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Post Info TOPIC: Rated Voltage vs Operating Voltage


Senior Member

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Rated Voltage vs Operating Voltage


Purchased a solar panel with controller. Controller rated voltage is 12VDC / 24VDC but operating voltage is 8V. Now this is not enough to actually charge my van battery as it seems to be protected by a 12V controller as all I can hear is click-click-click........ from the controller and my 12V LED lights just flicker. I suspect that I may need to bypass the controller and run the solar panel direct to the van battery. Anyone else had this issue?



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2015 Ranger XLT - 2014 Jurgens Sungazer



Senior Member

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Posts: 389
Date:

Think I've found the answer after playing around with all sorts of connections.

Operating Voltage appears to be the minimum voltage that the panel will charge at. If a battery has less than 8v of charge, the panel will not charge.
It would appear that my Anderson Plug is connected to the power from the car battery and not the power from the on-board battery. The van power module shows 1.1v (which is what is showing on my Anderson Plug) when no car battery connected which off course is < 8v and that's what the solar control is detecting.

Couldn't be fixed with a hammer, so I guess it was electrical.






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2015 Ranger XLT - 2014 Jurgens Sungazer



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Spydermann wrote:

Purchased a solar panel with controller. Controller rated voltage is 12VDC / 24VDC but operating voltage is 8V. Now this is not enough to actually charge my van battery as it seems to be protected by a 12V controller as all I can hear is click-click-click........ from the controller and my 12V LED lights just flicker. I suspect that I may need to bypass the controller and run the solar panel direct to the van battery. Anyone else had this issue?


Hi

Whatever you do please don't bypass the controller, solar panels can produce around 21 volts in direct sunlight, this may cause damage to the battery if its directly connected to the panel, the controller reduces that voltage to charge the battery. You may have issues with the controller or it may be too cloudy to produce the correct voltage. Also the controller has a device to stop the battery discharging back to the panel.

I would get the whole rig checked by a competent solar expert.

Cheers



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Guru

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Post up some details of what your panels and controller are. Brand and Model Number, or better yet, post up some pics of the labels or the packaging. Because, to be honest, I haven't got a clue what you mean at the moment...

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Guru

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Posts: 2138
Date:

Hi Spyderman


Just trow the controller regulator way
All the ones that are glued to the panel 9 out of ten are rubbish
Get your self a decent one from evilbay or your favorite shop
One of them costed me a 360 dollar battery
If you don't know which one to buy The experts here will tell you wich one to get
( I'm no expert at all )

Cheers John

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