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Post Info TOPIC: Compact Anderson 175amp to 50amp adapter


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Compact Anderson 175amp to 50amp adapter


I made up a 175amp to 50amp adapter to be as compact as possible & nice & solid. Measured to the mm!

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Whenarewethere wrote:

I made up a 175amp to 50amp adapter to be as compact as possible & nice & solid. Measured to the mm!

 


Which mm? smile

On a slightly more seriously note; care to share details about the actual connection of the contacts? Are they simply soldered or have you inserted something into them and crimped?

 



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I have a swaging tool for the 175 lug but prefer to solder. The 50 amp plug was already wired so I repurposed it. The 6 AWG wire from the 50 amp was folded to three thicknesses & soldered into the 175 lug heated with two 120 watt soldering irons in a block of wood for insulation, also preheated the wire as well with another soldering iron. The rubber boot just touches the end of the lug & then I heat shrinked them.

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_MG_2511.jpg



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why
cheers
blaze

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The 50 amp plug I had next to the battery but upgraded it to a 175 amp plug for jumper leads so I turned the 50 amp plug into an adapter for smaller items.

_MG_2504.jpg

 



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ok, seems reasonable, I figured you was trying to go the other way, that's what ya get if ya figure and don't ask
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blaze

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Whenarewethere, thanks for sharing that. I was curious about the connection although I'd already taken a different approach; I simply fitted both size sockets. Your additional information should help others looking for a similar solution. In general I'm no fan of using solder for a physical connection but in this example the extra solidity provided by it should be beneficial.

You mention that the 175A plug is for jump starting, in which case I hope you've opted for crimping that one. I don't know anything about your car but for a large engine that's taking some effort to get started I can imagine a 175A plug getting warm enough to soften the solder.



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I thought about having 175 & 50 but decided to have the one. Although I also have a Victron socket on there under the battery cover as well.

The jumper leads are old welding old. Over the decades jump started a car about once a year. Over 6 weeks in outback NSW a few years ago we saw 3 cars that needed jump starting in the morning & they weren't old cars, a Skoda, Suburu & Toyota. In each case someone else was was already helping & each owner didn't have their own jumper leads.

At home in one situation a neighbour needed help but their car was in an impossible place so I joined my 2 sets of welding cables end to end. He said he thought the second battery was in his car it started so quickly!

I also use the Utilux 200 amp clamps which are 2mm solid copper, one half of the clamp's minimum cross sectional area is 56mm2 with bridging strap 112mm2 minimum in the clamp.

2 cases I have lent cables to others because their leads were smoking, too much plastic & not enough copper! They would have started a fire as they didn't see a problem! It's a worry.

According to my clamp meter my 2.0L petrol engine uses 238amps to start.

Another neighbour, I think I saved his life as their car had a flat battery. He knocked on my door asking if I happened to have jumper leads as the NRMA were about an hour away. His wife's baby was on its way!



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It's good hear someone else has enough sense to use welding cables. I noticed long ago that's what the RACV and similar all use so promptly made my own set. When my kids got their first cars I gave each one a good set of cables. They still have them and guard the preciously.

 Isn't it astonishing how many people don't carry jumper cables, even out in the bush? We came across a young couple at Kings Canyon, trying to get back to Uluru, where they worked. Failed alternator, no jumper cables and no membership in any of the roadside assist organisations. WHile we sat there using our car the charge their battery I gave them a bit of a talking to. I figured I had a captive audience and they were in no position to complain.

Way back in my bike riding days there was a bloke, a friend of someone else in the group, with a car that joined us for one "run". In the morning the car was reluctant to start and the battery went too flat with the effort. Needless to say, there wasn't a pair of jumper cables in sight. While the others scratched their heads I collected the various chains we used to lock our bikes up and with them we managed to jury rig connections between the car battery and several of the bikes. There were enough of us to keep some tension on the chains to improve contact between the links. It was kind of laughable but we did get the car started.

For our new car, a ute, I'm fitting the extra pair of batteries under the tray, rather than take up precious space elsewhere. Unlike the Pajeros we've owned before this, there's no way to fit even one small secondary battery under the bonnet. Because this makes it very difficult to bridge batteries if the need should arise I've opted for a new dual battery controller. This one has an input terminal which, when switched from inside the cab, engages the internal relays and connects the batteries together. I'd still need to be careful though to avoid a meltdown in the controller, so would use the method to restore charge, rather than trying to use it to carry cranking current.



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Likewise, good to see someone else who has more cents than wasting dollars & stress being in a bind!

 

I have always replaced the car battery every 4 years. Trying to screw another couple of years out of a starter battery is not worth the stress in the outback or city for that matter, or for the few dollars of amortization. When I bought the car new the battery was already a year old.

High ambient heat we have & with most starter batteries directly in the engine bay, it will shorten a battery's life. I'm fortunate that the battery is separated but nevertheless I have added insulation around the battery box.

I have four 26ah gel batteries in the car, no space for 1 large battery, but the combined maximum amps is 1040 or 375 amps for 5 minutes. 

Also have a 175 plug there as well so it is easy to plug the welding leads between the systems for my own jump starting.

 

Off on a tangent, a 4WD had old tyres, & these were big, mine are only 65 litres volume, they got a puncture from a stone in semi outback, the spare was flat, 12 years old & cracked. No repair equipment. Someone else tried to pump up the tyre but their cheap compressor which they had never used didn't work, even this 3rd party appreciated the whole repair lesson. If you have an old tyre practice plugging it if you have never done it. 3 plugs sealed the hole, I said be very careful giving them a good talking to, said go & buy a minimum of 5 new tyres straight away, plus quality repair equipment, & I'm pretty sure they were going to.

I could see the stress they initially had under the pending circumstances! Sadly it has to take these situations for people to wake up! A bit of planning for battery & tyres & most problems are recoverable.

Insulation around battery box & as best as possible underneath:

normal_IMG_3741.jpg

normal_Freelander-battery-cover.png



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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

50L fuel custom rack Custom 6x20W solar Victron 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated frig TPMS 3 ARB compressors custom heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 2x1kg ABE.

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