How essential is a 12 volt air compressor for a grey nomad? I have a Land Cruiser which has a 12V plug in the back which presumably would take a 12V air compressor for putting air into my LC tyres as well as my caravan tyres.
If deemed essential (or highly recommended), please recommend a brand/model, and any other bits needed, eg a hose long enough to reach all of the above-mentioned tyres.
They are not essential normally but if you reduce tyre pressures for sand, rough roads, etc & you are in an isolated area, you will need to increase the pressures again once on firmer road.
The one I carry was bought after we did the Cape in 1996 when the "el Cheapo" I had blew a valve! It definitely wasn't as good as the previous "el Cheapo" one I had for about 5 years & gave a hiding to. I paid $180 for the current one then & it still goes well & is in the original box n my "stuff". Brand? Not certain but recall it is an American one.
Any of the bigger names (ARB, TJM, etc) are ok - may be expensive & power hungry, but anything beats walking!
Your library might have a Choice or 4WD magazine where a comparison might have been made (or Google one - Overlander, 4X4 Australia, etc).
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Warren
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If you don't get it done today, there's always tomorrow!
How essential is a 12 volt air compressor for a grey nomad? I have a Land Cruiser which has a 12V plug in the back which presumably would take a 12V air compressor for putting air into my LC tyres as well as my caravan tyres.
If deemed essential (or highly recommended), please recommend a brand/model, and any other bits needed, eg a hose long enough to reach all of the above-mentioned tyres.
Thanks for any advice.
Cheers
Rex
Gday...
I would suggest that a 12v air compressor would only be as essential as a spare wheel/tyre.
We all carry a spare and rarely these days do we need to use it.
Similarly, a 12v compressor is very much like that.
Certainly, if one is upping and reducing pressures due to road surfaces (dirt/gravel/sand/bitumen) then it would be hard to pump up the pressures after reducing them out on the road/highway.
If one gets a slow puncture, then the 12v Compressor is good value. Rather than change to the spare - pump the tyre back up to (or over) the required pressure, and drive on - praps stopping to check every now and then - until reaching a town where the puncture can be fixed permanently.
OH and get one with a good (big) capacity to pump up a 4x4 tyre from flat to 40PSI fairly quickly and without overheating the pump.
Jest sayin'
Cheers - John
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I carry a reliable TJM compressor. It cost me around $270 . It's been used a few times over the last couple of years. Always on somebody elses vehicle or van. It's always a good feeling to help someone.
Cheers Pete
I've carried a compressor for years in my 4WD spares box but never used it. I'll continue to carry it because I'll only need it once and it will have repaid me. Almost certainly a cigar lighter socket will not provide sufficient power to drive a compressor you'll need to connect it directly to a battery.
Spend *at least* $100 preferably $150 on a compressor - cheap compressors are rubbish and frequently fail after a few minutes of running.
If you have a lot of pumping to do run the compressor for, say, five minutes then allow it to cool for five, repeat.
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Hi Rex, I bought a small Ryobi portable air compressor from Bunnings to inflate both the car and van tyres I also used it to adjust the pressure in the rear air bags on my previous vehicle. Very handy as I could drop the pressure when parked up for a few days in order to improve the ride in the car then I could quickly reinflate them prior to leaving. The compressor comes from the one+ range of Ryobi tools which all use the same 18V lithium battery. It cost me $99 (still that price) and if you already have another tool from that range you wont need to buy a battery or charger otherwise you will have to add them onto that price. It's light and only about the size of a car battery, it comes with all the different types of fittings that allow you to inflate things like air beds, bike tyres or even footballs. There is a digital readout which gives the current pressure which you then set to what you want and it will cut out a little above that set point. Like all tools in this price range it does the job especially if not using it everyday but its probably not the same level of quality that you would get if you wanted to spend a bit more money. It's working pretty hard when the pressure gets up towards the 50PSI but it eventually gets there.
As above for the air compressor. However, the $50 jobbie will suffice for the caravan tyres, but when it comes to the tug tyres, they have twice the volume to pump up and will take forever. They will get there - eventually. If you intend to lower tyre pressures to go through sand etc and then re-inflate, you need a much larger compressor.
Most of the compressors will go to 150 psi or thereabouts. You don't need that much pressure - you need volume. The $50 ones don't have much in the way of volume delivery, and it you want to pump up the tyres on a landbruiser, you will need a larger unit or lots of time. The larger units typically have alligator clips to power up directly from the car battery. The cigarette lighter sockets are typically limited to 10 amps and the bigger compressors draw lots more than that.
I have had an ARB compressor for about 10 years and it has given good service. It cost about $270, I think, and will pump up to about 200 psi and has a high volume. It comes in its own plastic carry box with fuse and 2 alligator clips to connect to the battery terminals (I fitted an on/off switch rather than the compressor starting and stopping by connecting and disconecting the clips) and enough hose to reach all car and caravan tyres. The compressor does run hot and therefore needs to be cooled down prior packing away, but has enough capacity to pump up a 16" 4wd tyre. I have even used it to pump up 16" 4wd tyres after fitting them to the rims, which included sealing the beads. The disadvantages are the lifting of the bonnet to connect to the battery, running the engine to prevent a flat battery and the heat generated, but that is normal for these types of compressors.
Regards EJP
I purchased the Bushranger Max Air III and use it regularly just to keep tug and van tyres at the correct pressure. Our van is quite long (22ft) and the thought of winding into and out of service stations to check pressures was a turnoff. It seems like a goor product and has a 5 year warranty.
First, a big apology for the long delay in responding to these wonderful replies. I should have replied sooner.
I am always amazed at the depth, breadth and wisdom of the responses I receive whenever I put a question onto the Grey Nomad forum. I learn so much from the replies, and feel confident when I make a decision based on what has been shared.
I notice a lot of these 'heavy duty' air compressors use clips. i.e. clip onto the engine battery terminals for power. I have one.
The campervan we have on order, as I understand it, has a rather awkward engine battery to access. (Fiat Ducato)
OK for jump starting, as it has a ground lug and access to +ve battery terminal.
But not easy access to both engine battery terminals. And the house battery is under the cabin floor accessed via a panel. A bit fiddly.
So it might make sense for me to ditch my heavy duty compressor for one that can be plugged into the 12v cabin socket.
Now the dumb question.
I suspect these compressors utilise the battery terminals rather than a 12v socket for a reason. Power draw or something?
A good compressor will use a bit of power even if only generally for a short time.
If you are serious about carrying and using a compressor then I would suggest you have an Andersen Plug fitted for easy access.
I might suggest the rear of the vehicle is generally not a bad spot.
The cig lighter plug will not be heavy enough for prolonged use and may cause you other electrical problems depending on current draw.
If you are going off road or using sand tracks you will need a good air compressor.
If you are staying on the bitumen then a regular check of tyre pressures will probably be sufficient,
A compressor can be useful for a lot of other things including using the compressed air for cleaning dust etc,
You can also use a compressor for priming a diesel fuel system should you need to change fuel filters on the road.
If you are towing a car or a trailer with a car on it, then a compressor might come in handy as well. You will have a few extra tyres on the road to contend with.
If relying on a compressor for regular tasks then you might want to consider an air tank with a pressure relief valve to have a regular supply for extended use.
If you are a driver that will repair and inflate your own tyres on the road then a tank will be very handy particularly if the tyres are on the larger size.
I am sure others will have good uses for compressors but a heavy duty method of connection to your battery will ensure trouble free operation and while I think of it I find when using my compressor I always have the engine running,
Good luck with your new vehicle.
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I notice a lot of these 'heavy duty' air compressors use clips. i.e. clip onto the engine battery terminals for power. I have one.
The campervan we have on order, as I understand it, has a rather awkward engine battery to access. (Fiat Ducato)
OK for jump starting, as it has a ground lug and access to +ve battery terminal.
But not easy access to both engine battery terminals. And the house battery is under the cabin floor accessed via a panel. A bit fiddly.
So it might make sense for me to ditch my heavy duty compressor for one that can be plugged into the 12v cabin socket.
Now the dumb question.
I suspect these compressors utilise the battery terminals rather than a 12v socket for a reason. Power draw or something?
A good compressor will use a bit of power even if only generally for a short time.
If you are serious about carrying and using a compressor then I would suggest you have an Andersen Plug fitted for easy access.
I might suggest the rear of the vehicle is generally not a bad spot.
The cig lighter plug will not be heavy enough for prolonged use and may cause you other electrical problems depending on current draw.
If you are going off road or using sand tracks you will need a good air compressor.
If you are staying on the bitumen then a regular check of tyre pressures will probably be sufficient,
A compressor can be useful for a lot of other things including using the compressed air for cleaning dust etc,
You can also use a compressor for priming a diesel fuel system should you need to change fuel filters on the road.
If you are towing a car or a trailer with a car on it, then a compressor might come in handy as well. You will have a few extra tyres on the road to contend with.
If relying on a compressor for regular tasks then you might want to consider an air tank with a pressure relief valve to have a regular supply for extended use.
If you are a driver that will repair and inflate your own tyres on the road then a tank will be very handy particularly if the tyres are on the larger size.
I am sure others will have good uses for compressors but a heavy duty method of connection to your battery will ensure trouble free operation and while I think of it I find when using my compressor I always have the engine running,
Bunnings sell a twin cylinder 12v ozito job. $65. I just bought one to replace the one stolen a few weeks ago. Fitted an anderson plug to it. I also have a 4-5 meter lead with anderson plugs which allows me to easily do the van tyres. (usually used for solar panel) Bit slow perhaps but if only used occassionally who cares.
Recommended I guess, very convenient being able to pump van or ute tyres in camp. Handy for sand too, as mentioned previously.
-- Edited by oldbloke on Wednesday 6th of July 2022 10:53:02 PM
I have upgraded it a bit since. But basically 3 compressors in parallel with additional heat sinks & fan cooling, 4 litre air tank, refrigerated after cooler, moisture trap, 135psi, 4.5cfm at 90psi, about 90 amps via 175 amp Anderson plug in engine bay.
65 litre volume of tyre 20 to 35psi 28 seconds each. Option of pressure water cleaning at 0.5 litres per minute.
Find out what duty cycle the compressor is, you will cook them if they run too long, they get seriously hot.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Wednesday 6th of July 2022 11:29:37 PM
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50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
Bushranger, which is about 12yrs or more old, still works great with "not" a lot of use really.
They are very handy but again as others have said it really depends on how much off/dirt road travelling you do.
Worth the investment/insurance all the same
Ian
I've always used mine to check my car & caravan tyre pressures before leaving home. It's a lot more convenient than dragging it all up to a servo.
So true, there is not a person around that would enjoy doing tyre pressures at a servo.
How many servos is there that you cant get to the tyre hose or you have to move to do 4 tyres because of the way it has been set up.
So much easier to do them at home or from anywhere for that matter at a time that suits you.
Don't ever have that problem now Clarky as I have an ARB compressor on board, behind the passenger's seat, with a pressure tank under the tray to build up enough pressure to seal beads etc. Not wanting to be stuck in the back of beyond with low tyre pressures after 'airing down' for rough roads etc I also have an El Cheapo Bunnings pump tucked away in one of the toolboxes in case the ARB gets sick. Cheers
Another good reason to carry a compressor: many punctures nowadays are slow punctures due to the tyre having picked up a nail or similar and it's often possible to simply pump the tyre up (maybe a few times) until you can get to a tyre repair shop thus saving the unpleasant task of roadside wheel changing.
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"I beseech you in the bowels of Christ think it possible you may be mistaken"
Oliver Cromwell, 3rd August 1650 - in a letter to the General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland
Another good reason to carry a compressor: many punctures nowadays are slow punctures due to the tyre having picked up a nail or similar and it's often possible to simply pump the tyre up (maybe a few times) until you can get to a tyre repair shop thus saving the unpleasant task of roadside wheel changing.
Additionally, with TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system) you will have the pressure so you will know whether the leak will be ok untill the next town or if you need to stop ASAP to avoid destroying a tyre.
Also a tyre repair kit. It gives you more options.
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50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
Some servo forecourts with air have their compressors regulated to a lower pressure than some folk run. On a Landcruiser that wont be an issue, on our bus it was so we had a fitted compressor.
Unless either of those scenarios apply than you probably don't need a compressor, although Mike Harding's comment may give a reason to have one. If that is the only reason then a mid priced one may suit, but if regular/critical use is envisaged then buy the best you can afford. Buying a cheapie is not generally a good idea.
Yep, get an Anderson plug setup if possible, plus an extension air lead maybe lighter than copper wire extension.
A rough guide, for every connector & every metre of air hose subtract 1% of the compressor's capacity.
Air compressors have undersized copper wire. Cut the cable off put an Anderson plug close to the compressor. Make up a heavy duty Anderson extension lead & when not using it for the compressor, use it on portable solar panel.
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50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
I have had an ARB unit in my patrol for years. Has come in handy many a time. Have a read of this, plus there are other comparisons around if you search
What should be shown for all compressors is SCFM (Standard Cubic Feet Minute).
CFM is a meaningless statement as it is at 0 psi. As is simply stating the compressor can do 150psi, as this is at 0 litres per minute.
What one needs to know is how many CFM or litres per minute AT 90 psi AT 21°C a the compressor is capable of.
ARB do show a chart which I haven't seen from any other company. Often most companies do not show duty cycle. The ones that do are optimistic with their duty cycle. It's the reason I have added cooling fans. Having multiple compressors you will be running them for a shorter period of time. They will get over 100°C so be very careful. Why you need a length of metal or rubber hose for the first metre, not just the cheap plastic hose.
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.