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Post Info TOPIC: Waeco Powersupply


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RE: Waeco Powersupply


also wondered about the yellow blocks, are they capacitors? as they run between the active and neutral. my multimeter doesn't seem to read anything off them..

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so ive replaced everything that appears to be burnt, and now it blows the mains fuse,which didn't blow initially, I did replace Q1 again. would it be the voltage spike protection? i have ordered a couple but is there anyway to test the one on the board?
i can a new one down the road
www.allvolts.com.au/catalogue/4330_item.html
but won't if i can fix this one! nothing else burns so i think I've improved it, just the fuse..

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think i have another q1, will get the 2w resistor and have another go!


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R11a is .2 ohm 2 watt metal film resistor, for that to blow Q1 is either shorted or turned on & not switching. R8 is 22 ohm 1 watt resistor, this is what drives Q1. if it was alreay blown then that may be the cause of R11 blowing. Q1 may also now be faulty. May be time to look at using an external 12V dc powersuply from someone like Jaycar.



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D.L.Bishop


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thanks for the previous help, I've now replaced ic1, q1, r9, but when i connected it up to 240v, i blew r11a and r 8. any ideas? r8 may have been blown already, i didn't notice until now that its blown but r11a went when i plugged it in. does r11a need to be replaced with any special type of resistor? do i need to buy a whole new unit?? spent a fair bit of time on it!

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Thats quite right powersuply has 25V printed on it, but in reality they put out 27V & they are fine at that voltage. If you was running a fridge off a vehicle that was 24V, the voltage would go up around 28V when the altenator is charging. The control box on the compressor will handle a max of 31.5V on 24v. And 17V max on 12V use.Waeco Ps15.JPG



-- Edited by DeBe on Saturday 14th of December 2013 10:26:34 AM

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D.L.Bishop


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ISTM that R18, R19, and R20 in the circuit diagram are setting the output voltage to approximately 28V, not 24V.

Vout = Vref x (R18 + R19 + R20) / (R19 + R20) = 2.5 x (26.5 + 2.4 + 0.22) / (2.4 + 0.22) = 27.8V



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bairsjw wrote:

Also ordered this one but now think it is wrong, as it is a B not an A!

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp


This one should be fine as its specs are the same as the A, probably just a later version of the original. 



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D.L.Bishop


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Also ordered this one but now think it is wrong, as it is a B not an A!

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp

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I have ordered this one..

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp

Pretty sure it's right!

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The UC3842 is a Switch Mode Power Supply driver IC. I would be using the original IC number. There is 3 other UC 38xx types which are different. The Mosfet may also be damaged. Here is the Data on the UC3842A controller chip, the Ic you are getting should match this, as far as I know there is only one UC3842A IC.UC3842A.1.jpgUC3842A.2.jpgUC3842A.3.jpg



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D.L.Bishop


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As mine is blown and the number is no longer viewable I searched using your picture but the number comes up with a couple of possibilities with different following letters ( not on the ic in the picture) the difference being the output voltage, any idea which one I should be using? I have also bought the MOSFET so will replace at the same time.

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The UC3844 is a Switch Mode Power Supply driver IC. I would be using the original IC number. There is 3 other UC 38xx types which are different. The Mosfet may also be damaged.

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D.L.Bishop


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Hi i know its an old post, but was wondering if anyone can tell me either from experience or the circuit diagram what Uc3844 does. I have a blown one (wet foam had fallen on the MOSFET after replacing a thermistor) and there are 2 available on a search of the ic number on element14 that are nearly identical, the only difference one outputs 5v, the other 13.4 v. Can someone tell me which one is right? ( I've ordered both as they are only $2.60 each!) thanks in advance!

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Hi Dan, i would try one from Altronics, PTC fuse R4562A for $1.50 they have a trip current of 7.5Amp.



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Dan


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Hi everyone,

I have been inspired to pull my waeco cf 50 out of the never to be seen again black hole in my shed as I think it has a blown polyfuse and would like to replace it. From what I have read I think need to replace it with a larger capacity one. Can anyone tell me what polyfuse I should use?

Cheers,

Dan

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I have a problem with my Waeco on 240 volt as it made a sizzling sound when I turned the240 volt on and it blew the circuit breaker in the van and on the site power pole.
I have not looked at it yet but it still works on 12 volt when there is power in the dual battery
Ken

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WAECO CD-40 AC VERA.JPGWAECO CD-40 AC VERA 2.JPGWAECO CD-40 AC VERA 8.JPGHi Chris & Marily. Can you post a sharper picture of the other side of the circuit board? Possable places for trouble are dry solder joints around the Relay or the 2 Regulator ICs 7810 & 7805 at the top of your picture. The regulator 7810 should have 12 or 24V on one leg center leg goes to ground & the other should have 10V DC on it.  With 7805 it should have 12/24Vdc on one leg, center leg ground, other leg should have 5V DC on it. Will put picture of a CF-40 board same as yours except it doesnt have the  relay fitted as its on the Mains to 24V powersuply board.



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D.L.Bishop


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Waeco Cooler Circuit Board?


We have a Waeco brand electric cooler model CF-40. It came with our 2007 Winnebago Vectra when we bought it about a year ago. I've had it on in the past, but this is our first extended road trip and now it doesn't work.
We're getting power both on the 120 volt & 12 volt circuits. The fuses both on the outside & inside of the box are good. We've got power to the power supply box and from the 26 volt power from the power supply box to the circuit board. Nonetheless, still no display on the control panel. No power light and no error light.
I assume the board is bad. I can't find a schematic for the board (no manf. name only a number of 005224 REV:C). I can't even find a place to buy the board.
We're hoping someone has had some experience with this problem or where to get help.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Chris & Marily
Winter Haven, Florida, USA


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Chris & Mairly

Where Ever HaRV Takes Us



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RE: Waeco Powersupply


Hi DeBe.

I found the easiest way of getting the PSU out was a combination of your method and lowering the compressor about an inch. I replaced the polyfuse and the fridge works OK on 240VAC so I didn't break anything! I'll try it in the car tomorrow.

Many thanks for your help with this.

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many thanks DeBe. I'll look at it in the morning.

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WAECO P-S PTC.JPGHeres a pict of the Polly fuse.



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D.L.Bishop


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Hi, You should be able to remove it without shifting the compressor. The only parts i moved was bend one bracket as shown, & moved the reciever drier (cylinderical copper object with a capilliary tube coming from it.) The polly fuse is a light brown square thin object by the relay.



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 28th of June 2012 07:36:36 PM

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D.L.Bishop


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I have a CF-50 which has the signs of a dodgy polyfuse and Waeco have confirmed from my serial number that it is one of those affected. Out of warranty of course and in any case there is no service agent where I live. I am/was an electronics engineer so I should have no problem fixing the PSU, particularly after DeBe kindly posted the circuit diagram. However, I know nothing about refrigeration and am a bit concerned about moving the compressor to a point where I can remove the PSU. There is obviously the possibility of damaging the possibly work hardened copper pipes that go up into the fridge. One of the photos above shows at least one of the rear mounting brackets bent back, presumably so the compressor can pulled out sideways rather than dropped down. Is this the way to proceed? Any help with pulling the thing apart would be appreciated.

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Hi Rippah, The part is V1 & its a MOV, 7D431K. The replacement is avalable from Jaycar RN-3406 for $1.75. Its a surge protector which in an over voltage situation can be destroyed & blow the mains fuse on the board.



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D.L.Bishop


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Blew up my fridge on 240V a little while ago. My fault, using a mate's crappy $2 gennie, that will learn me!
Anyway, can anyone identify the capacitor that was in the red circle? All of it's mates are 472M and I'm assuming it's the same, however, it does appear to be a little smaller in size in other images.
IMG_0515.jpg


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The first sign of trouble when my Waeco 240V circuit board died wa a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse but it went again.
So I'm running it on a transformer 240v-12v at the moment with a new circuit standing by to be installed.


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Thanks for the useful info, DeBe. Much appreciated.


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DANFOSS comp.1.JPGTo test a compressor & its module, remove wires from C & T  then bridge them with a jumper. The compressor should run, this test was done on 12V if using the in built powersupply it will be 24V. The 2 top thick wires are also the best place to check for run voltage.



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D.L.Bishop


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WAECO CD-40AC VERA SMPS.JPGHere is the circuit as an aid for anyone who is capable of repairing one. I should point out that the 24V DC side is isolated from the 240V AC side.



-- Edited by DeBe on Saturday 30th of April 2011 12:31:05 PM

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