then!

Just so you know where I'm going in advance, Waeco runs fine on 240AC & 24 Vdc, but not on 12Vdc...and I know just enough to be dangerous...(~;

Hi there, not so sure I'm doing this right, but will dive in the deep end... have a similar problem to above stories and all internet searches show you guys as the only viable help...tried the Waeco service people, but usual response..(just bring it in and let us overcharge you-how much...the only info I was given is, the unit auto-detects 12/24..)

I was building up a bus, but it got stolen...To cut a long story short, I have a Waeco CF110, new in about '05 or '06..superseded when the new series with digital readout came along..
(I think it's a series A mk2..? does that sound right?) external power supply ( MPS-50A 12/24dc/240ac )

Ran it on 240 for a while, no probs and then parked it up...'til...went camping and...
Plugged into 12 v battery charged from 80 W panel,(not through the mobitronic, figured I didn't need it), and all seemed fine (kindof)- fan runs, indicator lights and controls do their stuff, but it doesn't get cold.
Thought it must need to run 12V through the Mobitronic, but no-go on 12v supply as above(soft or hard wired, only outputs 12V).

I plugged back into 240v- runs fine, bodged up a 24V system, and it runs fine...!

almost there....with questions!
Mobitronic supplies 24V out from 240 mains input, and 12vdc only out from 12V dc input, and the circuit board beside the fan I think corresponds ok.

Q1, Is the DC output from 12 V in, intended to be 12V only...?...which is why I just ran straight from 12V battery supply?

Q2, Does the compressor run on 12vdc, or 24vdc, or both, or is there magic circuitry inside where I can't access..other than the circuit board beside the fan?
( ie; in the white distro box, +,-,B+,F,D,C,P,T )

Q3, Is this a simple solution, ie making it possible to run from 12v, if not I'll just continue to bodge up 24 v...??
I have some photos, when I figure out that bit.

Thanks in advance, duTch- if there's anything I can do to help, let me know, cheers

Thanks for your input DeBe,

           I was a little confused at first by the wiring colours,(mainly camera angle) but think I worked it out-

So far as I can tell, it seems you have disconnected 'C' (white) and 'T'(yellow) and bridged/looped these with the red wire .(?)
With that configuration,- (photo #2) from 12.2v supply, I have 12.13v at top terminals +/-, and the fan and compressor both run.

  Is there a fuse anywhere? (odd if not), as when I was checking what wires went where, I dropped the main feed (Red/red) and it arced off the compressor body (yeah I know- should've disconned it!!), so now under normal connectivity, nothing happens (but ok for above test), figured a blown fuse, but none to be seen(?), might add one!

I don't have a second yellow wire to '+', but a thin red piggy backed onto thick red main power '+' instead, (as per photo #1- hopefully).

What exactly is in the box we're dealing with? a control box for the 12/24v sensor, or where does that..??, can't figure how to remove/inspect it without major surgery- or if need be..?..(~;

With everything connected normal, for what it's worth I have the following readings

@  12v  / 24v

      12.3   / 26.9    @ all 4 wires connected to +,+

         3.7  /    3.9          @  'D'

         0.2  /  0.2            @  'C' ,'P' -

         3.1  /   3.2           @    'T' 

 Hopin' I haven't totally destroyed it, do those results tell anything?

 Cheers and thanks again, duTch.

I thought I already posted another edit of this, but seems to have disappeared..!!

 

-- Edited by duTch on Saturday 3rd of May 2014 08:01:29 AM

That picture was to show where to measure the input voltage, the red wire loop was for forcing the compressor to run. There should be a control board somewhere? can you post a picture of it? What you have shown is the Compressor control box, & you appear to have 12V on the top 2 conectors. There should be a fuse usualy inside the cigarette lighter type plug. If you have wired a different plug on the lead then you should have a fuse somewhere fitted to the lead. Is your temp control a slidecontrol? The control board will look something like this.

This is the Compressor controller. To make absolutely sure I would bridge  C & T . The compressor should run with 12V supplied to the top 2 terminals. If it doesn't then there is probably a fault with the controller. They aren't cheap around $250.

Hello again.

    I hope this all makes sense..??....it's taken all day to do it!!!!
            
 This Waeco  (CF 110 series 1/Mk2-? ) is still causing grief.Waeco/Danfoss arent very helpful at all..!!!!! bring it in and well give you a quote cant be all that hard..?.So, Im looking at changing bits until its fixed..unless someone has a better idea, other than burn it..?

The short version;-
      Please, I need to identify these bits (see photo) or find alternatives; Ive wasted time setting this out as I see it in situ.

Chip on Temp. operating/control board;-  numbers missing (photo #1)
4CCEF8M
SN74H>?<N ?     I assumed   # 74HC14N

..and on main control board ?
X1  # 3.58M (+ a symbol-)   looks like a Tantalum Cap but peanut shape...?....Closeup see Photo #2

U3              LANEM78P458AP-G
                        0502RBG5143                 See Photo #3

U4                          ATMEL426                   "      "     "
                                  24C02 
                                PPP127D

Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4;-         8050S                        "      "      "
                                  C331
                               
 A longer version ~;-
I took some time to process all the previous informationreasonably straight forward.
Had to then put it on the back-burner  (almost feel like adding it to anything that burns..!!!).

 After a lot of searches I found and bit the bullet and bought a new Comp.control Module (101N0220), but still not a lot of glory, but in theory should eliminate that as a problem.

It doesnt generally show any LEDs but cools to 0 on mains->24V, on emergency, and on12v  almost, but doesnt quite start,  even with ~13V supply.if Im lucky sometimes get a voltage error  (1 flash/4secs).
   It all suggests to me that one of the startup/control chips or a capacitor may be at fault..??

 I'm trying to identify some components that I thought may be easy to replace as I had a blown chip on the Temp Control Panel (photo attached), but I can only see 4CCEF8M  SN74HCN, so took a punt and bought a 74HC14N, which made a difference (enabled on/off button) but not sure if its the correct part?

          
                             Thanks again in advance, duTch

-- Edited by duTch on Tuesday 25th of November 2014 06:07:13 PM

Thanks Dorian, much appreciated- I'll have a read.. the 7805 did in fact cook and I've replaced it that's a 5v one and it seems the 7810 is 10v (makes sense by the # but not necessarily !! )
I thought 74HC looked like it needed n extra digit

Cheers (I'll turn the gas down on the front burner)

 

Yo Debe, I tried to garner as much info as I could from your other photos, but figured not much point....

I've added photos of each boards front and reverse, and the reverse side of each board flipped vertical for easy(?) viewing- hope that's helpful

 Sorry about the last three being bigger files/resolution...!!

Jaycar close by, so I've replaced the (sn) 74HC164n, but still only runs on 240/24v Emergency gets to <0/0, and kicks in for a bit on 12v but drops out quickly with the voltage error light (1 FLSH/4 SEC.) supply is a bit over 12v, and drops to 11.5ishV under start load...

I've also made a list of all the resistor values, as far as I can determine from the colours which ~match their values in situ. (isolated), and all other bits same.

 

PS, I meant to add that I'm ok with trying to repair the boards as a learning exercise, but if I can buy new ones at a reasonable price would also be ok....?

 

-- Edited by duTch on Wednesday 26th of November 2014 08:22:11 PM

I would measure the voltages at the compressor control board's terminal block. That will tell us what the Waeco main board is doing.

 Thanks Debe and Dorian,  had a quick read- so if I find one of those, and ? connect to C,P,T &(D) then I can eliminate Operating panel, and Control Board?

Ive checked the Voltage at the Control Module  (101N0220) see below;- seems every time I reconnect, something different happensthis time the compressor has continued to run on 12v (Emergncy)~ , and I feel immediate cold on the comp. outlet pipe....well for a while..

 Note that with D,C,P, T all disconnected, readings at module pins with 12.V in, are:
 D   0.0        (3.6v @ Wire end)
 C   0.0
 P   4.95
 T   4.95


Input SupplyVoltage
   
            Mains/24v                Doesn't start on normal Inputs)    ~12v/13.3v          

    24v                               24v                                12v                             12v
    Emergency PWR.     Normal Input                   Normal Input               Emergency            
    (-ve)    0.0
    +    27.0v                 27.15v                            13.08v                       12.3v
    +      v                      v                                   V                              v
F            15.0                23.92v                            10.07v                        0.35v
D      3.6-3.9v                 4.05v                              3.67v                        3.68v
C         0.2                      0.0 v                               0.0v                          0.0v

P        0.04                   0.0v (4.95v disconnected)   0.0v                          0.07v/ (4.95v disconnected)   

T        0.2                       4.95v                   4.97-5.01v                    0.22/   (4.95v              )
  
  With T jumped to C @12V, there is only ~0.07v @ T

I'll go have a hunt for a "WH7016C Thermostat Product'                Thanks yet again, duTch

 

I thought I posted this reply, but it must've failed.... so extra update at bottom

 Hi Dorian, I was in the middle of isolating each resistor to check them, but had a small interruption from a "light rain shower" here...torrential storm actually!!! I think they are mostly ok, depending on tolerances.. I need to go do a job, so will try and analyze that and reassess later when I get back

It seems something isn't switching, as nothing happens when I do the on/off button, and the only LED that fires up is the 'error'. I think the operating panel (for the most part at least) is ok, and I suspect one or more of the three trannies  (8050S C331), but I tried RS, Jaycar and Prime but they don't seem to be available in Oz, the guy at Jaycar suggested trying BC 639 021. (I understand the difference between these is 80V/1.0A, rather than 20V/1.5A..?)

 I think it's likely it needs a whole new board...??

 cheers

 

Update-  with my extensive knowledge of Transistors and ceramic resonators garnered from a 10 minute internet session, apart from one trannie with a broken leg (Q4), all three tested with readings of ~ 980 (ohms?) between two sets of two of the three pins, with each set having a common (NPN), and only in one direction using the diode function..  so I replaced the one with the broken leg (Q4) with the above BC 639 021, which had a test reading of ~960 ( ?). The Resonator broke off completely, so I found a blue one(same value) at Prime Electronics, but they only had a three pin one which I soldered in and disregarded the centre pin. (gnd?)

 

  So having done all that, nothing really changed, still only runs constant on 24V (to -10C freezer/0C fridge).......

 

I've had a look at results for the WH7016C Thermostat, and there's a few different versions- still processing that one.