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Post Info TOPIC: HOW HARD IS IT TO FIT WDH WHILE ON THE ROAD?


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HOW HARD IS IT TO FIT WDH WHILE ON THE ROAD?


Hi We have already set off on our 12month big lap and have, of course, now decided to add a weight distribution hitch!!! What needs to be altered to ad this to our vehicle and van and do we need to take the caravan in with us before buying so it suits the vehicle and van?

Kim



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Not hard to fit, but most suppliers including caravan dealers and larger tow bar centres will fit one for you and show you the correct method to couple/uncouple. You need the van hitched up to car for fitting. BTW, what symptoms are leading you to a WDH? 



-- Edited by SouthernComfort on Friday 12th of May 2017 05:37:19 PM

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Shouldn't NEED any symptoms Tony.
If he has.

FIX them BEFORE worrying about the WDH.

Unless just a 6x4 or not much more.
"I" Believe ALL trailers (MY boat incl,.)
track and are controlled better with one on.
Whether the light single round bar jobs,
or the full on 750kg H\R.

But balance everything B4 you fit.
It then transfers some weight from rear of car to steering wheels.
and does help to stabilise the sideways swing (if any) too.

Basically ALL rigs are better with them, regardless of what some say here.
Properly installed on balanced rig. Of course.


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Fitting of a simple WDH involves replacing the towbar tongue in your receiver with one (usually much heavier) that includes the fittings for the WDH bars. Fittings for bars are bolted onto drawbar. Some adjustments at each end are needed, the instructions explain how to do this. No cuttting or drilling usually needed. However, ensure that your rig is compatible with the unit you buy, and ensure you have access to a large torque wrench as some of the bolts may need to be torqued to a relatively high figure. (I had to stand on mine). I fitted mine myself, with a good result, and I'm no mechanic...
Cheers

C00P


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Read the manufacturers information on you towing system. I would suggest that you comply with manufacturers hitch system, particularly if your vehicle is still under warranty. Pay attention to vehicle heights and what heights are recommended by the manufacturer. Always attach or stick the manufacturer's compliance plate to the vehicle. If you have altered the suspension of your vehicle in any way, then you really should go through the Engineering approval process to have the vehicle reassessed for the towing limits allowed for the changes.
I guess I am a stickler for using the car manufacturer's WDH system as they are the ones that were made the vehicle!
It is also a bit like getting what you paid for, peanuts will always get you monkeys!



-- Edited by Lancelot Link on Friday 12th of May 2017 09:27:47 PM

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Aftermarket fitting of the smaller or intermediate sized WDH's is simply a matter of removing the tow ball (not the tongue) and putting a device that holds the sprung bars, underneath the ball, between the ball and the tongue.
You will need a large spanner to undo the ball nut.

The other end of the sprung bars hook up either directly or using short linking chains to another device that is clamped to your van's drawbar.
The clamp is usually just one simple bolt.

The total job is less than 5 minutes to fit the hardware.

Whilst hitching up your van add another minute or two for slotting the sprung bars into the tow ball device and lifting the other end to the drawbar devices.

The more you lift up the sprung bars on the draw bar end, the more bars transfer a lifting/straightening force to the rear of the tow vehicle.

WDH are rated based on how much weight is to be removed from the towball in kilograms (kg).
There are some very heavy duty WDH devices that are often sold at the insistence of an over-zealous salesman, but rarely do most folks need more than approx. 100kg taken off the ball weight. The heavy duty units replace your tow ball's hitch.

Haymen Reese are probably one of the most reputable brands for towing components.
http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/weight-distribution-systems

These are a popular choice for many folks to fit themselves for removal of up to 135kg from the towball. $300 from Supercheap Auto or from most caravan sales outlets.

359017-zoom.jpg

 

 



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Whichever ones you get\buy.

Look around and find a 15ish inch length of 3\4 to 1in medium wall Tubing.
(I used Stainless from Yacht railing offcuts. But a piece of normal mild will do.
Just maybe paint it for aesthetics.

When you put your selected chain link on Swivel\lift up latch.
Slip the tubing over outer end.
Makes the Over centre move a LOT easier.

Just make sure you have a good grip.
It hurts if you let go. (Don't ask.... etc)


PS
Those dual bars are a nuisance.
I got a heave duty single hole head.
Had the bar holes made one size up in bench drill.
Went to steel yard and bought a length of spring steel round bar to suit.

had the bend put in by a blacksmith (fabricator?).
with spring clip holes in outer ends for safety clips.
Did a lovely job for yrs.

DON'T go too light. Won't do job. Better with heavier tapered bars,
and more links\less tension.

It's a trial and error thing.
Till YOU get what tensions
eactions in rig YOU want.
then remember link count on chains.

My 6.5 mtr Off roader. was always one side had one less link tension than other.
I put it down to gutter angles.

If it too, or very hard to tension over top.
Back off one link and try again

have fun..



-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 13th of May 2017 01:03:59 AM

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The best advice given was " Why do you suddenly think you need a WDH?"

Do not confuse a WDH with any anti-sway device. WDH's DO NOT prevent swaying in any form.

Contrary to the advice by some here, WDH's are not for everyone, there are certain vehicle brands that specify that a WDH is NOT to be used with their vehicles.

They also cannot be used with any European vans which have very light ball weight loads and usually a built in anti-sway hitch.

If the rear of your vehicle is dropping too much it may be better to look at the suspension first before fitting the WDH.



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Landfall wrote:

The best advice given was " Why do you suddenly think you need a WDH?"

Do not confuse a WDH with any anti-sway device. WDH's DO NOT prevent swaying in any form.

Contrary to the advice by some here, WDH's are not for everyone, there are certain vehicle brands that specify that a WDH is NOT to be used with their vehicles.

They also cannot be used with any European vans which have very light ball weight loads and usually a built in anti-sway hitch.

If the rear of your vehicle is dropping too much it may be better to look at the suspension first before fitting the WDH.


Exactly the reasons I thought it worth exploring the motive for a WDH!



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Tony

"Opinion is the medium between ignorance and knowledge" - Plato  

 The moral: Focus on the Facts

 



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ALRIGHT.

Addendum.

"Australian built caravans" OK.

And I said ALL ^^^^ caravans are better with them.
Not mentioning the tug.

Most of us use 4wd's or Utes. Which of them
are posted as unsuitable for WDH??.

Any recommended not suitable for a WDH.
Would Probably be a little light on,
in in the rear construction of. For the stresses I'd think?.

Those Korean AWD things?. Assembled over a floor pan.
NOT a chassis
No structural strength for such.

 

I will reiterate though.

Balance everything up first. BEFORE fitting anything.



-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 13th of May 2017 10:40:51 AM

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macka17 wrote:

ALRIGHT.

Addendum.

"Australian built caravans" OK.

And I said ALL ^^^^ caravans are better with them.
Not mentioning the tug.

Most of us use 4wd's or Utes. Which of them
are posted as unsuitable for WDH??.

Any recommended not suitable for a WDH.
Would Probably be a little light on,
in in the rear construction of. For the stresses I'd think?.

Those Korean AWD things?. Assembled over a floor pan.
NOT a chassis
No structural strength for such.

 

I will reiterate though.

Balance everything up first. BEFORE fitting anything.



-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 13th of May 2017 10:40:51 AM


I think we get the point, but may I also reiterate:

Establishing their motive for a WDH as a starting point surely makes sense so we can provide some relevant / more complete advice. None of us knows how experienced gandk are, they may be very experienced - so let's explore the facts.

Few will contradict the benefits of a WDH for AU vans, BUT if these guys don't have a locally built van, AND/OR as pointed out already, they are trying to cure swaying by fitting a WDH then more advice may be helpful to them. 



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"Opinion is the medium between ignorance and knowledge" - Plato  

 The moral: Focus on the Facts

 



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macka17 wrote:

Whichever ones you get\buy.

Look around and find a 15ish inch length of 3\4 to 1in medium wall Tubing.
(I used Stainless from Yacht railing offcuts. But a piece of normal mild will do.
Just maybe paint it for aesthetics.

When you put your selected chain link on Swivel\lift up latch.
Slip the tubing over outer end.
Makes the Over centre move a LOT easier.

Just make sure you have a good grip.
It hurts if you let go. (Don't ask.... etc) ~~~SNIP


 Gday...

Macka's suggestion has merit but is not the right way to do it.

This site is a the full instruction for how to fit and adjust a WDH -

http://southcoasttrailers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/WDH_Installation_Instructions.pdf

As stated on that site, one should take the weight of the tug/towball/van with the jockey wheel so that it both safer and easier to hitch and unhitch the bars.

WDH 01.JPG

Worthwhile reading it the whole instruction article - even for us 'seasoned' travellers.

Cheers - John



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macka17 wrote:

Whichever ones you get\buy.

Look around and find a 15ish inch length of 3\4 to 1in medium wall Tubing.
(I used Stainless from Yacht railing offcuts. But a piece of normal mild will do.
Just maybe paint it for aesthetics.


 These come as part of the kit.



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Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 



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macka17 wrote:

ALRIGHT.

Addendum.

"Australian built caravans" OK.

And I said ALL ^^^^ caravans are better with them.
Not mentioning the tug.

Most of us use 4wd's or Utes. Which of them
are posted as unsuitable for WDH??.

Any recommended not suitable for a WDH.
Would Probably be a little light on,
in in the rear construction of. For the stresses I'd think?.

Those Korean AWD things?. Assembled over a floor pan.
NOT a chassis
No structural strength for such.

 

I will reiterate though.

Balance everything up first. BEFORE fitting anything.

From memory (which could be faultybiggrin)  I think some Fords were also included in the no WDH to be fitted category.  As you have correctly pointed out it is to do with the structural strength of the vehicle as the weight transfer places a lot of load of the rear of the vehicle.



-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 13th of May 2017 10:40:51 AM


 Since you asked try Landrover, not sure when they were made in Korea? Also any of the upmarket 4wd's that have self levelling suspension.

 



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Ok.
I'm out of touch with the baby\soft modern toys suspensions.
Too used to patrols and Utes.

Don't know what that link said.
But the easiest way to couple un\couple any "stress point" linkage.

Is fit Jockey wheel\jack.
Crank it up a bit AFTER coupling.
set chains. then lower down.

Just reverse to undo.

We've posted all this. many times over the yrs.

The FEW that can't for any reason, take a WDH.
Well. owners should check on such things b4 buying. as part of the process.

ANY trailer over 2 ton. Is safer with one fitted.Regardless of what some here say.

EVERYTHING. That improves your handling\control of your rig.
Is a bonus, and should be checked on.

WDH's are MORE than proven over the yrs.

I would think self levelling would have a problem trying to balance the veh front to back
with large van hanging off it. and the upsy, downsy of drawbar.
without WDH fitted.on anything but bitumin.
The compressor would be awful busy.

I thort that stuff was designed to level the vehicle not fight the outside effects?.

I also know that a quite a few Self levellers have problems with vans and big boats on the back.
Just talking at boat ramp for a start. and 4wd mag' forums.

Roger next door paid $87k for his Disco.
Towed the big Tri down the ramp. But got his brother to tow it back home behind the truck.

Self levellers are for the veh basically.




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macka17 wrote:

Ok.
I'm out of touch with the baby\soft modern toys suspensions.
Too used to patrols and Utes.

~~~SNIP~~~

I also know that a quite a few Self levellers have problems with vans and big boats on the back.
Just talking at boat ramp for a start. and 4wd mag' forums.

Roger next door paid $87k for his Disco.
Towed the big Tri down the ramp. But got his brother to tow it back home behind the truck.

Self levellers are for the veh basically.


Gday...

no

Have a gander at this Macka

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gyc4Dmgbew

........ and notice no WDH used - or required.

Cheers - John



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rockylizard wrote:

Gday...

no

Have a gander at this Macka

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gyc4Dmgbew

........ and notice no WDH used - or required.

Cheers - John


 

I thought we already decided that the OP was about WDH not anti-sway.

The reason a LR cant take a WDH is because whilst they may be able to pull 3.5ton, they only have a 150kg towball limit. This paltry ball weight is mostly only suitable for European vans and camper trailers and hardly requires a WDH.



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Unfortunately Rocky.
They showing the Sway system.
Not the self levelling susp.

It is known . so they say.
as fine for veh. No much good with decent trailers on less than bitumin surfaces.
IE uneven\bumpy.

Don't get me wrong. I loooove Landies. even the Disco.

I was brought up on them. And towing 20odd ft vans (in UK)
But not for heavy towing. with this modern suspension.



-- Edited by macka17 on Sunday 14th of May 2017 12:29:11 AM

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Hylife wrote:
The reason a LR cant take a WDH is because whilst they may be able to pull 3.5ton, they only have a 150kg towball limit. This paltry ball weight is mostly only suitable for European vans and camper trailers and hardly requires a WDH.

Gday

May I suggest that before you provide information, do some research to see if your opinion matches the facts.

The Land Rover Discovery 3 and 4 have a tow capacity of 3,500Kg and a ball weight of 350Kg.

Disco Tow Ball.JPG

http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/editorial/advice/2015/tow-test-land-rover-discovery-4-2015-48534/

I provided the video NOT to introduce 'sway control' but to demonstrate to Macka that the Discovery3/4 is a very capable tow vehicle given his comments to the contrary.

Cheers - John 



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macka17 wrote:

Unfortunately Rocky.
They showing the Sway system.
Not the self levelling susp.

It is known . so they say.
as fine for veh. No much good with decent trailers on less than bitumin surfaces.
IE uneven\bumpy.

Don't get me wrong. I loooove Landies. even the Disco.

I was brought up on them. And towing 20odd ft vans (in UK)
But not for heavy towing. with this modern suspension. 


 Gday...

GEEZ  Macka, does your medication affect your eyes and brain THAT much cry  no

The Defender on that tandem has a TARE of at least 1,900Kg + weight of tandem - must be about 2,200Kg+ at least.

Look (listen?) past the commentary on 'sway control' and look at how the vehicle copes with 'heavy towing'.

I was being playful with my statement that it also does it without a WDH - which of course it doesn't.

Sometimes for a bloke that has so much experience and knowledge you really do make some outlandish, opinionated statements. no One of the shortcomings of forums is that many inexperienced people reading comments/advice made by those with acknowledged knowledge and experience think their statements are statements of FACT hence outlandish statements apart from being misleading, border on poor advice.

I was not attempting to demonstrate anything to do with sway and or self-levelling simply to provide some evidence to show that your comment "I also know that a quite a few Self levellers have problems with vans and big boats on the back......." is not representative of the Discovery's actual capabilities.

Disco Towing.JPG

Just one of dozens of reviews of the Discovery's abilities -

http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/editorial/advice/2015/tow-test-land-rover-discovery-4-2015-48534/

If you like, I will dig out and post reviews on a whole range of other makes and models of vehicles that are also excellent tow vehicles - and, yep, it will include your beloved Patrol. I am NOT shoving the Discovery down anyone's throat I am just trying to get some damned balance (and fact) into the commentary on what is a "good tow vehicle".

Cheers - John 

 



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Hi John
Its landrovers own bloody fault for poor sales etc, Most people still think landrovers are series 1 still I reckon with there broken axle syndrome. I have had landrovers for a number of years. I think a lot comes down to the type of people that buy certain vehicles, Even the most die hard landy owner can see merit and benefits in other vehicle makes, but if you own a Nissan or Toyota then every other make is no good.
cheers
blaze

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HMMMM!!!!! I am not sure if I am game to re-enter the ring. We have just recently been to the Cairns Caravan show and had a good talk to a fellow who, daily, was giving talks on towing safety. We explained that our 16.6' off road Goldstream RV pop top tends to, not sway, but slightly roll. The top of the van going from side to side. We have taken both shockies off and taken them to two so called experts and both said they were fine, but the gentleman at the Cairns show said he thinks that is the problem as our tow ball weight is only 190kg and we have weighed it and it is right on. We have been over weigh bridges and not a problem there. So we are going to try again with having the shockies replaced as he didn't think we should need a WDH.

Kim



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A maan can't win can he.

Disco's do make a good tow vehicle. But not 3.5ton. SAFELY...
PS I love my little D-Max too. UP TO 2 ton.

WDH's do improve handling on larger rigs, More so than smaller. But lighter ones help smaller too.
I had them on my 17ft3 1.4ton. Definitely safer

Computer controlled Suspensions. according to users of such on their forums
Do give problems towing.

90% of vehicles used for towing in this country ARE Overrated with tow maximums
by the MFG's.

IF. After reading all the demo's and facts given by the many Professional\experienced
people that have given those details.
People tow to those limits.

They WILL have problems when things go wrong.
Caravan sales don't help either. Bigger van they sell bigger profit they make.

Too many people don't take note of advise and information
given by others with MUCH MORE experiences than I have\had.

I can talk here ALL day.
Some that have gone to and way over max weights\sizes direction
working on edge of weight limits.
Do try to compensate such with attacking others.

"I'd love a post on who has what with weighbridge weights of both posted here".
I'll bet there are quite a few wouldn't front up.

For safety alone. NO vehicle should be less than 3 or 400ish kg's Heavier than tow.
As ALL Pro's DO tell you. (WITH the larger rigs, as most seem to be buying nowadays.)
I have around 750\800kg difference on mine.
On that note.
I'm off to start another subject for the honest people...

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Hi Kim (gandk)  ..

It's my experience that you won't get an unbiased sound technical response to your question on this place. We ALL have our built in prejudices and perhaps some varying degrees of real relevant knowledge.

Discussions on this subject usually degenerate into off topic personal attacks.

For my part, after reading a real expert like Collyn Rivers, I decided in favour of HR WDH for my rather front heavy Jayco Westport.  I had it fitted by a caravan specialist workshop & it has served me well for >20 years.

IMHO you should read Collyn Rivers books before making up your mind & then if you decide to go that way have an expert shop fit your WDH.  If you want to save on the cost of his books (& I wouldn't) try your local library for a loan copy.



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Thank you all for your input. We actually took the shock absorbers into the suspension place today and they are the 3rd ones that have said they are ok. So that counts them out. So I shall take a look at the Collyn Rivers book. May as well.
Thanks all
Kim

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Gday...

This will get you to the range of books available, and updated articles -

http://caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/

Cheers - John



-- Edited by rockylizard on Monday 15th of May 2017 07:13:24 PM

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rockylizard wrote:
Hylife wrote:
The reason a LR cant take a WDH is because whilst they may be able to pull 3.5ton, they only have a 150kg towball limit. This paltry ball weight is mostly only suitable for European vans and camper trailers and hardly requires a WDH.

Gday

May I suggest that before you provide information, do some research to see if your opinion matches the facts.

The Land Rover Discovery 3 and 4 have a tow capacity of 3,500Kg and a ball weight of 350Kg.

Disco Tow Ball.JPG

http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/editorial/advice/2015/tow-test-land-rover-discovery-4-2015-48534/

I provided the video NOT to introduce 'sway control' but to demonstrate to Macka that the Discovery3/4 is a very capable tow vehicle given his comments to the contrary.

Cheers - John 


I am not knocking the disco, but regardless of what vendors say in Australia this may be simply in order to compete with sales. Every European country limits the Discos to 150kg maximum ball weight.
It seems the vids that are always trotted out of a Disco happily towing a van without any additional anti sway device or LDH are always lightweight European vans.

There are no special OEM mods to the disco suspension or chassis for the Oz market. If you chucked a 300kg ball weight van onto a disco in Europe you'd be put off the road as unsafe.  



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Gday...

Had some info .. but no point ... deleted.

Not worth any more Off Topic 01.jpg sh!t. no

Cheers - John



-- Edited by rockylizard on Tuesday 16th of May 2017 02:14:57 PM

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