Need to have the van pretty level when overnighting, been using cut squares of ply wood and wooden blocks to run up on. The ramps I wonder how effective they are, we have just left a place where the sites were loose coarse sand. from what I can see of the ramps, they are hollow from underneath. Wouldn't they just sink into the sand ?
Also with the Jayco independent suspension, you would have to use a long ramp at the back, and a ramp that has the add on piece between the wheels. How well does the parking braked wheel work on the ramped up wheel ?, I had the van jump forward and hit the tow bar of the ute on a sloping site. I will now be reviewing the wheel chocks as well as they just dug in the sand.
Just wondering about others and their experiences.
I have same ramps as Rockylizard's, with the locking chock. They're lighter than wood blocks and very tough, also easy to use as you can keep reversing up the different levels 'till your spirit level says 'stop'. I don't rely on the brake too much and always use good chocks all round, never had the van move. Soft sand will always require a bit more reinforcement of course.
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Cheers,
Tony
"Opinion is the medium between ignorance and knowledge" - Plato
I have air bags on my motorhome . Car carrying trailer . Mainly so I can lower trailer so ramp angle is reduced . I have found bags help in leveling . Cant beat hydro leveling system tho !!
iana wrote:Also with the Jayco independent suspension, you would have to use a long ramp at the back, and a ramp that has the add on piece between the wheels.
Vans with independent suspension (ie not load sharing) it is best to have the same lift under both wheels. Read through this guide - How To Level Your Caravan. It has a set of blocks where each block is in two pieces, you use the lower part in between the wheels and whan you get some lift you can add the higher bit.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
We have and use red plastic ones from Repco with wheel chocks. They do get a work out surprisingly, mostly one at a time to adjust the caravan, light in weight and been using them now for 6 years. We leave them buggy strapped to the A frame basket handy and ready to use as its the first thing you need after the spirit level when you park. Good value.
We do carry a couple of short lenghts of pine garden sleeper at bottom of my front boot for the extreme times to get caravan level.
HINT. Just remember to drive forward a short distance when you have selected where you need the caravan and reverse straight to take the tension of the tyres before dropping the caravan and that will limit the amount of movement of the caravan from the towball when you raise it. Hope that makes some sense.
G'day Ian,
I use the red ramps similar to rockylizard & Radar + a reasonably solid rubber wheel chock. The ramps came from Freddy's here in Townsville, the chock from Supercheap.
There were two types when I bought the red ones - those for single axle & those for dual axles. I recall they are rated at 4T. The van does not move & the handbrake is fully operational as well.
I carry some wooden blocks in case more height is required somewhere.
If I only require a small lift, I use a block I had for the camper - it is just a steady rise, not stepped like the others but not as high.
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Warren
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If you don't get it done today, there's always tomorrow!
We have and use red plastic ones from Repco with wheel chocks. They do get a work out surprisingly, mostly one at a time to adjust the caravan, light in weight and been using them now for 6 years. We leave them buggy strapped to the A frame basket handy and ready to use as its the first thing you need after the spirit level when you park. Good value.
We do carry a couple of short lenghts of pine garden sleeper at bottom of my front boot for the extreme times to get caravan level.
HINT. Just remember to drive forward a short distance when you have selected where you need the caravan and reverse straight to take the tension of the tyres before dropping the caravan and that will limit the amount of movement of the caravan from the towball when you raise it. Hope that makes some sense.
A great hint that I learnt the hard way. Had lots of worries when the van lurched forward & sometimes to one side before I learnt this lesson.
I use long plastic ramps & chocks and I carry a couple of bits of bright yellow painted marine ply for a soft soil base. I can use them for under the jack too if ever needed. Less likely to leave the stand out yellow bits behind, though I did leave a set of yellow wheel chocks behind at a Mt.Isa CP! So there you go, nothing is fool proof.
I dumped my fancy set of DIY interlocking NZ Oregon (Douglas Fir?) ramps when the plastic ones came on the market.
I can put one under each of the dual wheels if required but often one wheel is enough.
My spirit level is fixed to the A frame & calibrated to the floor in front of the fridge.
I never ever trust the van's hand brake.
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 1st of October 2018 07:42:08 PM
Thanks all, since been doing a bit of drive through camping at parks, or free camping and leaving the ute hooked up, just driving up on some plywood squares, and pine blocks seem to work well. Interestingly, the van seems to stand very steady when left hooked up to the ute, no stays or jockey wheel down.
Hi Just replaced our Sterling for a Silverline 21,6 managers special , had airbags self leveling just push the button , push again and it lowers van , push again for travel,
raises up to 60mm ,so easy , no ramps great idea , but around $ 3500.