Chainsaw sharpening

Mike Harding · Guru

Chainsaw sharpening

Whenarewethere · Guru

Is the time worth more than a new chain.

Mike Harding · Guru

Whenarewethere wrote:
Is the time worth more than a new chain.

I am retired :)

DeBe · Guru

When sharpening chains if you favour one side cutters more than the other when filing, it will cause the saw to cut in a curve & jam. Measure the cutter link with a vernier to make sure they are equal length, then adjust acordingly. Found this out when a Stihl agent & went to a chain sharpening course years ago.

Whenarewethere · Guru

Mike Harding wrote:
Whenarewethere wrote:
Is the time worth more than a new chain.
I am retired :)

Then you don't have the time!

Izabarack · Guru

I use a stone in a Dremal. At the highest speed on the machine, a couple of touches is all it takes to get the edge back. I touch up my chains very often, just a little, to ensure it is sharp. Butchers and Chefs are always steeling their knives and I try to follow that example. Chains go for a professional touch up when cuts start to move a little off dead straight.

-- Edited by Izabarack on Thursday 29th of July 2021 02:24:17 PM

-- Edited by Izabarack on Thursday 29th of July 2021 03:16:37 PM

STRETCH ARMSTRONG · Senior Member

On the farm l used a file in a rather complex jig with set angles etc. I got sick of sharpening chains and brought an 240volt chain sharpener at bunnings. I think it was an ozito. Best thing l ever used to sharpen my chains. They don't weigh much l would consider carrying one if l had a generator.

Possum3 · Guru

Mike, It pays to take chainsaws back to Stihl agents for servicing every so often and also get chains sharpened on their equipment - touch up chains after every use with file - if you really wish to do them yourself it would pay to get a small sharpener such as www.bunnings.com.au/search/products%20chainsaw%20sharpener&sort=BoostOrder&page=1

I have instructed in chainsaw use for many years (SES) and personally have five in differing sizes (all Stihl), I also carry several spare chains for each - so I change chains when dull to finish job rather than using a dull chain.

Bobdown · Guru

Hi Mike,

I too have multiple chains and replace dull ones and sharpen later.

The 2 in 1 sharpener is so easy to use, even I can do it. A good vise is recommended.

Watch the video, the angle of the holder sets the course and also does the depth gauge as well, 2 or 3 licks with the file and you are good to go.

Just remember to mark the first one with a texta.

Cheers Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7X2bZYlTvw

dabbler · Guru

I purchased a jig for my dremel and it definitely takes most of the wayward arm action that differs from left to right but as it's still a handheld process it can just speed up a poor effort. BIL is a professional now cs and axe jockey. He does one side completely then swaps to the other side even when touching up in the field with a file. He tells me it's a 45 yr habit originally used to give a consistent angle.

yobarr · Guru

Izabarack wrote:
I use a stone in a Dremal. At the highest speed on the machine, a couple of touches is all it takes to get the edge back. I touch up my chains very often, just a little, to ensure it is sharp. Butchers and Chefs are always steeling their knives and I try to follow that example. Chains go for a professional touch up when cuts start to move a little off dead straight.

"I touch up my chains very often,just a little" That's certainly the way to do it.The more dull you allow the chain to become before you sharpen it,the harder it is to bring it back to being sharp.Cheers

P.S Stihl 880.This saw takes up to 59" chain,I've been advised.That'd take some sharpening!

-- Edited by yobarr on Thursday 29th of July 2021 04:49:44 PM

johnno48 · Veteran Member

Do you turn your blade over ? May make a difference

Eaglemax · Guru

Hi Mike, a little off topic but when I began to build my own home last year I decided to buy one of those 9 piece Ryobi battery powered tool sets and among them was a reciprocating saw. I use the hammer drill unit for the stabiliser legs so now use the one battery for both. It means leaving the chainsaw at home and no 2 stroke fuel.

Just thought I'd mention it in case you havent considered the idea.

Tony

gdayjr · Senior Member

It pays to have the chain sharpened every now and then by a dealer.

It's not just a bout the chain itself, they often need to "dress" the bar as well.It basically makes sure the guide that the chain runs in is nice and square.

I have been doing mine for 20 yrs. I now use a little diamond type of round file attachment that simply goes in my battery operated drill.

Corndoggy · Senior Member

I bought a cheapish 240v chain sharpener and used that. Does look a bit flimsy but it did a good job of sharpening my chains.

Craig1 · Guru

Next door neighbour has a "noxious dragon "and takes his to a professional maybe every 5th time through.

landy · Guru

If your a purist and know how to use it a file in a guide is the best tool for the job. Having said that I find them to be a pain in the bum and gave them away years ago in favor of a 12 volt rotary stone unit, I see Bunnings are selling a rechargeable unit now for about $50.00 that looks alright as well, they normally have a guide plate on top to give you your angle and control your depth.
As already said don't let your saw get to blunt before touching it up it should only take a light touch or two with the stone to bring it back to sharp. If you do let it get really blunt be care full not to overheat the edge by grinding to heavily. don't forget to file back your raker's ( the pins between the teeth ) every few sharpens, if you forget this even a sharp saw will stop cutting well, a couple of passes with a flat file will do. Never cut into the ground, try not to cut dirty wood.
Landy

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Try to lift into c section . Some make the mistake of pushing into bar or down on chain . Often two swipes with file is enough . Your only sharpening the edge . Be careful of the angle also . Dont go too sharp ! To a point Its the edge your really sharpening .

Gary and Barb · Senior Member

Agree and good points! I tried a number of sharpeners, including an electric set up with a jig, filing by eye and Dremels, etc. Powered jigs ertainly sharpened the blade, but SOOO aggressively that I was going through chains like....

Not much good in the field, either, unless there was a 3 point plug in a tree! The Stihl-style manual sharpeners are excellent to sharpen and touch up, but having a spare sharpened chain or two is a lot quicker to change than trying to sharpen on the fly.

Bicyclecamper · Guru

I use a 12 volt stihl version, it uses aligator clips, when I am out in the bush, also use the stihl jig at home, the jig is easy to use, once you do it once or twice, but as you have lopsided filed it now, it will have to go into a service centre, to get it reset.

Hairyone · Veteran Member

www.youtube.com/watch
Plenty of good videos around....better off persisting and learning.....you'll make the same mistakes with an electric sharpener as you would by hand, only quicker and more damage to your chain....keep going....youll get it.

Hairyone · Veteran Member

Also....sharpen your chain as soon as it starts to get blunt, dont keep cutting until its buggered....should only take a couple wipes with the file to keep and edge on it then, and throw away files when theyre not cutting....blunt files make it hard work.....Husqvarna make a good file guide too, Ill see if I can find a picture....Cheers

Hairyone · Veteran Member

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSPWk0W269xBgpCqblA_De

these are great....have gauge for depth guides as well....good luck...cheers

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Ive seen people sharpening with elect sharpeners . They seem to think grinding halve the chain away is better !! As Ex lineworker we maintained our OWN chainsaws . A lot of the time cutting 50 year old hardwood Iron bark !! Just a quick file before chain is totally blunt is way better . Much the same as a butcher ! They continually keep their knife sharp ! Much the same with chain saw !! Keeps heat from softening the blades !! Using quality chain oil helps !!

RichardK · Senior Member

I also bought a 240v electric sharpener off the net, quite cheap, and as far as I was concerned saved lots of time and effort, does the chains in my 14" and 16" saws very quickly.

If you have a genny or a reasonable inverter they will handle it no problem, around 350 watts I think, its too wet at the moment to have a look.

Cheers
Richard

-- Edited by RichardK on Friday 30th of July 2021 10:43:07 AM

dieseltojo · Senior Member

This is not a criticism...

I have never had a problem in 40 years. I do not use a jig just the correct sized file. Just tighten the chain and count the strokes to do the first tooth. Repeat for all teeth.

I mean the angle is obvious to the naked eye.

Just realise where the leading edge is, then do the same from the other side.

I have always found that simple touch ups after a fair bit of use is better than waiting for the thing to get hot and blunt.

Do not neglect the height flat or you will wonder why its not cutting. If you do not know what the height flat is or depth bit.....Please do go out and buy a new chain. smile

So many folks I have helped had no oil in the tank to lube the chain. Some take the chain of and install it back to front... smile

-- Edited by dieseltojo on Friday 30th of July 2021 11:39:13 AM

Stretch60 · Senior Member

Have to say the ozito sharpener from bunnings is perfectly OK for giving chains a quick sharpen. I do ten at a time and usually carry no less than 4 spare when I go bush. I'm cutting WA dry jarrah and usually get a full ute load out of one chain. I use a sthil 660 with 25inch and 36in bars. The 880 is an awesome machine but it's like trying to hang onto a runaway motorcycle. And a wee heavy for us older chaps.

Mike Harding · Guru

dieseltojo wrote:
I have never had a problem in 40 years. I do not use a jig just the correct sized file.

I suspect it's rather like drill bit sharpening, a knack, and one either has it or doesn't - I can't sharpen drills either :)

Many thanks all for your most interesting comments.

I'm still open to suggestions but I think I'll preserve a while longer with hand sharpening after seeing a new, to me, technique on a Youtube video and if things don't improve I'll buy the Izito sharpening jig from Bunnings.

Moose2 · Senior Member

Mike - could also be teeth on one side slightly longer than the other. Check with a set of calipers. If so sharpen the long side again to get them back to same length. Mine always go pear shaped after a few hand sharpenings...then I get onto the electric grinder to get them back to how they should be.

Check these out too...ensures teeth stay same length each side..Fast Filer. Seem to work OK.

thumbnail 2 - Genuine Fast Filer 5/32" Chainsaw Chain sharpening Kit Suits 3/8 LP Saw Chain