We are needing to get a gas cert. and safety cert. to sell our 2007 Jayco Sterling that we had purchased in Qld in Dec 2012. When we purchased it, it already had a 12v/240v HWS in the front boot along with the gas bottle attached to all the gear eg;regulator etc. Wondering where I can find out when the rule came in about not having anything electrical in the same area as the gas connections. We were very green and thought it was all legal then. Just not sure when the rules changed.
Rather than wade through all the gas reg's, if it was me I'd just book it in for a Gas cert. and see if anything comes of it. You might be worrying over nothing.
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Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
The regulations don't say anything about not being allowed in the boot area.As long as the unit is installed to manufactures specs and directly wired I cannot see you having any problems.The areas I would be looking at would be ventilation,switching,pressure testing and fire proofing etc.regards Adrian.
I was told by an "expert" that My 240volt electrics would have to run through an r.c.d (earth leakage detector) switch but for that to work, I would have to drive an earth pin three feet into the ground and connect it to the vehicle every time I plugged in the power, or am I wrong?............Rick
It is actually in the Jayco yard as we speak trying to get the gas cert. They are the same ones who sold it to us with the HWS next to gas bottle and are now saying it has to be moved to get a gas cert. They are saying the regulations have "probably" changed since then (Dec 2012) which they may have. That's why I am trying to find out when the regs changed other wise I feel they should pay for the upgrade as it shouldn't have been sold like it in the first place. I did go and see the rego dept and found the person totally unhelpful. Surprise surprise.
At bottom of page 3 of the gas guide says 1,5 meters from ignition source, so should be ok to relocate bottle to far side of the boot.Otherwise move to draw bar.
I would be having words with the dealer. These requirements hardly ever change. Perhaps go else where.
If it was installed to regulations at the time and has not been altered in any way regulations are not grand fathered.It is a moot point by dealer. regards Adrian.
Ignition source to me would be a naked flame,electrical switching etc .The question that needs to be asked is the hws electrical connections sealed or insulated !
If it is a sealed unit I would suggest the dealer is talking BS.He is not the authorised person who does the inspection.I have been personally involved in the gas industry as an inspector,trainer and licensed gafitter for nearly 40 years.The fact that it is a sealed unit means that it is separate from the boot.A sealed unit is not considered a source of ignition in any installation domestic commercial or industrial.In queensland the dept of minerals and energy are the state inspectors. regards Adrian.
All auto gas installations in most states require the gas cylinder and fittings around it to be sealed from other parts of the car or vehicle and vented to the outside atmosphere. This is usually a hole in the floor of the gas installation with a short length of pipe to the outside. This is because LPG if it leaks, is heavier and will dissipate through the hole. LPG cannot build up. My campervan is set up like this.
This is the same for cars with a LPG tank in the boot. They are sealed from the boot or internal parts of the car and vented externally. SO LEAKS ESCAPE.
In a van or campervan piping then goes to the stove or fridge. It is still a good idea to vent these areas.
However if you are talking about have car or van wiring or any electrical fittings (ignition sources) inside a sealed LPG unit or box, for LPG that is a big "NO NO" as any LPG leaks can find a spark, it will explode causing massive damage. LPG cylinders, hot water services "must be" separate and on their own vented to the outside atmosphere.
One 9kg LPG cylinder has more than enough gas to blow a house to pieces and has done so before. So for a van nothing would be left. LPG gas leaking under a depression with a house on top found a ignition source in Victoria, lifted the timber house up one meter and then dropped it. Such is the power of LPG mixed with oxygen.
And for Rick re the RCD question.
For a RCD to work properly you have to have an earth. Yes you are correct. They trip out at 30mA. Enough to give you a "boot" but not kill you.
If you do not have an earth it will not work as it has to see equal currents flowing in the active and neutral wires at all times or if it passes through you to earth it senses that its not equal and turns off.
However caravan parks and the like have earth leakage by law and will trip off. The same setup as your house.
However if you have a small generator plugged into your van 240v inlet socket its a different matter as small generators have what is called a "floating voltage" that is there is no earth. So you have to grab hold of the active and neutral wires at the same time to get a shock. So installing a earth leakage in this instance is a waste of money.
Former Safework SA Inspector and Dangerous Goods Inspector and still an electronics hobbyist. Retirement is great !!
Where does it state in the gasfitting regulations that it cannot be installed there.A sealed unit is not regarded as a source of ignition. Regards Adrian.
However if you have a small generator plugged into your van 240v inlet socket its a different matter as small generators have what is called a "floating voltage" that is there is no earth. So you have to grab hold of the active and neutral wires at the same time to get a shock. So installing a earth leakage in this instance is a waste of money.
In this case (and in the case of an inverter) you need an RVD (Residual Voltage Devise).