To Me. Brush is best. half the money not spent on Aeresol and thinners.
Preferably in hot weather so it runs and soaks in better.
I usually use the stuff they sell in Supercheap etc for under wheel arches and chassis.
I've always done it.
Normally clean off suspension/axle units and spray them with rust proof/galv paint too.
Black plastic sheet. OLD shirt Long sleeved, high collar, and rubber gloves.
It drips everywhere.
Just remember it drips so work Away from job. not under it.
or you'll be trimming your hair.
I can not help re weather proofing existing vans however on my van I have light galvanised sheeting laid firstly on top of the chassis and the floor laid on top of that effectively sealing underside of floor to the elements.
I used some swimming pool membrane paint then four coats of acrylic house paint . Mainly due to being left over from other jobs ., some critical areas I used some thin alloy sheet .. Was a little concerned about wood breathing if or when water got in there ? All good though . I Gould the membrane penetrated the wood giving way better protection . From memory it was called Base cote off eBay ..
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 15th of October 2016 04:33:44 PM
Galv sheeting under the ply was tried by Roadstar in the beginning with the Off/Semi offroaders.
but they stopped. as the timber was rotting when water got between the two.
I know. I had a Compass in '90's that did that.
Only 5 yrs old too. but did a lot of creek crossings etc.
Most important. No matter what you use.
Is to get penetration with first coat.
Only advice I can offer is - If the underside is galvanised sheeting DO NOT paint it.
Painting anything galvanised unless done to a proper specification can deteriorate the coating and limit its effect to deal with atmospheric conditions.
My Regal has galvanised frame and sheet under the floor all I do is hose it down and it's still all solid after 12 years with no signs of deterioration
Only advice I can offer is - If the underside is galvanised sheeting DO NOT paint it.
Painting anything galvanised unless done to a proper specification can deteriorate the coating and limit its effect to deal with atmospheric conditions.
My Regal has galvanised frame and sheet under the floor all I do is hose it down and it's still all solid after 12 years with no signs of deterioration
Cheers Vince
Thanks for that info Vince, it was something that I was unaware of
If you painting Galv.
wipe with acetone first to remove any coatings.
Then spray with cold Galv.
If any deterioration started. grind that back to metal first.
or you just kick starting second explosion of rust
under fresh coatings.
Although the protection the galv has under vans.
the average 8 to 10 yrs doesn't really apply.
It's when water gets under paint . Or any coating Much the same with alloy too . Our farm equipment. We would just spray with used engine oil with a little diesel added to soak in . From farm trucks, harrows, tractors .Even wood on farm sheds . Using pasture spray equipment ..
If you painting Galv. wipe with acetone first to remove any coatings. Then spray with cold Galv. If any deterioration started. grind that back to metal first. or you just kick starting second explosion of rust under fresh coatings.
Although the protection the galv has under vans. the average 8 to 10 yrs doesn't really apply.
I don't know the history of our van I've only had it 14 months.
Worked in the sheet metal trade for 36 years and learnt a bit about galvanising.
As I stated in my OP use a proper spec to paint gal or it will be a futile effort.
The cold Gal paint you are using is ok as long as you use an etch primer first. Good to see you use a spray on method.
You should also apply a top coat which in gal specs is a two pac application as the etch primer and cold galv paints are porous.
In days of old when paint contained lead, if you painted galvanised anything with it that was the start of the end for the coating.
The lead reacts with the tin and causes the galvanised coating to erode and what happens is water ingresses between the two surfaces
and then oxidation starts. Oh and if using coal tar epoxy use an etch primer first.
My thoughts would be that if the floor is going to have issues at all with moisture it would be where the floor panels sit on the frame where moisture can get trapped.
Very difficult to prevent unless you sealed around the frame against the floor or removed the floor and completely painted the panels for replacement (which you wouldn't)!
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