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Post Info TOPIC: Wiring solar panels, in series.


Member

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Wiring solar panels, in series.


Hi Everyone,
I have just purchased 2 x 200 watt solar panels and wish to find the most efficient way to wire them in,in series.
Both panels have three (3) posts, consistng of earth,power out and a second power out,which has a diode between the 2 power out poles.
How do I connect in series without damaging panel itself,using the third (diode) post ?.
Your advice is valued

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Newbie

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Is your battery bank 12v or 24v?

Geoff

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It aint the box, it's the people.


Member

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Hi Geoff,
12 volt panels and 12 volt dual batteries.
cheers FnOzi...

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Member

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Also,whilst I have you expertise,I will be using a 1500watt inverter to run several low wattage appliances (lights and fan on rangehood) and possibly toaster oven,and?,maybe a m/wave.
Question,how many 800cca batteries will be required ?.
cheers FnOzi...

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Veteran Member

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no

FnOzi

Collyn Rivers in his books advises running any heating devices off batteries is a big NO NO. may be a very good idea to purchase a couple of his books-- a wealth of information.

Besides if you wire up in series ( positive to negative ) you will be producing  24v , which you will have to convert back to 12v before the current reaches the solar regulater --- much better to wireup in parraell (positive to positive & neg to neg )

just my 2bobs worth -- probably get shot down in flames

Edit: either Gel or AGM batteries --- you can run down to 50% -- so a 120v battery is only 
good for 60v .

work out the total wattage you will be using per 20 hours and this will give you the
battery size requierd --- keeping in mind solar is only fully charging 3 to 5 hrs per day --- along with current loss via wireing etc 

 
Coyotte



-- Edited by coyotte on Saturday 11th of September 2010 07:39:52 PM

-- Edited by coyotte on Saturday 11th of September 2010 07:41:51 PM

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Member

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Hi coyote,
I maybe did not explain myself correctly.I meant in parallel.
The problem I have is on the panel itself.
Three poles, > 1 x earth +
2 x power poles,one with a diode.
I believe the diode is in place to stop power from #1 panel feeding into #2 panel,or is this not an issue with solar ?.
Cheers and thanks for your time.
FnOzi...

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Guru

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Wire the two output posts that are not connected to the cells in the panel together. They go to the positive input on your regulator.

On a system of the size you are operating, I would not use an inverter to power any heating device. Your batteries will give less total power out when you discharge them quickly compared to the normal slow discharge. If you are using an inverter bigger than 300 - 600 W then you are hitting your batteries too hard

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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.



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Hi PeterD,
I appreciate your time and thanks again for the wonderful advice.
I will post a pic tomorrow of the connections on the panels and maybe the pic will self explain the query I have in relation to the wiring.
I have not given the right info in words to sort the problem.
As they say a picture paints a 1000 words.
Thanks again for the heads-up on the inverter.
Cheers FnOzi...

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Guru

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FnOzi, it is apparent that you need to start from scratch and learn about the systems that you want to use. The Collyn Rivers books would be a good investment for that, as suggested.
Alternatively, get someone else who knows about this stuff to do it for you, but firstly you need some realistic expectations of what is practical and what you then want to achieve.

Just on your posts so far.......
1. Forget about the microwave. Our system is much bigger than you propose and it is not big enough for a microwave.
2. Forget about the toaster oven. Same as above.
3. Whether it is best to wire your panels in parallel or series depends on the solar controller that you intend to use. What is it?
3. Is the 1500W inverter a MSW or Pure Sine Wave Inverter. On the basis that it is not going to run the toaster oven or microwave anyhow, why such a large inverter?
4. CCA800 batteries are cranking batteries, not storage / deep cycle batteries and are totally unsuitable for the purpose that you intend to use them for.

Cheers,
Peter

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OKA196, 4x4 'C' Class, DIY, self contained motorhome. 880W of solar, 400Ah of AGMs, 280L water, 280L fuel. http://tinyurl.com/OKA196xtMotorhome
 

 



Member

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Hi Peter,
I will post pics of all components to ensure my info is correct,and to sort this ouit.
I have been given my info from a dealer (Battery world-Bundaberg),so I am at a loss as to what is going on .
I trust "experts" too much maybe.
I will Get back soon.
Thanks again for your wonder ful heads-up.
FnOzi...

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Member

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Hi Everyone,(again),,sorry to be a pain.
Please view attachments of components I have for this set-up,I would appreciate any relevant input.
Components consist of ;
2 x 200 w panels,
2 x batteries;
1 x 30 amp regulator.
This set-up is for and on behalf of my neighbour who asked me for assistance in installing the above to his Coaster.
No elements will be used (M/wave,toaster etc),thanks to the advice given on their unsuitability.
I have a bus conversion in progress (Volvo B58),but I have a while to go before I am ready for any solar set-up,but my neighbour (Ralph - Coaster) is committed to leave on his 4 week oddessey this coming w/end,so no time to buy and study Collyn Rivers book.
I will attempt help him get it right,in the short space of time available.
Pics are of components are self explanetary.
Looking forward to hearing your valued opinions.

Attachments
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Guru

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FnOzi, I have never heard of those batteries, so don't know if they are good quality or not, but they quote C20 at 100Ahrs which is the total power that you can draw from them in 20 hours. In practice you should only draw them down to 50% of that. Not below 12.0V.

Wire the batteries together positive to positive and negative to negative using cable like is on your car or bigger and using proper crimped terminals in all locations.
The same with the solar panels and down to the controller using the biggest cable that will fit into the terminals and keep all cable as shprt as possible.
You wont hurt the solar panels even if you short circuit them. I don't know why they have 2 +ves.

There should be instructions with the Morning Star. It is a good controller. The terminals on it are clearly marked, but it is sometimes important to make the connections in the correct order, so do what the instructions say.
The controller will possibly need programming to suit the batteries and panels. I have never done one of these, but it should be all explained in the instructions.

You don't tell us anything about the inverter (12VDC to 240VAC).
I presume it is a square wave inverter. Be very careful with this. It can wreck electronic stuff. It needs VERY big short cables (welding cable) from the batteries to the inverter (+ve and -ve) and first class crimp terminals.
Is it a new one? If not, it may not be isolated and could present an electric shock hazard, in any case NEVER plug more than one item into it at a time. The 240V power this makes can kill you just like the power at home.

All power take offs from the batteries should be properly fused with slow blow fuses that are smaller than the current carrying capacity of the cable that you use, but bigger than the anticipated maximum loads. A short circuit will burn the vehicle to the ground if the fuses don't do their job.

Make very sure that all these components are properly secured (at least as well as the batteries in your car).
The batteries need to be in an externally ventilated compartment that is away from gas installations and fridge pilot lights or other ignition sources so that any gas they give off during charging is not an explosion risk.

What have I forgotten????
This is not a couple of hours job. DO NOT cut corners!
Make sure you get those books!
Hope that helps.

Cheers,
peter

-- Edited by Peter_n_Margaret on Sunday 12th of September 2010 09:07:40 PM

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OKA196, 4x4 'C' Class, DIY, self contained motorhome. 880W of solar, 400Ah of AGMs, 280L water, 280L fuel. http://tinyurl.com/OKA196xtMotorhome
 

 



Veteran Member

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looking at that solar panel it is not 200W. what is the measurement length and width of the solar panel?  the solar panel has a dodgy amount of cells. 12v panel should have 36 cells.

(negative comments removed by webmaster)

-- Edited by Paul-NSW on Sunday 12th of September 2010 10:02:51 PM

-- Edited by Webmaster on Monday 20th of September 2010 07:14:46 AM

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Member

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Hi Everyone,
I can see nightmares coming out of this installation.
The inverter mentioned is for MY bus (B58 Volvo,former school bus)),which is 24 v,same as my 1800 watt inverter.I will deal with the issues when the time comes for me to install my system.
As stated,the 2 x 200w solar panels,2 x batts,and regulator are for my neighbour,Ralph.
Yes,I will get him to join this site asap.He is new to computers ,so I am doing the leg-work on his behalf.The batts will be returned this week,back to "Battery World",where I will personally look forward to tearing strips of of the salesman.
Ralph paid $300- EACH for them !.
I still have some months of bodywork to complete before (roof has been raised,doors removed and a new entry fitted ,rear boot installed etc) I am even in a position to start the fit-out,and yes,I will source the book by Collyn Rivers on solar, prior to commencing my project.
You have possibly saved a fire or similar catastrophy with your input on the subject,so,A HUGE THANK-YOU IS DUE TO THOSE WHO TOOK THE TIME TO EDUCATE US,NO DOUBT YOU ALL DESERVE A RETURN OF FAVOURS,SO IF I CAN BE OF ANY HELP AT ANYTIME YOU ARE IN CHILDERS,FEEL MORE THAN WELCOME TO ASK.
Cheers FnOzi... > 0741267177 > 0410024651 > anytime.

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Member

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PS, can anyone suggest the correct batteries for this (Ralph's)application ?.
Cheers FnOzi...

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Guru

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Paul

The solar panel is 9 cells high by 6 cells wide. It looks like the panels being sold by the solar shops around my way.

The battery is a marine battery. It is a dual use one that will give a fair life.

If I were you I would be careful about making defamatory statements like you did, you might find that statements will come back to bite you. I have found Battery World to be a good mob to deal with.

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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.



Member

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Posts: 22
Date:

Peter and Paul,
I appreciate both comments,BUT,
The regulator and batteries were both purchased at Batt. world,along with the specific emphasis that they were (obviously) for a solar set-up,so Iam told,so on this point I believe Paul has some relevant input and I have taken that on board for future reference.
I thank you both.
Cheers FnOzi...

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Veteran Member

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PeterD wrote:
Paul
The solar panel is 9 cells high by 6 cells wide. It looks like the panels being sold by the solar shops around my way.
The battery is a marine battery. It is a dual use one that will give a fair life.

(negative comments removed by webmaster)

for quality batteries look to Fullriver DC series http://www.rjbatteries.com.au/battery/leisure-batteries/fullriver
 Lion Batteries Global and stay away from Ritar.
expect to pay around $240 for 120Ah $320 for $150Ah.

 



-- Edited by Webmaster on Monday 20th of September 2010 07:17:00 AM

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Newbie

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MMMMMMMM

Can't find any 'notify with an email when there is a new post in this thread' type thing in this forum. A lot has happened since my little question.

Someone needs to be told that 'everything is new to the man who hasn't seen it'. Applies to girls too :)).

Another forum, sheesh. How do you find the time Peter :))

Geoff.


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Pam


Guru

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Geoff Clifton wrote:

MMMMMMMM

Can't find any 'notify with an email when there is a new post in this thread' type thing in this forum. A lot has happened since my little question.

Someone needs to be told that 'everything is new to the man who hasn't seen it'. Applies to girls too :)).

Another forum, sheesh. How do you find the time Peter :))

Geoff.



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