First & foremost I want to state that we take our van to a very reputable repair place. Secondly only replies from those who know what they are talking about or have had the same problem The 2 wheels are on the right side of the van, front one always OK and this was this morning after only about 4ks travel. Bruce has fiddled with the brake controller at various times & situations. We have had it back 3 times, at their cost, but keep telling us that there is not a problem. I do not know a lot but that is hot! When the van was new the backing plate had been welded on crooked & it was repaired under warranty back in 2008. Bearings etc etc had been done by our man last year. Have had this problem since replacing axles on trip last year at Wentworth.
Kay & Bruce. Live for each other because you never know when it will be your last day together. On the road . http://bkmcl.wordpress.com
Hi Oma Check to make shore the brake adjustment is not to tight , the brakes could be dragging ,and also check to make shore the wheel bearings are not to tight, jack the van up yourself and spin the wheel ,the wheel should spin freely ,if not you have one of the two problems,someone else may have another idea.
I would start by having a look at the wheel bearings. Hard too tell from the photo if the "Surraysia" wheels are showing discolouration from excess heat, often a good indicator.
Replaced axels a year ago?
I repack bearing at about 10,000klm or 18 mts .
If Your repair man can't find the problem in 3 attempts I would suggest He is not trying or not up to the job (my tuppence worth).
Bearings are fine, have done the wheel spin. Am trying to talk HWKB to go somewhere else but giving them another go on 13th & Bruce is to stand & watch what they do.
Have you tried running it with the Brake Controller "off" to try and eliminate one thing at a time. Back the brake shoes off on that wheel. Take it for a run on a road where it is safe to test it.
Is that 112 deg C on one picture it's not very clear. Where are you taking the Temp from. Brake Drum, Bearing Housing, Rim, or Tyre.
They are electric brakes I assume. Checked that the magnet it not binding on the drum. It might be OK when static but starts not letting go when on the road braking normally.
I will be interested to hear what the problem tuns out to be.
112 C yes at the drum. Done the controller off thing. Electric yes. Will certainly post again to al the forums after the 13th. Thanks to all & I have shown all replies to Bruce.
The only time I have had the wheels serviced by someone else I had a brake drum seize on me. Noticed the smell of hot brake lining (I thought it was the Clutch) I was able to do a temporary job on it till I got home the next day.
I could see straight away the problem. They had put new Magnets in, but not the off road ones I had asked for. Whoever had done the Job had put the magnets onto Worn out actuator Levers. one had very quickly chopped out the magnet centre mounting. The magnet was loose and able to jam onto the drum
The arm on the left is a New one (oposite hand). The one on the right should have been removed when servicing the brakes and bearings.
Good question, Bearing are to hot at 177deg C or 350 deg F that's when the special purpose greace fails designed by timken.
Timken say bearing should not exceed 300 deg F or 150 Deg F for precission bearings.
Don't seem to be much info on it, but double the ambient temp for the bearings seems to be the sweet spot.
Of course the braked bearings will run hotter, by maybe 50% or more.
Yes, I've had this problem. (I think there's a thread somewhere, probably on this forum) While bearings can cause excessive heat, in my case it was the brakes ... the back axle brakes showed over 100 degrees while the front axle brakes showed mid 30s. The dealer concerned kept adjusting the brakes, not believing me when I said the problem was not adjustment. The back brakes were doing all the work, the front brakes none. There is only one wire from the controller to the brakes, so forget about the controller itself ... it's not the problem. In fact I changed my controller and the problem continued. Then I started to lean on the dealer. Both the dealer and I corresponded with ALKO who made the system in the first place. The dealer even soldered all the connections around the axles without success. They supposedly checked the resistance in the magnets and the wires but this I can't confirm. Finally someone found a solution, maybe it was the dealer, maybe it was ALKO, but in any case they refused to tell me what the problem had been. And since the van was under warranty, I had not alternative but to accept the result. I'm thinking though that someone somewhere didn't want to admit there had been a stuff up. Was it ALKO with the manufacture of the components, or Jayco with the assembly. We'll probably never know. But I'd be prepared to bet there are vans being towed around with similar problems and the owners are blissfully ignorant because they've never noticed the temperature variation.
I wish you well, Kevin
P.S. Now all the brakes show temperatures within a degree or two of each other, and never above 40.
-- Edited by KevinC on Sunday 15th of March 2015 01:32:32 PM
Hi Kay, On the wheel/brake assy that is getting HOT try- 1. Loosening the Backing Plate bolt/Nuts, possibly have to first remove the Brake Drum to Loosen, 2. Refit Brake Drum with bearings adjusted properly, 3. Adjust Brake Shoe Adjuster so as to LOCK Brake Shoes in the Drum, 4. Tighten Backing Plate Bolt/Nuts firmly, 5. Loosen Brake Shoe Adjuster 6. Remove Brake Drum again to Properly Tighten all Backing Plate Bolts, 7. Refit Brake Drum, adjust Bearings correctly and fit split pin,bearing Cap, 8. Re-adjust Brake Adjuster to LOCK the Drum and then BACK-OFF approx 8-10 Clicks of the Adjuster wheel the Drum should Rotate Freely at this setting. The REASON being for this Procedure is that sometimes the Backing Plates are not fitted Concentrically with the Brake Drum/Shoe assemblies and even though adjusted correctly the Brake Shoes can contact the Brake Drum Incorrectly causing a Grabbing or Dragging Effect when driven on the road. I have personally had to do this to the two rhs brake assy's on my Brand New recently fitted upgraded axle/brake/wheels and solved the problem forever. Cheers Kev.
Hi Kay, On the wheel/brake assy that is getting HOT try- 1. Loosening the Backing Plate bolt/Nuts, possibly have to first remove the Brake Drum to Loosen, 2. Refit Brake Drum with bearings adjusted properly, 3. Adjust Brake Shoe Adjuster so as to LOCK Brake Shoes in the Drum, 4. Tighten Backing Plate Bolt/Nuts firmly, 5. Loosen Brake Shoe Adjuster 6. Remove Brake Drum again to Properly Tighten all Backing Plate Bolts, 7. Refit Brake Drum, adjust Bearings correctly and fit split pin,bearing Cap, 8. Re-adjust Brake Adjuster to LOCK the Drum and then BACK-OFF approx 8-10 Clicks of the Adjuster wheel the Drum should Rotate Freely at this setting. The REASON being for this Procedure is that sometimes the Backing Plates are not fitted Concentrically with the Brake Drum/Shoe assemblies and even though adjusted correctly the Brake Shoes can contact the Brake Drum Incorrectly causing a Grabbing or Dragging Effect when driven on the road. I have personally had to do this to the two rhs brake assy's on my Brand New recently fitted upgraded axle/brake/wheels and solved the problem forever. Cheers Kev.
I'm about to fit a parallel bearing axle to my van. (Upgrade from slimline). I'll carry out that procedure before fitting.
Thanks for the info Kev.
I can currently hold my hand on the drum if the brakes haven't been used.