I have 6x20 watts of panels (2 in series x 3 sets) & use 6AWG throughout. My 120 watt soldering iron can just manage to solder a lug, but I have the lug sitting up on end in a hole drilled in a block of wood. Which keeps the lug still & provides insulation. Soldering iron sitting in the end of the lug & half fill with solder. Then heatshrink everything.
I haven't tried but I feel I would not be able to desolder the lug.
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I have a swaging tool to do up to 175 amp plugs, but prefer to solder but can only do up to 50 amp plugs. A lot of the pre made cables I have seen have non original Anderson plugs. If you do them yourself at least it is done right! Also run the heatshrink fully over the back half of the lug so it is fully insulated from the rear & it supports the cable so the wire cannot bend as much out the back of the lug. I also heatshrink with double wall thickness over both wires to give extra support. The 175 amp plug is getting a bit challenging.
This 50amp plug has 8AWG wire but it is the same heatshrink process as my 6AWG plugs & the second photo is a 175 amp plug.
Very nice job with the heatshrink. I find that's one of the disadvantages of the Anderson plugs, they let dust and moisture in the unsealed rear. Another quick and easy solution for sealing the rear and supporting the wires is a rubber boot from Jaycar - $4. I put them on all my Anderson plugs. The end cap helps to protect the contacts when there's nothing plugged in too.
-- Edited by Mamil on Saturday 2nd of February 2019 04:43:50 PM
Agree, the Anderson plugs are vulnerable. I have put this heavy duty cover on for the one in the engine bay. But it is a bit overkill where one needs some simple electrical cover.
