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Post Info TOPIC: 6 Gang touch screen upgrade


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6 Gang touch screen upgrade


I would like to retrofit to this touchscreen. The principle behind it is simple enough - power in and then out to each device. But the problem lies in hooking up the existing 12V circuits. If they were on its own it would have been easy enough. Problem is that they are fred from the 240V power inverter. If I disconnect from that, all my 12V would then purely work from the batteries. Just not sure how to hook up and keep the converter in play as well.

TIA



-- Edited by rodsfromday on Monday 13th of November 2023 11:21:36 AM

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Rod, upgrading what from what, fitted to what?

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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan

Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.



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Possum3 wrote:

Rod, upgrading what from what, fitted to what?


 Maybe should have said retrofit instead of upgrade. Would like to turn all existing interior lights, awning lights, benchtop lights and radio on from the new toch pad switch panel.

And possible a 12v usb socket outlet.

 



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Rod, As Possum has stated you have not provided enough information.  A photo of what you currently have and a link to what you plan to install would be of considerable help.

 

A stab in the dark at something that you may be proposing.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/295940261606?

Tim



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TimTim wrote:

Rod, As Possum has stated you have not provided enough information.  A photo of what you currently have and a link to what you plan to install would be of considerable help.

 

A stab in the dark at something that you may be proposing.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/295940261606?

Tim


 Spot on to what i want to install. Currently have Centurion 3000 in



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I know nothing about such devices, but if the bright lights do not auto dim I would not like it .... too bright. Also, I suggest you install a switch to turn it off. Cheap Chinese LED displays have a reputation for not lasting long. My diesel heater display became unreadable after a year or so. So now I unplug it when not in use.

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Not a bad stab in the dark smile.

 

Ok the next question is whether you currently have a gang switch installed somewhere.  If not you would need to install your proposed gang switch close to the Centurion or route wires to another suitable location.

You can see the fuses for each individual 12v circuit so all you need to do is connect your new switch within each circuit.  When on 240V the Centurion converts it to 12V to each of those circuits and the power is not drawn from the batteries.  When free camping the power will then be drawn from the batteries.

That is how I recall my Centurion works but someone correct me if Im wrong.  It is in a camper an hour away from me but I know it has a pic of the wiring diagram with it.

Tim



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TimTim wrote:

Not a bad stab in the dark smile.

 

Ok the next question is whether you currently have a gang switch installed somewhere.  If not you would need to install your proposed gang switch close to the Centurion or route wires to another suitable location.

You can see the fuses for each individual 12v circuit so all you need to do is connect your new switch within each circuit.  When on 240V the Centurion converts it to 12V to each of those circuits and the power is not drawn from the batteries.  When free camping the power will then be drawn from the batteries.

That is how I recall my Centurion works but someone correct me if Im wrong.  It is in a camper an hour away from me but I know it has a pic of the wiring diagram with it.

Tim


 Yes will install under bench near Centurion. The problem i have is that this touch unit needs a 12V input. Not just sure where to get that source from? I have a switch on my 12V from batteries when 240V not available. 



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Not sure why you need a switch to change from 240V to 12V as I am pretty sure the Centurion is automatic switching so I believe you can source the power directly from the Centurion.

Tim



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 12:53:01 PM

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Not sure if you have the wiring diagram and manual for but if not they are included in this link thanks to another poster.  It may help you.

https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t66062416/need-help-with-a-3000-centurion-power-converter/

 

Good Luck

Tim



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TimTim wrote:

Not sure why you need a switch to change from 240V to 12V as I am pretty sure the Centurion is automatic switching so I believe you can source the power directly from the Centurion.

Tim



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 12:53:01 PM


 Yes for some reason someone wanted a switch to turn off the 12V when 240V plugged in. 



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TimTim wrote:

Not sure if you have the wiring diagram and manual for but if not they are included in this link thanks to another poster.  It may help you.

https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t66062416/need-help-with-a-3000-centurion-power-converter/

 

Good Luck

Tim


 This is doing my head in big time. I have the wiring diagram. haha, its become bigger than Ben Herr now!!! The idea is to use the panel both when on 240v mains power and while free camping. If i connect as it should be i can only achieve one of them.

I'll show you in a minute.



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The top pic is current setup.

Below is what it should be. If i could get the outputs to the circuits before the fuses on the centurion would be great.

It would then work off the centurion. My dilemma is how to get the 12V to work and still using the touchpad.

I dont know maybe i am just looking very wrong at it all



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What connections do you have on the led switch?  Is it a + and - for the 12v supply power to the led and then 12 connections for the switching?



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 02:49:03 PM

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Starting to think its not doable. Probably would work with a switch panel that has mechanical switches..
This would work good for adding on extra lighting or accessories on

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I still think it is doable but what connections do you have on your LED switch.



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TimTim wrote:

What connections do you have on the led switch?  Is it a + and - for the 12v supply power to the led and then 12 connections for the switching?



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 02:49:03 PM


 Yes positive and negative input and then only 6 single outputs for devices. Si when it switches it uses the 12v input to the circuit



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Here is what it looks like



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Ok looking at your photo of the Centurion is that yellow wire the 12v supply to the fuse panel. It looks to me that it is.



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Ok to me it looks like your yellow wire is the 12v positive to the fuse board.

I think you have to bypass the fuse board by making the the yellow cable the positive connection into your switch controller.  You then connect the negative of the switching panel to the chassis or to a negative connection.  The black cables from the fuse panel are your positives to the different appliances, which is a bit confusing lol.  As you have now bypassed the fuse panel you will need to install individual fuses between the ends of the black cables and the connections to your switching panel.  In other words the distribution board and fuse panel becomes redundant.

Unless of course you can wire from the new switching controller connections to the back of the fuse panel so as to keep the fuse holders.

Thats the way that I see it.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

 



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 03:55:22 PM



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 06:23:31 PM

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TimTim wrote:

Ok to me it looks like your yellow wire is the 12v positive to the fuse board.

I think you have to bypass the fuse board by making the the yellow cable the positive connection into your switch controller.  You then connect the negative of the switching panel to the chassis or to a negative connection.  The black cables from the fuse panel are your positives to the different appliances, which is a bit confusing lol.  As you have now bypassed the fuse panel you will need to install individual fuses between the ends of the black cables and the connections to your switching panel.  In other words the distribution board and fuse panel becomes redundant.

Unless of course you can wire from the new switching controller connections to the back of the fuse panel so as to keep the fuse holders.

Thats the way that I see it.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

 



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 03:55:22 PM



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 03:56:54 PM


 Yes, the yellow is the 12V input from the converter. Yes, I have done quite a few diagrams and also thought of the fuse bypass. I actually removed that circuit board and the yellow cable attaches to the underside of all the fuses, they all linked together. Very confusing!!!

 

I will keep looking at it.

Thank you for all your input.



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Haha what about this?



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rodsfromday wrote:
TimTim wrote:

Ok to me it looks like your yellow wire is the 12v positive to the fuse board.

I think you have to bypass the fuse board by making the the yellow cable the positive connection into your switch controller.  You then connect the negative of the switching panel to the chassis or to a negative connection.  The black cables from the fuse panel are your positives to the different appliances, which is a bit confusing lol.  As you have now bypassed the fuse panel you will need to install individual fuses between the ends of the black cables and the connections to your switching panel.  In other words the distribution board and fuse panel becomes redundant.

Unless of course you can wire from the new switching controller connections to the back of the fuse panel so as to keep the fuse holders.

Thats the way that I see it.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

 



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 03:55:22 PM



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 03:56:54 PM


 Yes, the yellow is the 12V input from the converter. Yes, I have done quite a few diagrams and also thought of the fuse bypass. I actually removed that circuit board and the yellow cable attaches to the underside of all the fuses, they all linked together. Very confusing!!!

 

I will keep looking at it.

Thank you for all your input.


 Rod, yes the yellow has to supply power to all the fuses and then on the other side of the fuse they become seperate circuits to each appliance.  That is normal.

Now lets take a step back as the way I have suggested will provide power to your 12V system when on 240V or on 12V.  The Centurion 3000 is an automatic switch over and you do not need to isolate the battery when on 240V.   It will actually provide some charge to your battery.  It is in effect a trickle charger.

You can test it by connecting to 240V leaving the battery connected and turning on some lights etc.  Then simply disconnect the 240V and the lights will remain on because the 12V takes over.

Tim



-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 13th of November 2023 06:46:48 PM

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Tim, i think i understand now what you saying. So that 12v yellow that goes to the fuses has to be in parallel with the 12V coming from the battery for that scenario to then work. Makes a bit more sense now.
Thanks.

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