Dometic RM2350

valiant81 · Senior Member

Dometic RM2350

oldbobsbus · Guru

When I was the Electrolux service agent I found that caravan manufacturers failed to properly insulate the top and sides of the fridges they installed in their vans so the heat that is generated buy the system (remember an absorption fridge uses heat to create cold) was getting to the top and sides of the fridge and heating it instead of being dispersed away from the rear of the unit..
Installing fans like you have will certainly help so long as they are installed correctly and suck the heat out...

BUT

You need to have the manufacturer (Jayco) insulate the fridge so the heat cannot get to the sides and top and also improve the ventilation so the heat can get away..

OR
Replace the fridge under warranty with a unit to better suit your needs (Wishful thinking..lol.)

oldtrack123 · Guru

HI
Very,very few 3wayfridges are installed to Fridge makers instructions

Even though you have fitted fans they may not be working as well as they could

The aim is to get ALL the cooling air passing through the condenser fins
Usually the back of the fridge is so far from the van wall that most of the cooling air BYPASSES the Condenser
Also many vent the Boiler flue heat into the inside space ,further adding to the problem

You should tell JAYCO That you want the FRIDGE FULLY INSTALLED TO DOMETIC'S NSTRUCTIONS!!

That will include correct baffling , sealing around the fridge sides & top.,removal of any Dead air spaces above the rear of the fridge [again possibly with a CURVED baffle]
AND the correct rear vents to give an effective FLUE effect.!!

ONCE they do THAT the fans will be even moreeeffective!

PeterQ

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 30th of November 2013 11:55:42 AM

first timer · Senior Member

Hi Guy's

I am intersted in your comments re fridges not working. My fridge works very well on gas whilst stationary, but when traveling on 12 volt it may as well be turned off as it basically heat up to room temperature. I don't know but I feel there may be something wrong with the way the wiring has been done, although it works ok on 12v when stationary. Any thoughts anyone ?

Thanks

Ashley

ozjohn · Guru

Jayco generally do a fairly reasonable job installing fridges, but the RM2350 even when installed correctly is not worth a pinch of salt when the weather gets hot and even worse when combined with high humidity.
I being saying for years that the distributor shouldn't be allowed to import fridges that are clearly 'Not Fit For Purpose' in a hot country like ours.
Ozjohn.

oldtrack123 · Guru

first timer wrote:
Hi Guy's
I am intersted in your comments re fridges not working. My fridge works very well on gas whilst stationary, but when traveling on 12 volt it may as well be turned off as it basically heat up to room temperature. I don't know but I feel there may be something wrong with the way the wiring has been done, although it works ok on 12v when stationary. Any thoughts anyone ?
Thanks
Ashley

Hi Ashle

These words of yours give me some concern {Quote}" although it works ok on 12v when stationary. Any thoughts anyone ?]

A 3way should not be used on 12V unless the engine is running !!

If that is stuffed up WHO knows what else is not done right

But the biggest problem with 3ways on 12V is not getting full voltage due to losses in the cables [UNDERSIZED CABLES FOR THE LENGTH]

You could check the voltage that the fridge is getting at its 12V terminals WHILE the fridge is actually RUNNING ON 12V& the engine running at fast idle

IT SHOULD BE NO LESS THAN 12V, higher is better& if correctly wired I would EXPECT it to be higher

PeterQ

More details of Fridge model #, Cable run length from CRANK battery to fridge could allow more advice.

oldbobsbus · Guru

Hi Ashley,
12V on a 3 way fridge was only every designed to keep the fridge working while traveling, I will stand correcting but if I remember correctly if it was fitted with a 120w 240v element then it would be fitted with a 75w 12v element. The reason being to just hold the liquid in the tubes hot while traveling so it doesn't have a long heat up period once you switch back to 240v or gas and also reduce the power draw when it was on 12v..
You say it works perfectly on 12v while stationary so it means the element is good.
Depending on where the fridge is mounted and how much movement there is in the vehicle then that would have a bearing on the operation of it as too much bouncing around would cause the hot liquid at the back of the fridge to circulate into the internal tubes in the fridge.. also absorption fridges need to be reasonably level to work efficiently... as they use the hot fluid rises method of circulation..

Maybe someone else will have a better explanation but thats about all I can come up with..

oldtrack123 · Guru

oldbobsbus wrote:
Hi Ashley,
12V on a 3 way fridge was only every designed to keep the fridge working while traveling, I will stand correcting but if I remember correctly if it was fitted with a 120w 240v element then it would be fitted with a 75w 12v element. The reason being to just hold the liquid in the tubes hot while traveling so it doesn't have a long heat up period once you switch back to 240v or gas and also reduce the power draw when it was on 12v..
You say it works perfectly on 12v while stationary so it means the element is good.
Depending on where the fridge is mounted and how much movement there is in the vehicle then that would have a bearing on the operation of it as too much bouncing around would cause the hot liquid at the back of the fridge to circulate into the internal tubes in the fridge.. also absorption fridges need to be reasonably level to work efficiently... as they use the hot fluid rises method of circulation..

Maybe someone else will have a better explanation but thats about all I can come up with..

HI Bob

Your information is out of date

Many fridges NOW have Both elements very near the SAME wattage rating

SOME models are even thermostatically ciontrolled on 12V

Some models use a single 240V element for both 12V AND 240V operation

One NEEDS to KNOW the model # before being able to give more accurate advice

PeterQ

oldbobsbus · Guru

You always have to have the last say Peter..

You are always picking at everyone that offers an answer..

I was giving general advice about some of the reasons absorption fridges give problems but there is no doubt you know more than anyone else on this forum..

So I will leave you to it..

oldtrack123 · Guru

HI Bob
I think my posts are simply putting the right info forward
I do not pick on EVERYone that answers but when an answer I know is not correct I will point THAT out

I do not post ,just for the sake of posting !
When I post IT is on subjects ,I know

IF YOU have a problem with THAT ,THAT is your problem ,not mine

Perhaps you should look at the number of posts YOU have made in the SHORT time You have been on the forum.
156posts in SIX months=26posts per months av
You must have an answer for everything

My average is12posts per month since joining biggrin

PeterQ

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 30th of November 2013 07:46:29 PM

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 30th of November 2013 10:43:34 PM

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 30th of November 2013 10:47:37 PM

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 30th of November 2013 10:55:26 PM

KFT · Guru

think I might put some popcorn in the popper!

BruDi · Senior Member

We have a Dometic RM2553 in our current van and had the same in our previous van. Almost as soon as we got our current van we had the fridge wired to draw from the two large batteries in the caravan. We had the same thing done with our previous van and the difference in the working was amazing. Our fridge keeps everything cold whether it is on gas, 240V or 12V. The same was true of the previous fridge, but only after we had the change made. We travel with our fridge set on about 4, any higher and things freeze.

We didn't bother with the dealer but went straight to a 12V specialist; best thing we ever did. We'd do that again if we were to get another van. It's much cheaper than buying a new fridge.

Our first van was a Jayco and the fridge was hopeless. We just wish we had had the change made to that one.

We returned from a trip through Western Queensland, across the Savannah Way to Cooktown, along the Queensland coast and home. The fridge never missed a beat. Last year we went to Darwin and back and had the same success.

Di

valiant81 · Senior Member

Hi all;

Thanks all for the replys and help . One thing that i may have left out was that the problem has ONLY while we were up in the northern states and we were staying at caravan parks and pluged in to power while we were staying there for serveral days ( 10 days in Darwin, 3 days in Katherine and 5 days in kakado. And on all of those daystime this is were the fridge would fail. Yes the fridge was puting out plenty of heat from the little chimney and out of the top vent with the computer fans running 24/7. Best I could get out of the fridge would be 5~6 degrees and this would be in the morning and after it had been closed up all night. Even turning the fridge up to a higher setting did not help and even after a few days, the temp would not change, We even tryed to run on gas, as we thought gas would be more better.

Let's face it, all i have in the fridge is 2 Lts of water, eggs and a bit of bacon, apples and fruit, margerine, bread and a bit of cheese. So realy no big load on the fridge.

After loosing milk, fresh fish that had been caught 2 days before and other sunderys, we have lost the respect for these types of fridges.

All the rest of our food is kept in two 40 Lt Engle fridges that we keep in the back of my Pajero and pluged in to 240 Volt power. These fridges are set to to about -15 and the other fridge is kept at just about 1~2 degrees. Never a problem out of the Engles.

I have removed the top vent on the outside of my caravan and yes the deflector is in place and would deflect the heat out of the vent, so it seems that all is well in this respect.

We traveled up north in the cooler months ( May and June ) of this year and would hate to travel when the weather realy starts to get hot. We would thing that this fridge would have failed after crossing the boarder into SA.

Cruising Cruze · Guru

Beside the portable fridges what is a good replacement that will run just on 12 volt & 240 volt will fit in the place of the 3 way fridge

Cheers John

brian · Guru

If you are going to be using the fridge where you have no access to mains power, then you need to ensure that you have ample battery capacity and recharge ability to enable it to function long term. Once you have that battery capacity, a mains charger will keep the batteries charged when on power, and so the fridge can continue to run from the battery supply. There is no need for the fridge to have a separate 240v capability.

first timer · Senior Member

Hi again guy's.

Yes my fridge is a rm2350. Thanks everyone for your thoughts/comments regarding this I think I will have to have someone look at it, I have a feeling there's something not quite right somewhere. Ozjohn I am tending to agree with you that this model isn't worth a pinch of salt.

I think my next van I will go to 12/240v and be done with it. Our current van a windsor is only 14months old and has a 120w solar panel and a 120amp battery,so I think our next one will need an extra battery and perhaps another solar panel.

Anyway thanks everyone

Regards

Ashley

oldtrack123 · Guru

BruDi wrote:
We have a Dometic RM2553 in our current van and had the same in our previous van. Almost as soon as we got our current van we had the fridge wired to draw from the two large batteries in the caravan. We had the same thing done with our previous van and the difference in the working was amazing. Our fridge keeps everything cold whether it is on gas, 240V or 12V. The same was true of the previous fridge, but only after we had the change made. We travel with our fridge set on about 4, any higher and things freeze.
We didn't bother with the dealer but went straight to a 12V specialist; best thing we ever did. We'd do that again if we were to get another van. It's much cheaper than buying a new fridge.
Our first van was a Jayco and the fridge was hopeless. We just wish we had had the change made to that one.
We returned from a trip through Western Queensland, across the Savannah Way to Cooktown, along the Queensland coast and home. The fridge never missed a beat. Last year we went to Darwin and back and had the same success.
Di

HI Di

If your fridge works OK on 12V when connected to the house batteries{which is NOT A GOOD IDEA at all]& does not work ok when on 12V from the vehicle ,IT IS FOR ONE SIMPLE REASON!!

The wiring from the vehicle battery to the FRIDGE is TOO SMALL!!

POOR, BAD, INCORRET WIRING!!

But most 12V /Auto "electricians"? do not understand VOLTAGE drop due to current flow ,cable size, & run distance

IN fact, if wired correctly the fridge should get a better /higher voltage than 12V when connected to the vehicle with the engine running!!

Running A 3way fridge from the house batteries can have a number of consequences, but the main one is the house batteries will have problems in EVER being FULLY charged when driving!

EVEN IF A DC /DC charger is used!!

That is simple ELECTRICAL fact

If you want further info on that refer to the makers instructions which state the fridge SHOULD be connected by it's own circuit to the vehicle Battery.

PeterQ

SnowT · Guru

oldtrack123 wrote:

HI Di
If your fridge works OK on 12V when connected to the house batteries{which is NOT A GOOD IDEA at all]& does not work ok when on 12V from the vehicle ,IT IS FOR ONE SIMPLE REASON!!
The wiring from the vehicle battery to the FRIDGE is TOO SMALL!!
POOR, BAD, INCORRET WIRING!! I understand this bit to small a wire voltage drop..
But most 12V /Auto "electricians"? do not understand VOLTAGE drop due to current flow ,cable size, & run distance
IN fact, if wired correctly the fridge should get a better /higher voltage than 12V when connected to the vehicle with the engine running!!
Running A 3way fridge from the house batteries can have a number of consequences, but the main one is the house batteries will have problems in EVER being FULLY charged when driving!
EVEN IF A DC /DC charger is used!! This Bit, if 12V is Not Going to Fully charge the Batteries while Driving. Then What do you run the Fridge of while you Drive so you do get a Full[near] charge on your Battery.
That is simple ELECTRICAL fact
If you want further info on that refer to the makers instructions which state the fridge SHOULD be connected by it's own circuit to the vehicle Battery.

PeterQ

I know the concept of Cooling the Fridge/Freezer before you Leave Home, on 240vAC..

If your taking Frozen stuff with you, make sure it frozen before you go etc.. Less work the fridge freezer has to do upfront..[Only needs to maintain the chill]

- Took some steaks away one time, it took them 8hr's to thaw them out just so they could be cooked.. Dry Ice is a wonderful thing.. 10days later esky was still freezing Cold.

So yes the question How do you keep the fridge cold while on the Road.. ? - From the Car/Bus Batteries..?

Juergen

BruDi · Senior Member

Thanks for your thoughts Peter but actually the wiring from the car to the fridge was heavy duty in both instances. Our van batteries do fully charge when driving. The fridge works beautifully and we would do it again. The modification was not done by an auto electrician but as I said a company the specialises in 12 volt power solutions and supply.

Di

Ontos45 · Guru

oldtrack123 wrote:
BruDi wrote:
We have a Dometic RM2553 in our current van and had the same in our previous van. Almost as soon as we got our current van we had the fridge wired to draw from the two large batteries in the caravan. We had the same thing done with our previous van and the difference in the working was amazing. Our fridge keeps everything cold whether it is on gas, 240V or 12V. The same was true of the previous fridge, but only after we had the change made. We travel with our fridge set on about 4, any higher and things freeze.
We didn't bother with the dealer but went straight to a 12V specialist; best thing we ever did. We'd do that again if we were to get another van. It's much cheaper than buying a new fridge.
Our first van was a Jayco and the fridge was hopeless. We just wish we had had the change made to that one.
We returned from a trip through Western Queensland, across the Savannah Way to Cooktown, along the Queensland coast and home. The fridge never missed a beat. Last year we went to Darwin and back and had the same success.
Di

HI Di
If your fridge works OK on 12V when connected to the house batteries{which is NOT A GOOD IDEA at all]& does not work ok when on 12V from the vehicle ,IT IS FOR ONE SIMPLE REASON!!
The wiring from the vehicle battery to the FRIDGE is TOO SMALL!!
POOR, BAD, INCORRET WIRING!!
But most 12V /Auto "electricians"? do not understand VOLTAGE drop due to current flow ,cable size, & run distance
IN fact, if wired correctly the fridge should get a better /higher voltage than 12V when connected to the vehicle with the engine running!!
Running A 3way fridge from the house batteries can have a number of consequences, but the main one is the house batteries will have problems in EVER being FULLY charged when driving!
EVEN IF A DC /DC charger is used!!
That is simple ELECTRICAL fact
If you want further info on that refer to the makers instructions which state the fridge SHOULD be connected by it's own circuit to the vehicle Battery.

PeterQ

Had the same problem with 3 ways. Remember they have to be within 3-5 degrees of level compared to an electric only fridge at 30 degrees.

When I was chasing up information came across the following instructions. Hope the file attaches.

Peter

oldtrack123 · Guru

SnowT wrote:
EVEN IF A DC /DC charger is used!! This Bit, if 12V is Not Going to Fully charge the Batteries while Driving. Then What do you run the Fridge of while you Drive so you do get a Full[near] charge on your Battery.ies..?

Juergen

Hi J

You run the VAN batteries only from the DC /DC charger

You have the DC /DC charger as close as possible to the house batteries

You should have absolute minimal voltage drop betwen the DC /DC charger & the House batteries so the charger gets the right SOC condition of the battery

Failure to that can result in undercharged batteries

Any other loads on the Charger will:

[a]subtract from the available current to charge the battery

With a 20A charger,tThat could be as little as 5A

Do the maths subtract the 12V element draw of the fridge model concerned from the RATEd output of Charger

]b]The load of the fridge could give a significant error [due to cable VD]to the voltage the Charger actually monitors as SOC voltage

The degree of error will ALSO depend on where how the fridge & Charger are intercoonected

Running the fridge off the dc charger does give the fridge full voltage & correct THAT problem BUT it is a bodgy way of OVERCOMING the basic problemu[undersised cables]& leads to otherproblems

IT IS NOT FIXING the problem

Yet it is commonly recommended by some 12V "Specialist?"

IT IS A GOOD SALES opportunity for the gullable!

I wonder i

THE correct method for both the charger & the FRIDGE to work efficiently is :

[a]Follow Domeics instructions

Wire the fridge with cables calculated for a voltage drop not exceeding 1V when under load, CT, by it's own independent wiring DIRECT the the vehicle battery

Depending on fridge model ,an ignition operated relay or VSR control SHALL be used to prevent discharge of the start battery when engine is not running.

A Dc to Dc charger should not be used to simply overcome excess voltage drop in the feed cables to the house batteries

Usually you have limited power available from the alternator, loosing that power in the cables by them being undersized is simply a waste

Depending on the vehicle Alternator's max output voltage even a seperate DFIRECT connection to the house batteries can be a better proposition than a DC /DC charger

Especially if you heavily discharge the house batteries & then only drive for a short time

You may be limited by the charger output & NOT using the ALTERNATOR FULL AVAILABLE output to QUIKLY charge the batteries

Again that is why voltage drop cals are so important when designing the WHOLE system

PeterQ

SnowT · Guru

Got it..

Make sure that the cables are rated in such a way that you minimize the Voltage Drop..Get the full Voltage to the Appliance..

Which is so easy to do if you use the right cable's..

Juergen

KFT · Guru

My setup goes like this

I ran twin 16mm/2 cable to the back of the tub. in the tub is a bcdc1240 40 amp dc/dc charger. the 16 mm/2 cable feeds this charger which charges a pair of 40 a/h gel batteries connected in parallel. from those batteries another 16mm cable runs to the towbar where an Anderson plug allows me to connect the caravan.

the Anderson plug on the caravan has another 16mm/2 cable that runs direct to the house batteries. There is also 2 120w solar panels on the roof of the caravan connected to a Morningstar 30 amp solar controller.

the fridge in the van is a Dometic 4601 185 litre 3 way. the D+ wire is switched by a fridge switch. The fridge draws around 23 amps when running on 12 volt.
the fridge 12 volt load is connected to the house batteries.

max voltage drop as measured is 0.5 volts.

this setup works very well, my house batteries are always fully charged when I pull up for the night.

Why did I do it this way? because a connection direct to the crank battery would not work with a computer controlled alternator. the alternator had to be fooled into running at charging voltage by the bcdc1240 which also isolates the crank battery when the engine is shut down.

a very good mate of mine is an auto electrician who takes much pride in his workmanship and is also a keen caravanner and it was he who set this up for me.

conclusion: IT WORKS VERY WELL.

frank

oldtrack123 · Guru

HI Frank
I am not sure why you say your FRIDGE would not work with a computer contolled alternator
Such an alternator Normally still puts out around 13.2V
If the VD in the cables to the fridge is limited to 0.5V,12.7V should be more than ample for the Fridge to oprate as well as on the house batteries

It would be interesting to know what voltage you get from the D+ terminal of the alternator??
But you are correct , a computer controlled alternator will reduce the voltage below what could fully charge the house batteries by direct charging,especially with the extra voltage drop in the cables from crank battery to the house batteries
Your own figures indicate that only 17A is available for battery charging but since you only have 80Ahrs of battery capacity that would not be a problem IN YOUR CASE

IF those batteries were taken down to 50% SOC a 3hr drive alone would fully charge them
BUT if you had say 200Ahrs of battery capacity taken down to 50%SOC,You would have a different situation 100Ahrs / 17A =5.9hrs driving
But if the fridge is running from the alternator, AS IT SHOULD, the full output of the charger would be available to charge the house batteries

For those with small battery capacity & low daily use, it may appear to work well ,but the bigger the the battery charge required the worse it gets in engine run time

Those with a 20A charger may never get the batterroes charged

One other less detectable problem which can have an effect on battery life,
Due to load from the fridge holding the charger in BOOST mode
While they may be referred to as SMART chargers ,they cannot determine where the output current is going[they assume it all going to the battery
The batterries may be held too long at a voltage just under float [essentially OVERCHARGING them]

So as you can see what is good for the goose may not be good for the ganderor a case of horses for courses

Sorry but I simply cannot agree that such is a good idea or the CORRECT methodfor either the fridge or the house batteries

PS The Dc to dc charger does not fool the alternator into putting out more voltage,
it simply CONVERTS WATTS at a low voltage & high current into higherVOLTS at a lower curent PLUS CONVERSION LOSSES
eg :to get your 40A output at 14V you need to put in622W
divide by your 13.2V alternator voltage & the current draw from the alternator is 47.13A
BuUt is you have just a 0.5Vcable drop, the current draw is even higher622 /12.7V =48.97A drawing 22.5% more AMPS from the alternatotthan is going into charging the battery

Even with DCto Dc chargers adequate sized cables are required to limit losses.

PeterQ
Y

ozjohn · Guru

The OP commented about the RM2350 which is a 90Lt fridge which has a CEN 'ST' Climate rating and they're not worth a crumpet in anything but cool to moderate temperatures.

The RM2553 is a larger 150Lt fridge with a 'T' climate rating and if properly installed will function quite well in all but the severest of temperatures.

I've been screaming (To deaf ears) for years that they should not be allowed to import and/or install fridges that cannot maintain a cabinet temperature to Australian/NZ food storage standards. :evil:
Only when someone actually dies from food poisoning and a brave Coroner points the finger at an importer not supplying a product that's 'Fit for Purpose' and/or a van manufacturer who didn't install a fridge as per the installation information supplied with the fridge would we be likely to see any action from the Industry.
But don't keep your fingers crossed waiting for that to happen.
Cheers, OJ

BruDi · Senior Member

Peter, thanks for the manual. I've read through some of it and it sounds similar to the manual that came with the fridge.. It's a bit hard to check as our van is always kept in secure storage but I will have a look later. I think the electrical info is the plus in what you have sent.

Di

WAssa41 · Senior Member

The biggest problem with fridge cooling is to get the max amount of air past the cooling fins at the back of the fridge. Almost all fridge installations have a 50-80mm gap between the wall of the van and the cooling fins which allows the air to take the path of least resistance around the cooling fins. If you install a false wall to reduce the gap to say 5-10mm then almost all of the air will pass over the fins. Now the computer fans will help draw the cooler air pass the fins but be careful that the fans don,t move the air to quickly or it won,t pick up enough heat off the fins. I have installed a fan at the base of the fridge (through the floor)which draws air from under the van which is a lot cooler than from the bottom vent. I have traveled NT in the heat and the fridge has worked well, it does however work hard midday if the door is opened to many times and for to long.

Wassa

oldbobsbus · Guru

WAssa41 wrote:
The biggest problem with fridge cooling is to get the max amount of air past the cooling fins at the back of the fridge. Almost all fridge installations have a 50-80mm gap between the wall of the van and the cooling fins which allows the air to take the path of least resistance around the cooling fins. If you install a false wall to reduce the gap to say 5-10mm then almost all of the air will pass over the fins. Now the computer fans will help draw the cooler air pass the fins but be careful that the fans don,t move the air to quickly or it won,t pick up enough heat off the fins. I have installed a fan at the base of the fridge (through the floor)which draws air from under the van which is a lot cooler than from the bottom vent. I have traveled NT in the heat and the fridge has worked well, it does however work hard midday if the door is opened to many times and for to long.
Wassa

That is good advice so long as the air that is being circulated isn't finding its way to the sides and top of the fridge it needs to have as little as possible restriction to escape to atmosphere...

ALSO

Rule of thumb..... Everytime you open the door of an absorption fridge it takes 2 hours to recover and if you keep it open for any length of time it takes longer..

Also consider filling any spare space in it with inflated wine cask bladders as that stops the cold air from being replaced with hot air..

Bottles of water kept in there when space is available help to keep them cold as well

rockylizard · Guru

Gday...

I have been reading this thread with great interest and intrigue.

I have a Dometic RM7851L - came with the van which is now nearly six years old. I have always had a thermometer in the fridge to keep tabs on how it is going. Except when the ambient gets above 35degC it works very well. The fridge cabinet remains between 5DegC and 6degC and only begins to gasp when the ambient exceeds 35degC. For example last year at Normanton the ambient was 39-42degC for 12 days straight with minimums overnight of only 22-24degC. It hovered around 13degC during the day and got down to about 8degC overnight - and that was under shade trees running on 240v. During those 12 days nothing in the freezer defrosted - not even partially.

The comment "Rule of thumb..... Everytime you open the door of an absorption fridge it takes 2 hours to recover and if you keep it open for any length of time it takes longer.." surprised me. The thermometer shows 5DegC when I open the door ... I just take out the milk or marg and that is the only time open - when I check thermometer when I put the milk/marg back (probably 30secs later) the temp is still on 5degC - no loss of temp according to the thermometer.

When cooking me tucker of a night for instance, over the space of 15 mins or so the door is opened and closed fairly often and the temp rises to about 7degC. After I have eaten (lets say 20mins later) and I get the milk out AGAIN for me cuppa the temp is already back down to 5DegC.

The point of all this is that it certainly appears that absorption fridges operate at a wide variety of performance levels. Probably dependent on the actual model and how it has been installed - size of wiring, placement and insulation, allowance for air flow etc etc.

I try to never have the fridge side of the van facing north so that it gets a minimum of sun on that side to help the fridge. Maybe that helps in my case. Who knows cry hmm

Cheers - John

ozjohn · Guru

Hiya John.
The RM7851L, is that one of the models with the curved doors? (I'm to lazy to look it up).
If it is, then it only has a 'ST' rating, and as you say it struggles over around 35c.
The 'T' rated models are far superior at high temperatures.
Although the 'ST' rated fridges are tested to 38c, that's when they're 100% correctly installed (In the factory) where the temperature can be controlled.
In a real world situation the cavity temperature inside the vans cladding could be well in excess of the test tempertures.
Cheers, Ozjohn.