If possible have a close look at the ignition spark. Make sure it's discharging in the gas stream.
From your description it appears the burner surrounds are filling with gas and eventually spilling onto the spark
which when ignites has quite a pool to whooof through...
The vibration of driving can dislodge the probes sometimes.
I think Cloak has come up with one good answer another could be that there is some other things disturbing the mixture of gas and primary air and it is having trouble lighting.
If you can get a blast of compressed air up the burner tube or conversely unravel the end of a piece of thin rope and twist it up the burner tube it may dislodge the obstruction (Spider web, fluff or dirt and dust).. then see if that fixes it..
oldbob knows about these things better than I,,, BUT this has happened to us when we turned the gas on after running the cylinder dry.
It took a while for gas to get to the ho****er system and it mustn't have coincided with the ignition cycle.
If we run the gas out (not common as the smell gets me awake enough to change cylinders) I start the stove first to get the gas into the line,, no problems with HWS ignition then.
__________________
Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
I know sod all about gas and a bit more about ho****er systems. We have ours on gas all the time and I have never heard it woof on start up. The ideas above sound like sense to me and it will be something I check when the anode gets a peek.
Cheers guys. Hope you are all well.
__________________
P B Crockart EX RAAF Electrician,
Aircraft Avionics tech. Senior high school teacher.
I think Cloak has come up with one good answer another could be that there is some other things disturbing the mixture of gas and primary air and it is having trouble lighting.
If you can get a blast of compressed air up the burner tube or conversely unravel the end of a piece of thin rope and twist it up the burner tube it may dislodge the obstruction (Spider web, fluff or dirt and dust).. then see if that fixes it..
HI
Ditto
Regular Gas explosion such as that are not something to ignore !!!
They can & do occur but are a warning that all is not right.
it could be:
[a] that the spark may not in the gas stream,
Requiring a build up of gas in the furnace tube before gas reaches the Spark [spark electrode dislodged due to vibration?]
the ignitor module may be faulity
[c]Another cause could be an obstruction to the gas flow diverting it away from the ignition spark
You could try lighting it then turning the gas OFF @ the bottle or the line stop valve
When it has burnt the gas out see if you can observe the ignition while it is trying to light
Does it have a nice strong blue arc JUMPING across the ELECTRODE tip/s ??
Once it does ,light does it have a full sized flame?
Re lighting after a bottle replacement can mean a delay in actual lighting for the FIRST time after replacing the bottle But that should not be a problem all the time .unless you have a gas leak SOMEWHERE, emptying the lines when /if the gas bottle is turned OFF.
IF the bottle has been left turned on you can rule that out.
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 1st of October 2014 03:28:04 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 1st of October 2014 03:29:08 PM
I think Cloak has come up with one good answer another could be that there is some other things disturbing the mixture of gas and primary air and it is having trouble lighting.
If you can get a blast of compressed air up the burner tube or conversely unravel the end of a piece of thin rope and twist it up the burner tube it may dislodge the obstruction (Spider web, fluff or dirt and dust).. then see if that fixes it..
HI
Ditto
Regular Gas explosion such as that are not something to ignore !!!
They can & do occur but are a warning that all is not right.
it could be:
[a] that the spark may not in the gas stream,
Requiring a build up of gas in the furnace tube before gas reaches the Spark [spark electrode dislodged due to vibration?]
the ignitor module may be faulity
[c]Another cause could be an obstruction to the gas flow diverting it away from the ignition spark
You could try lighting it then turning the gas OFF @ the bottle or the line stop valve
When it has burnt the gas out see if you can observe the ignition while it is trying to light
Does it have a nice strong blue arc JUMPING across the ELECTRODE tip/s ??
Once it does ,light does it have a full sized flame?
Re lighting after a bottle replacement can mean a delay in actual lighting for the FIRST time after replacing the bottle But that should not be a problem all the time .unless you have a gas leak SOMEWHERE, emptying the lines when /if the gas bottle is turned OFF.
IF the bottle has been left turned on you can rule that out.
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 1st of October 2014 03:28:04 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 1st of October 2014 03:29:08 PM
Peter are we trying to convert the average GN into an expert Hot Water service person or just be helpful with some general advice before they goto someone qualified to service the offending unit..
Any work on Gas appliances should be done by a qualified person and it is my opinion that only simple checks and tests should be advised that don't require the removal or adjustment of any of the equipment...
You would be the first to jump up and down if I were to post how to make a couple of electrical adapters that don't meet the standard and bypass some of the electrical safety equipment ..
